S250 Electrical problem

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simz

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Apr 15, 2007
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I have a 2005 S250 that will not start. The key does nothing when turned. When I turn the key the hour meter does not light and the glow plug indicator does not come on, it is toitally dead. I do have power to the headlights, when I turn them on the hour meter displays. A friend tested the battery and I have a good 13 volts. When he tested there was only 2.7 at the control panel by the key. Is that correct, does anyone have any suggestions before I spend a fortune at the dealership. Does it sound like that panel itself? Thanks Mike
 

simz

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Apr 15, 2007
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Check all fuses
I know this sounds crazy but I could not find one single fuse on the machine. I pulled both the side and center panels off (overhead) and there were none. I lifted the cab and also checked the motor compartment. Could you give me an idea where to find them please. Thanks Mike
 

skidsteer.ca

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I know this sounds crazy but I could not find one single fuse on the machine. I pulled both the side and center panels off (overhead) and there were none. I lifted the cab and also checked the motor compartment. Could you give me an idea where to find them please. Thanks Mike
Is there a oval metal cover below the front of the seat about 1/2 way down held on by 2 screws. Thats where the fuses are on my 00 773 G
Ken
 

MrBobcat

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Apr 10, 2007
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Is there a oval metal cover below the front of the seat about 1/2 way down held on by 2 screws. Thats where the fuses are on my 00 773 G
Ken
Check all the relays and fuses under the cover below the seat. They have been know to become loose or dislodged.
 

simz

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Apr 15, 2007
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Check all the relays and fuses under the cover below the seat. They have been know to become loose or dislodged.
I did find the panel under the seat and checked the 5 relays and the fuses, they were all good. I appreciate all the help hear and will listen some other ideas if you have any. Thanks Mike
 

sar4937

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Jun 28, 2005
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I did find the panel under the seat and checked the 5 relays and the fuses, they were all good. I appreciate all the help hear and will listen some other ideas if you have any. Thanks Mike
You own it right? There's is no security setup? My S185 can even be set up to disable using gps when removed from it's location. Even if it has a key instead of a keypad I know guys that have hidden a disconnect since all keys are identical.
 

simz

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You own it right? There's is no security setup? My S185 can even be set up to disable using gps when removed from it's location. Even if it has a key instead of a keypad I know guys that have hidden a disconnect since all keys are identical.
I have only owned it for a couple of months, I purchased it used and was told it came from an aluminum recycling plant (which I believe from all the crushed nams I have found in it). I am going to try and test all the wires I guess.
 

skidsteer.ca

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I have only owned it for a couple of months, I purchased it used and was told it came from an aluminum recycling plant (which I believe from all the crushed nams I have found in it). I am going to try and test all the wires I guess.
You swapped your relays for ones that were known to be good?
Take your 12 v test light and check the power wire to be sure they are all conducting current.
have someone turn the key and see if one of the small wires on the starter is get power from the key to activated the soliniod.
Ken
 

simz

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I have only owned it for a couple of months, I purchased it used and was told it came from an aluminum recycling plant (which I believe from all the crushed nams I have found in it). I am going to try and test all the wires I guess.
I purchased one new relay and tried that in each space one at a time, no change. I also removed the fuses that were in there and tested them, they were all good. I tested the hot to the battery and also the one going to the "block" located above the battery and they were over 12 volts. The line coming out of that "block" was also over 12. My friend tested the continuity of the switch and said that was fine. The headlights work and the cigarrette style plug has power. We unplugged the the harness going into the display that shows the glow plug indicator and only found one slow with any power, that only had about 2.7 volts. Thanks Mike
 

skidsteer.ca

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I purchased one new relay and tried that in each space one at a time, no change. I also removed the fuses that were in there and tested them, they were all good. I tested the hot to the battery and also the one going to the "block" located above the battery and they were over 12 volts. The line coming out of that "block" was also over 12. My friend tested the continuity of the switch and said that was fine. The headlights work and the cigarrette style plug has power. We unplugged the the harness going into the display that shows the glow plug indicator and only found one slow with any power, that only had about 2.7 volts. Thanks Mike
Did the key switch have power coming into it?
It should power up one addional post when switched to on and another one when turned to crank. The post that goes to “power” when the key is turned to “crank” should send its power to one of the small wires on the starter solinoid to engage the starter.
Ken
 

