Salvage value for a 743B

[Jeffscarstrucks]

Hi, New here but I am learning a lot! I am looking at an older 743B that is rough and rusty but is supposed to run. I do all of my own everything so this little machine doesn't worry me but I am trying to figure what the worst case price should be. I am figuring that the engine and mechanicals do work but barely. Any ideas would be great...this is not much info to go on but it is all I have for now. Thanks in advance, JEFF

 

[Tazza]

The pumps and motor is the expensive bit. If it starts and drives you are pretty safe. All the other bits can be worked on. Give it a test and see for your self. Make sure the engine is stone cold. That way you will get an idea on how the compression is.

 

[Jeffscarstrucks]

The pumps and motor is the expensive bit. If it starts and drives you are pretty safe. All the other bits can be worked on. Give it a test and see for your self. Make sure the engine is stone cold. That way you will get an idea on how the compression is.

Thanks, This is a friend of a friend kind of deal and I have looked it over but can never seem to come up with a key. I am going to pursue it 'till the end. I am really trying to figure out what it is worth running or not running. My first step tommorrow is to the dealer to check the serial number to make sure that it is not "to good" of a deal.Jeff P.S. I have learned a lot by just searching and reading various topics on this forum so thanks to all!

 

[Tazza]

Thanks, This is a friend of a friend kind of deal and I have looked it over but can never seem to come up with a key. I am going to pursue it 'till the end. I am really trying to figure out what it is worth running or not running. My first step tommorrow is to the dealer to check the serial number to make sure that it is not "to good" of a deal.Jeff P.S. I have learned a lot by just searching and reading various topics on this forum so thanks to all!

HE HE
Well, if there is no key, thats not a big deal, you can easily hot wire it.
The 743B should have an electric shut down solenoid, you may need to hold the lever in place with say a rubber band or wedge something in there to hold the stop lever in the run position.
With that sorted, hook one end of the jumping cable to the glow plug rail and connect the other to the +ve battery terminal. With that in place let it warm for say 15-20 seconds and use a screwdriver to bridge the small connector on the starter to the +ve cable just above it. You will see a small wire attached to this terminal. It should burst into life. When its running remove the cable to the battery and glow plug rail.
I have started mine like this a few times when i still hadn't hooked up the wirng harness. Just don't leave the glow plugs running too long. No more than say 60 seconds. It should only need a max of 30 to start depending in the temperature outside.
If you need more info just yell! i know far too much about 743's.......

 

[skidsteer.ca]

HE HE
Well, if there is no key, thats not a big deal, you can easily hot wire it.
The 743B should have an electric shut down solenoid, you may need to hold the lever in place with say a rubber band or wedge something in there to hold the stop lever in the run position.
With that sorted, hook one end of the jumping cable to the glow plug rail and connect the other to the +ve battery terminal. With that in place let it warm for say 15-20 seconds and use a screwdriver to bridge the small connector on the starter to the +ve cable just above it. You will see a small wire attached to this terminal. It should burst into life. When its running remove the cable to the battery and glow plug rail.
I have started mine like this a few times when i still hadn't hooked up the wirng harness. Just don't leave the glow plugs running too long. No more than say 60 seconds. It should only need a max of 30 to start depending in the temperature outside.
If you need more info just yell! i know far too much about 743's.......

I see people pay 2 to 3 k (sometimes more) for ones that are in terrible shape and don't run just to part them out.
Sometimes I get guys bugging me for a 5k loader in good condition and I tell them good luck with that. Maybe if it not a bobcat and 15+ years old. 3 to 5 k is going price for any diesel parts machines in my experience.
Ken

 

[Jeffscarstrucks]

I see people pay 2 to 3 k (sometimes more) for ones that are in terrible shape and don't run just to part them out.
Sometimes I get guys bugging me for a 5k loader in good condition and I tell them good luck with that. Maybe if it not a bobcat and 15+ years old. 3 to 5 k is going price for any diesel parts machines in my experience.
Ken

Thanks Guys, This will help a bunch. I should get a chance to look it over again in the next couple of days and try to start it. I am hoping to buy it as quick as I can as it will be a killer deal the way it sounds. I always try to buy at the "worst case" price because sometimes the junk I find really is as bad as it looks. Once again, Thanks, JEFF P.S. I will let you know if I get it bought.

 

[Idoitall]

Thanks Guys, This will help a bunch. I should get a chance to look it over again in the next couple of days and try to start it. I am hoping to buy it as quick as I can as it will be a killer deal the way it sounds. I always try to buy at the "worst case" price because sometimes the junk I find really is as bad as it looks. Once again, Thanks, JEFF P.S. I will let you know if I get it bought.

Jeff. I'm always watching some machines on Ebay, so I asked it search for Bobcats and fire. Two machines came up. The 1st was a complete burnout that has just sat around and the guy wants it gone. It's a big rust bucket. Even at the low $350 bids, I can't much worth salvaging except for scrap metal, which might be 3-4000 lb. The 2nd is a 2000 773 with a "cab" fire. It looked bad to me, but then I don't know a lot about them, especially one burned. His opening bid is $6000, with a buy it now at $7500. Seems like a lot to me.

 

[Tazza]

Jeff. I'm always watching some machines on Ebay, so I asked it search for Bobcats and fire. Two machines came up. The 1st was a complete burnout that has just sat around and the guy wants it gone. It's a big rust bucket. Even at the low $350 bids, I can't much worth salvaging except for scrap metal, which might be 3-4000 lb. The 2nd is a 2000 773 with a "cab" fire. It looked bad to me, but then I don't know a lot about them, especially one burned. His opening bid is $6000, with a buy it now at $7500. Seems like a lot to me.

