S175 runs but will not move

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yooper1

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Jan 20, 2009
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Hi folks! First off I have to say I am one of those people that hates when someone joins a forum just to ask a question and you never hear from them again. But, I have to eat crow and say, I am one of those people now. Long story short... we have an S175 at my site in the Upper Penninsula of Michigan that our parent company in Milwaukee gave us to use. It is our forklift, snow removal tool and all around well used skidsteer. It has about 2500 hours on it. Last week, the park brake would not release. I was out, but a co-worker stated he got it to release after "banging" on the metal where the seat sits. (Yeah I know....he should not be banging anything) It worked fine for the snowbanks the rest of that day. Yesterday we went to use it and it is stuck in place. It will not move forward or backwards. It is in a garage, but unheated. We would be really thankful if one of you nice people could tell us what to look for. Maybe a common thing to cause this? It has the green "push to operate" button, if that makes any difference. The light on the park / switch button comes on and goes off when the switch is moved to both positions. the boom works OK, (we were able to detach the bucket) it just will not move. We are about 60 miles from the nearest Bobcat dealer and we are hoping to trouble shoot it as much as possible before paying thru the nose for pick up and delivery. Also, we would like to get it working without having the one boss know there is a problem. He and our main boss fight over us having it way up here. One says it is a waste for us to have it and one says we need it, so, the less waves it causes the better Thanks for any and all advice in advance I also promise to not dissapear after just one post like a lot of people would do. Thanks Gary ps.....do not laugh at my lack of knowledge of Bobcat skidsteers....I admit I know nuttin'!
 
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yooper1

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Jan 20, 2009
Messages
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I have to add, that all my spacing and making of paragraphs seems to have been in vain. Looks like it runs all your words together in 1 large block... but, I can live with that....just looks so crowded when I read my post
 

Tazza

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I have to add, that all my spacing and making of paragraphs seems to have been in vain. Looks like it runs all your words together in 1 large block... but, I can live with that....just looks so crowded when I read my post
Paragraphs, click on your profile, down the bottom click the box that says use html editor (free text box) your paragraphs will then work.
 

Tazza

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Paragraphs, click on your profile, down the bottom click the box that says use html editor (free text box) your paragraphs will then work.
Ok, the problem sounds like a sticky park solenoid. Its an electromagnet that sits on the chain case. The coil pulls a blocking pin up to release the brake. It sounds like the solenoid is weak or something is binding up as you said when someone hit it, it would release. You will need to lift the cab and look for a cylinder about 2" diameter and about 3-4" long, this is the solenoid.
You may need to remove the inspection plate to find why its binding up, if you replace the colenoid you don't need to pull the the plate.
Good luck.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Ok, the problem sounds like a sticky park solenoid. Its an electromagnet that sits on the chain case. The coil pulls a blocking pin up to release the brake. It sounds like the solenoid is weak or something is binding up as you said when someone hit it, it would release. You will need to lift the cab and look for a cylinder about 2" diameter and about 3-4" long, this is the solenoid.
You may need to remove the inspection plate to find why its binding up, if you replace the colenoid you don't need to pull the the plate.
Good luck.
If the machine does not let out a loud "snap" when the green button is pushed then the brake is not releasing.
First of all there are 4 small orange lites by the green push to operate button. Are they all lit? Especially the traction one
If the traction one is not, be sure the orange park brake pedal is not kicked forward, its between the rh and lh foot pedals that control the loader and can get stepped on when getting in or out. Failing that check your relays and fuses, (you can swap the relays with each other to test them) located under the metal "bubble" cover on the upright panel between the front of the seat and the operators heals
Failing that remove the two 3/4" wrench size nuts in the lower front corner of the cab and lift the cab up to access the under seat area.
In the center of the machine below the front of the seat is a 2" by 4" long cylinder standing on end on top of the chain case. It has 3 large wire about 12 gauge coming from it. Remove the 2 bolts that hold it on and side it straight up off the rod in the center of it. Grab the rod and pull it up about 1.5" and put a hose clamp tightly around it to hold it up. Now your park brake is disabled and the machine will move.
Ken
 