simz

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Apr 15, 2007
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Did the key switch have power coming into it?
It should power up one addional post when switched to on and another one when turned to crank. The post that goes to “power” when the key is turned to “crank” should send its power to one of the small wires on the starter solinoid to engage the starter.
Ken
When I checked the harness going to the display (panel with key and warning lights) I could not get more than 5 volts. There was only 1 post in the plug with any power. Where the ignition (key) plugs into the display I was getting under 1 volt on one of the prongs. I checked the relays and I am getting 12 volts at the fuse panel for every relay slot. Mike
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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Alot of the curcuits on that machine run on 6-8 volts not 12 volts , did you check the ground cable where it attaches to bellhousing under the starter , have seen that was the problem a few times , is the screen dim and hard to read as that is a classic tell tale of a bad ground , if not the ground I would think it's the controll panel which is about $650 as I changed one Friday past , I would also look at the big screw together wire connector under the back of the cab , have seen corrsion in that plug before ------------another starting problem I seen on that machine is if it has the auxillary wiring harness on top of the quick couples and the harness is plug in on top the battery and the wire gets smashed and shorts out on top the couplers it will stop you from starting but usually will give you the code of multiple key switch error which if I remember is a something like 64-48
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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1,698
Alot of the curcuits on that machine run on 6-8 volts not 12 volts , did you check the ground cable where it attaches to bellhousing under the starter , have seen that was the problem a few times , is the screen dim and hard to read as that is a classic tell tale of a bad ground , if not the ground I would think it's the controll panel which is about $650 as I changed one Friday past , I would also look at the big screw together wire connector under the back of the cab , have seen corrsion in that plug before ------------another starting problem I seen on that machine is if it has the auxillary wiring harness on top of the quick couples and the harness is plug in on top the battery and the wire gets smashed and shorts out on top the couplers it will stop you from starting but usually will give you the code of multiple key switch error which if I remember is a something like 64-48
Oh , if you don't want to buy thr panel an still try it , take one out a friend machine and plug it into yours , that panel doesn't have to be programmed to work , but you have to stay in the some realm of standard or deluxe panel
 

simz

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Apr 15, 2007
Messages
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Alot of the curcuits on that machine run on 6-8 volts not 12 volts , did you check the ground cable where it attaches to bellhousing under the starter , have seen that was the problem a few times , is the screen dim and hard to read as that is a classic tell tale of a bad ground , if not the ground I would think it's the controll panel which is about $650 as I changed one Friday past , I would also look at the big screw together wire connector under the back of the cab , have seen corrsion in that plug before ------------another starting problem I seen on that machine is if it has the auxillary wiring harness on top of the quick couples and the harness is plug in on top the battery and the wire gets smashed and shorts out on top the couplers it will stop you from starting but usually will give you the code of multiple key switch error which if I remember is a something like 64-48
I found the problem, there was a bad wire in the harness. The red and white which goes from the control panel to the key panel was bad. The break was under the center panel where it runs from on panel to the other. I imagine this is why I was getting only 2.7 to 5 volts at the key panel. Thank you for all your help. Mike
 

Idoitall

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Mar 17, 2007
Messages
126
I found the problem, there was a bad wire in the harness. The red and white which goes from the control panel to the key panel was bad. The break was under the center panel where it runs from on panel to the other. I imagine this is why I was getting only 2.7 to 5 volts at the key panel. Thank you for all your help. Mike
Its good to hear that you solved the problem and didn't have to take it to the dealer. $$$$$$ to solve electrical issues.

This reminds me of some of my experiences with electrical problems. Two of the most common causes for automotive electrical problems are (1) Inadequate or loose ground issues, and (2) Battery cables with "hidden corrosion" underneath the insulation cover. This corrosion typically stems from poor battery maintenance, allowing the corrosion to start at the terminal and migrate inside the cable.

A little PM (Preventative Maintenance) goes a long way here.
 

Tazza

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Its good to hear that you solved the problem and didn't have to take it to the dealer. $$$$$$ to solve electrical issues.

This reminds me of some of my experiences with electrical problems. Two of the most common causes for automotive electrical problems are (1) Inadequate or loose ground issues, and (2) Battery cables with "hidden corrosion" underneath the insulation cover. This corrosion typically stems from poor battery maintenance, allowing the corrosion to start at the terminal and migrate inside the cable.

A little PM (Preventative Maintenance) goes a long way here.
Yes, the “black death” on copper wire that moves along the wire and jumps connectors. That stuff causes masses of troubles.
Glad you found the problem! i shudder to think what the dealer would charge to find it... IF they could even find it.
 

harp_lawncare

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Dec 3, 2011
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I found the problem, there was a bad wire in the harness. The red and white which goes from the control panel to the key panel was bad. The break was under the center panel where it runs from on panel to the other. I imagine this is why I was getting only 2.7 to 5 volts at the key panel. Thank you for all your help. Mike
i just found this thread and thank god i did! i had the exact same problem and after tearing my T190 apart for 7 hours i hoped on line and found this thred did exactly what you did and its running perfect now! just wanted to say thanks for posting i owe u one!
 
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