I saw that burn out, you never know there may be parts that can still be used. The rams should be ok still, the oil cooler may be ok too. The motor covers will be toast but the head and block may still be ok. The pumps are un-known, there is no real ppath for oxygen to get in there to give a really intense fire. The pump may just need a set of seals.
With that said, you would only buy it for parts! It would cost you far too much to repair. My 743 that had an engine bay fire ended up costing me the best part of 11K to fully restore. Plus an awful lot of time!!!! Radiator was 600 (1,400 brand new), fan shroud was 400 odd. Engine was about 1,800 (5-6k new) Thats just a few items you will need to get her going again!. Then gauges/instrument panel/seat/bushings.
If i lived over there i would probably take a stab at it just for parts.

 

[Jeffscarstrucks]

I saw that burn out, you never know there may be parts that can still be used. The rams should be ok still, the oil cooler may be ok too. The motor covers will be toast but the head and block may still be ok. The pumps are un-known, there is no real ppath for oxygen to get in there to give a really intense fire. The pump may just need a set of seals.
With that said, you would only buy it for parts! It would cost you far too much to repair. My 743 that had an engine bay fire ended up costing me the best part of 11K to fully restore. Plus an awful lot of time!!!! Radiator was 600 (1,400 brand new), fan shroud was 400 odd. Engine was about 1,800 (5-6k new) Thats just a few items you will need to get her going again!. Then gauges/instrument panel/seat/bushings.
If i lived over there i would probably take a stab at it just for parts.

I have noticed that most people refer to replacing the engine when needed. Is there a reason that no one goes through the one they have or are these small diesels just throw away units. I am sorry if this is a dumb question but I am used to some larger equipment and I also do some drag car stuff so maybe it is just a frame of mind. I also looked at E-bay but I am too new to recognize what is worth what (exept for the extremes) so I really appreciate your comments. Thanks again, Jeff

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I have noticed that most people refer to replacing the engine when needed. Is there a reason that no one goes through the one they have or are these small diesels just throw away units. I am sorry if this is a dumb question but I am used to some larger equipment and I also do some drag car stuff so maybe it is just a frame of mind. I also looked at E-bay but I am too new to recognize what is worth what (exept for the extremes) so I really appreciate your comments. Thanks again, Jeff

These Kubota engines can be exchanged for @ 3200.00 If you did all the leg work yourself likely 500 to 1000 less. Most people consider 5000 hours the life, Not 10000 like many of the larger diesels. And depending on the application many loaders have consideable wear in 4000 to 5000 hours too. Anything on them can be rebuilt. I don't know if they are sleeved or if you just bore them. If there are not sleeved the block can only be bored once likely, then they would have to be sleeved.
Good looking 743's are worth @ 7 or 8K + or-
Most diesel bobcat never dip much below this if they still run and don't appear to be on there last legs. It really does come down to how much work it needs to become a good loader again.
If the cost is higher then buying a good one, then fixing may not be the right thing, especially if you may want to sell again sometime.
But if you plan to keep it a long while and it will meet you needs, then you might be more inclined just to pick one and fix what it needs so it will work for you or give it a total overhaul so you know its good. As long as you keep it you can be sure you will get your money back out of it with a little care and maintenane. Selling and recovering your dollars can be a bit tougher though.
As for the hours though thats only a guide line. look how much slack the loader pins have and that will give you a good idea as to how long and or hard of life it has already had. (note bucket dump cylinder pins are the first to go, expect 1/4" of slack by 3000 hours. If its 3/4" it has done some hard work or never seen any grease.
Will the boom and bucket stay up or do they leak down in a few minutes. Blowby and cold starting of the engine, bent loader arms with non factory welds, bent cab, back door etc all give you a idea of how its life was.
Ken

 

[Tazza]

These Kubota engines can be exchanged for @ 3200.00 If you did all the leg work yourself likely 500 to 1000 less. Most people consider 5000 hours the life, Not 10000 like many of the larger diesels. And depending on the application many loaders have consideable wear in 4000 to 5000 hours too. Anything on them can be rebuilt. I don't know if they are sleeved or if you just bore them. If there are not sleeved the block can only be bored once likely, then they would have to be sleeved.
Good looking 743's are worth @ 7 or 8K + or-
Most diesel bobcat never dip much below this if they still run and don't appear to be on there last legs. It really does come down to how much work it needs to become a good loader again.
If the cost is higher then buying a good one, then fixing may not be the right thing, especially if you may want to sell again sometime.
But if you plan to keep it a long while and it will meet you needs, then you might be more inclined just to pick one and fix what it needs so it will work for you or give it a total overhaul so you know its good. As long as you keep it you can be sure you will get your money back out of it with a little care and maintenane. Selling and recovering your dollars can be a bit tougher though.
As for the hours though thats only a guide line. look how much slack the loader pins have and that will give you a good idea as to how long and or hard of life it has already had. (note bucket dump cylinder pins are the first to go, expect 1/4" of slack by 3000 hours. If its 3/4" it has done some hard work or never seen any grease.
Will the boom and bucket stay up or do they leak down in a few minutes. Blowby and cold starting of the engine, bent loader arms with non factory welds, bent cab, back door etc all give you a idea of how its life was.
Ken

Like Ken said, the V1702 is FULLY re-conditionable. They run a dry liner so you machine the old one out and press a new one in and bore it out. The centre mains/big ends/thrust washers are all available under size. Pistons are really only available std as you install new sleeves. I think you can get genuine ones that are OS but the price between them and non-genuine ones is insane.
I rebuilt mine and cost me 1,000 AUD in parts, that was with free machining though. Plus 400 for the injector pump and injectors got new nozzles.
The main problem is the head. They crack easily with too much heat/loss of coolant. They will slug you a core charge if its cracked.