steering adjustment

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doggggboy

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Nov 16, 2006
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Full forward with both levers on my LS160 gives me an annoying gradual right turn. What do I adjust to straighten out and where do I find it? Please don't tell me I have to raise the cab. That looks like it would be a pain.
 

Tazza

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When you let go of the levers do you sit still? if so, it may just be motor/pump wear. If you move when the sticks are in the center position it will be adjustment.
 

doggggboy

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When you let go of the levers do you sit still? if so, it may just be motor/pump wear. If you move when the sticks are in the center position it will be adjustment.
I sit still. There is no creeeping. It just seems that with both sticks in full forward the left stick goes a little farther forward causing me to go in a slow right hand turn. It's no problem when I am working but when I try to get from here to there over a long distance it's annoying. I don't know if they are all like this but with the 160 you can push both sticks forward and then let one go but continue to go straight. It is much less fatigueing being able to release one of the sticks.
 

Tazza

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I sit still. There is no creeeping. It just seems that with both sticks in full forward the left stick goes a little farther forward causing me to go in a slow right hand turn. It's no problem when I am working but when I try to get from here to there over a long distance it's annoying. I don't know if they are all like this but with the 160 you can push both sticks forward and then let one go but continue to go straight. It is much less fatigueing being able to release one of the sticks.
This would be a good one for Ken, he has an LS160.
It may have some stops that you can adjust to prevent over travel.
 

NHDealer

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Jan 16, 2007
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This would be a good one for Ken, he has an LS160.
It may have some stops that you can adjust to prevent over travel.
At the bottom of your control stick will be four bolts loosen those and adjust to compensate for the over-steer. Just make sure there is no creep in the drive train at idle as others have said.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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At the bottom of your control stick will be four bolts loosen those and adjust to compensate for the over-steer. Just make sure there is no creep in the drive train at idle as others have said.
I have not had to touch mine yet, still blissfully ignorant. I know my 853 has a stopper for the lever so you can manually limit lever movement. So its not unusual to need such an adjustment.
I would also even up your tire inflation and measure their circumfrance with a string to rule out tire wear or defects.
Regards
Ken
 

doggggboy

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At the bottom of your control stick will be four bolts loosen those and adjust to compensate for the over-steer. Just make sure there is no creep in the drive train at idle as others have said.
We have a winner! NHDealer was right on about simply moving the plate at the bottom of the stick. Ya gotta love fixes you can do from the driver's seat. Thanks all.
 

heatpumpproducts

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Jan 4, 2008
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Now aren't you glad you didn't just live with it? :)
Ken
i have a L565 that CREEPS at nutral , handle released and straight up and also moves to the right when full forward. the emergency brake leaver is missing it release buton and is very stiff to move . the machine will roll on a grade when not running (clunky)like the tires have flat spots . but the big problem is it has will CREEP forward at idell not much fun when testing things with the engine running out side the drivers seat or ropps. what does the service/run switch alow me to do ,,,very green -first timer , but like to learn . i don't understand the warning lights one the panel any budy have a diagram . is it possible to warm hydro oil 10/30 heavy height is thick at -10 to -30 cel any sugestionns. as well as the fuel .
 

mllud

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Jun 29, 2007
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i have a L565 that CREEPS at nutral , handle released and straight up and also moves to the right when full forward. the emergency brake leaver is missing it release buton and is very stiff to move . the machine will roll on a grade when not running (clunky)like the tires have flat spots . but the big problem is it has will CREEP forward at idell not much fun when testing things with the engine running out side the drivers seat or ropps. what does the service/run switch alow me to do ,,,very green -first timer , but like to learn . i don't understand the warning lights one the panel any budy have a diagram . is it possible to warm hydro oil 10/30 heavy height is thick at -10 to -30 cel any sugestionns. as well as the fuel .
a Way to warm Hyd. oil is to bring your bucket back and let the relife valve open and circulate some fluid. Your steering linkage needs adjustment. Raise your seat and work your levers.The idea is to get the linkage adjusted so the lever on the pumps is centered when your control sticks are centered at rest.An operators manual shows this in detail. New holland has several manuals for each machine.Get the operators manual first. Call 1800-635-4913. I think its about 75dollars. Great Investment. Mike
 

Tazza

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a Way to warm Hyd. oil is to bring your bucket back and let the relife valve open and circulate some fluid. Your steering linkage needs adjustment. Raise your seat and work your levers.The idea is to get the linkage adjusted so the lever on the pumps is centered when your control sticks are centered at rest.An operators manual shows this in detail. New holland has several manuals for each machine.Get the operators manual first. Call 1800-635-4913. I think its about 75dollars. Great Investment. Mike
I don't know how to set neutral but the clunking you feel when the machine is on a grade is totally normal. Its internal leakage inside the hydraulic motors, the machine will clunk as the motor slowly moves internally. You really should have a park brake, you may need to talk with your dealer to get the needed parts!.
 

heatpumpproducts

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Jan 4, 2008
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I don't know how to set neutral but the clunking you feel when the machine is on a grade is totally normal. Its internal leakage inside the hydraulic motors, the machine will clunk as the motor slowly moves internally. You really should have a park brake, you may need to talk with your dealer to get the needed parts!.
change the bearings all six , in the controle linkage controle leaver, the first one 1.5hrs the next 5 , 15 min .after a saw that the arms could come right out of the machine with six bolts on each arm . i love how easy this machine is to work on , i a novist but i am gaining ground dayly.
i decided to change these bearings becouse of the side to side loseness that seem to make the piston pumps hum . from thier own weight . just a slite movement left or right seem to stop it.
and some one also replaced the two guides the fit under the spring plate that sit above the piston pumps with u - bolts , that alowd the plate to flex or twist when the stick was pulled or pushed . the new guides where cheap , thanks to the people at messicks.com , i was able to really study the parts to see what i was locking for be for i just past it up as normal.
 
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