Hi, I want to change the hydraulic oil in my '93 743B and the book says I need API class SE 10w-30 motor oil. Does it specifically need to me SE rated(?), I am having a hard time finding the SE rating. Any recommendations on what type and brand oils you guys use>? Aslo, does anyone know the price for the Bobcat oil per gallon or qrt or whatever it comes in?? THANKS!
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Any engine oil will do the trick. I used to run castrol RX super 15W40 (diesel engine grade)but it got a little expensive. I then started using a cheap 20W50 which works a treat too. Just use a nice and cheap engine oil in the 10W30 to 20W50 range.After doing some more research I found out that SE oil is obsolete. The way it look I need SM, SL or SJ rated oil (current ratings). Maybe I am being to picky, what do you guys use? Thanks.
Ok thanks that sounds good. I know you can only really empty the hydraulic tank which is 3.5 gallons of the 6 gallons that the system holds, so will the the regular engine oil mix with the bobcat hydro fluid that will be partially left in it (2.5 gal)? Thank you.Any engine oil will do the trick. I used to run castrol RX super 15W40 (diesel engine grade)but it got a little expensive. I then started using a cheap 20W50 which works a treat too. Just use a nice and cheap engine oil in the 10W30 to 20W50 range.
Personally i drain my oil by running the machine at idle and using the aux hydraulics. You will get a little air in the system but you get as much oil out as possible. Just add a bit to the tank and run the machine a bit then re-dump that then top back up. These simply is no way to get all the oil out of the machine short of pulling all the rams hoses and pumps out (which i have done before). The best you can do is drain as much as possible.Ok thanks that sounds good. I know you can only really empty the hydraulic tank which is 3.5 gallons of the 6 gallons that the system holds, so will the the regular engine oil mix with the bobcat hydro fluid that will be partially left in it (2.5 gal)? Thank you.
As for oil quantities, i really am not sure.
Well I went and bought 10w-30 Super Tech. (made by valvoline) The oil in there was dark brown and smelled off/old. Also changed out they hydro filter with an NAPA gold. I just used a transfer pump to get the 3.5 gallons out of the hydro tank. Seems to run smoother, probably just mental.lol.Personally i drain my oil by running the machine at idle and using the aux hydraulics. You will get a little air in the system but you get as much oil out as possible. Just add a bit to the tank and run the machine a bit then re-dump that then top back up. These simply is no way to get all the oil out of the machine short of pulling all the rams hoses and pumps out (which i have done before). The best you can do is drain as much as possible.
As for oil quantities, i really am not sure.
Dark brown and smelly isn't good, whats the bet it has never been replaced? If i were you, i'd run the machine a bit to get the fresh oil moving around and suck the oil out again and replace it. You would have still had old oil in your cylinders/pumps/motors which will have now been mostly replaced with the fresh oil you just put in. You don't need to do it, but that way you know its done and you don't need to do it for another 1000 hours.Well I went and bought 10w-30 Super Tech. (made by valvoline) The oil in there was dark brown and smelled off/old. Also changed out they hydro filter with an NAPA gold. I just used a transfer pump to get the 3.5 gallons out of the hydro tank. Seems to run smoother, probably just mental.lol.
Glad it seems to run better.
oh i'm sure that the oil has never been replaced- 3650 hrs. What gets me is that it the secondary air filter said 1993 on it and it is a '93 model- got it replaced though. I will look into swaping the hydro oil after i put a few more hrs on it again. I guess you cant believe people when they say they do all the maintence. I've cleaned the clogged radiator, changed the anti-freeze, fuel filter, air filters, engine oil and filter, put grease zerks in that were missing, hydro oil and filter, filled chain case to proper level, adjusted steering linkage. So i am getting there being i have no service records of when or if anything was done. But there is no slop in anything and it fires right up almost with out glow plugging it and runns and operates perfectly. Thanks.Dark brown and smelly isn't good, whats the bet it has never been replaced? If i were you, i'd run the machine a bit to get the fresh oil moving around and suck the oil out again and replace it. You would have still had old oil in your cylinders/pumps/motors which will have now been mostly replaced with the fresh oil you just put in. You don't need to do it, but that way you know its done and you don't need to do it for another 1000 hours.
Glad it seems to run better.