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yooper1

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
7
If the machine does not let out a loud "snap" when the green button is pushed then the brake is not releasing.
First of all there are 4 small orange lites by the green push to operate button. Are they all lit? Especially the traction one
If the traction one is not, be sure the orange park brake pedal is not kicked forward, its between the rh and lh foot pedals that control the loader and can get stepped on when getting in or out. Failing that check your relays and fuses, (you can swap the relays with each other to test them) located under the metal "bubble" cover on the upright panel between the front of the seat and the operators heals
Failing that remove the two 3/4" wrench size nuts in the lower front corner of the cab and lift the cab up to access the under seat area.
In the center of the machine below the front of the seat is a 2" by 4" long cylinder standing on end on top of the chain case. It has 3 large wire about 12 gauge coming from it. Remove the 2 bolts that hold it on and side it straight up off the rod in the center of it. Grab the rod and pull it up about 1.5" and put a hose clamp tightly around it to hold it up. Now your park brake is disabled and the machine will move.
Ken
Thanks for the ideas guys. I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Thanks again I will post back what we find / don't find
 
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yooper1

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
7
also, thanks for the info on the html editor

Much better now
Well, here is what happened.


Before diving in and doing actual manual labor, my co-worker decided to put a torpedo heater aimed at the engine area with the door open and covered about 3/4 of the machine with a tarp.
After 2 hours of heating up, the brake released.
There was lots of water dripping off the undercarriage. We had been using it in a lot of wet heavy snow last week.
We were cautious calling it a victory.

We tried 4 or 5 times and it works as it should every time.
Thank God!!!!
Now, hopefully it does not freeze again overnight.
Thanks to all who gave advice.
I owe you a beer or 2 or 3
I may be back with more questions seeing as this is a nice board, loaded with good information.
But I WILL be back to participate without the odd questions.
Thanks again,
Gary
 

nobull1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
196
Well, here is what happened.


Before diving in and doing actual manual labor, my co-worker decided to put a torpedo heater aimed at the engine area with the door open and covered about 3/4 of the machine with a tarp.
After 2 hours of heating up, the brake released.
There was lots of water dripping off the undercarriage. We had been using it in a lot of wet heavy snow last week.
We were cautious calling it a victory.

We tried 4 or 5 times and it works as it should every time.
Thank God!!!!
Now, hopefully it does not freeze again overnight.
Thanks to all who gave advice.
I owe you a beer or 2 or 3
I may be back with more questions seeing as this is a nice board, loaded with good information.
But I WILL be back to participate without the odd questions.
Thanks again,
Gary
I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. I was using the machine for a couple of hours on a cold day with lots of moisture in the air. After shutting the machine off for about a half hour it would not release the brake. In the end I had a blown fuse and a big crack in the Bakelite on top of the solenoid. I suspect the water got inside the solenoid and blew the fuse. After replacing the fuse and solenoid I haven't had a problem since. Although you didn't blow a fuse it might be a idea to look at the top of the solenoid to see if there is any place water might have gotten in and frozen.
 
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yooper1

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
7
I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. I was using the machine for a couple of hours on a cold day with lots of moisture in the air. After shutting the machine off for about a half hour it would not release the brake. In the end I had a blown fuse and a big crack in the Bakelite on top of the solenoid. I suspect the water got inside the solenoid and blew the fuse. After replacing the fuse and solenoid I haven't had a problem since. Although you didn't blow a fuse it might be a idea to look at the top of the solenoid to see if there is any place water might have gotten in and frozen.
good idea

I will check that

thanks
 
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yooper1

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
7
good idea

I will check that

thanks
Well, it was stuck again today.
Tomorrow I will try the solenoid removal & hose clamp trick.
Would some PB Blaster help there or is it pretty much toast if it is sticking and better off getting a new one?
Thanks again
 

Tazza

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Staff member
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Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,836
Well, it was stuck again today.
Tomorrow I will try the solenoid removal & hose clamp trick.
Would some PB Blaster help there or is it pretty much toast if it is sticking and better off getting a new one?
Thanks again
It depends on how its sticking, if its electrical you need a new solenoid, but if its mechanical it could be as simple a a burr not allowing it to operate correctly.
 
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