The dealer here in New Orleans gave me a copy of a service bulletin from Bobcat about two years or more ago that stated that motor oil should no longer be used in the hydraulic tanks of Bobcat equipment and that Bobcat hydraulic oil should be used , I can tell you from past experiences that any quality type hydraulic oil is the way to go over motor oil , it's much cheaper to start with and the motor oil is too thick and has additives in it now days that are not good for the seals and components as per Bobcats bulletin , if you work in colder climates problems with hydraulic senders giving false signals does occur on some models , 12 years ago I worked as a service manger of an equipment rental company for 12 years which had a Bobcat inventory of 50 or more at all times , not counting other brands and we used hydraulic oil longer in place of motor oil in all our machines that called for motor oil in the hydraulics before it was sanctioned by Bobcat and failure from oil related issues were practically none existance , use what you feel best with but Bobcat doesn't recommend motor oil any more , I am going to try and get another copy of that service bulletin and post it for you'lloh i'm sure that the oil has never been replaced- 3650 hrs. What gets me is that it the secondary air filter said 1993 on it and it is a '93 model- got it replaced though. I will look into swaping the hydro oil after i put a few more hrs on it again. I guess you cant believe people when they say they do all the maintence. I've cleaned the clogged radiator, changed the anti-freeze, fuel filter, air filters, engine oil and filter, put grease zerks in that were missing, hydro oil and filter, filled chain case to proper level, adjusted steering linkage. So i am getting there being i have no service records of when or if anything was done. But there is no slop in anything and it fires right up almost with out glow plugging it and runns and operates perfectly. Thanks.
I'd like to see that too. When i got my first skidsteer in 2003 i spoke to the resident bobcat expert from my local dealer, he told me to use engine oil.The dealer here in New Orleans gave me a copy of a service bulletin from Bobcat about two years or more ago that stated that motor oil should no longer be used in the hydraulic tanks of Bobcat equipment and that Bobcat hydraulic oil should be used , I can tell you from past experiences that any quality type hydraulic oil is the way to go over motor oil , it's much cheaper to start with and the motor oil is too thick and has additives in it now days that are not good for the seals and components as per Bobcats bulletin , if you work in colder climates problems with hydraulic senders giving false signals does occur on some models , 12 years ago I worked as a service manger of an equipment rental company for 12 years which had a Bobcat inventory of 50 or more at all times , not counting other brands and we used hydraulic oil longer in place of motor oil in all our machines that called for motor oil in the hydraulics before it was sanctioned by Bobcat and failure from oil related issues were practically none existance , use what you feel best with but Bobcat doesn't recommend motor oil any more , I am going to try and get another copy of that service bulletin and post it for you'll
I do understand that late model machines must use Bobcats oil for warranty.
Hi, thanks for the info, the only real reason I didnt put bobcat oil in it is because I called them up with the bobcat part # out of my manual; they did not have this part # but they had a new part number for the oil that they are putting in the new bobcats. Not knowing what this new oil was, I stuck with the service manual use of 10w-30. Let me know what you guys find out, The bobcat oil is $3.35/qrt vs. about $1.75 per qrt. of valvoline. Hopefully my 10w-30 will work out. The book shows it working down to 0 degrees F for 10w-30. Let me know if I should swap all my oil again. Thanks!I'd like to see that too. When i got my first skidsteer in 2003 i spoke to the resident bobcat expert from my local dealer, he told me to use engine oil.
I do understand that late model machines must use Bobcats oil for warranty.
I think you will be fine with the oil you got in it , but in the furture you can save a lot of money and still be with in the specs --------didn't get by the dealer today for a service bulletin , but wrote it down on my parts list , The reason I am down on motor oil in the hydraulic tank is mainly price , good quality motor oil is at $3.00 per quart around here nowdays , a five gallon bucket of Bobcat hydraulic oil goes for $72.00 which works out to $3.60 per quart , I can get hydraulic oil for $23.99 for 5 gallons , which is $1.20 per quartHi, thanks for the info, the only real reason I didnt put bobcat oil in it is because I called them up with the bobcat part # out of my manual; they did not have this part # but they had a new part number for the oil that they are putting in the new bobcats. Not knowing what this new oil was, I stuck with the service manual use of 10w-30. Let me know what you guys find out, The bobcat oil is $3.35/qrt vs. about $1.75 per qrt. of valvoline. Hopefully my 10w-30 will work out. The book shows it working down to 0 degrees F for 10w-30. Let me know if I should swap all my oil again. Thanks!
