S175 axle bearing & cup replacement Questions

[sierradmax]

Finally digging into a front axle leak. Turns out the front left has alot of in and out movement. Front right, not so much but still there. Rear has no movement. Front left: http://vid21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/sierradmax/20170208_214534_zpspywfuwgz.mp4 Front right: http://vid21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/sierradmax/20170208_214631_zps3by5snxy.mp4 After some research, seems axle bearings, race's and seals are needed. Couple questions. What size O.D. pipe is needed to push out the inner race? What type of oil and how much to refill the crankcase? Any tricks to re-install the new race's in the axle tube?

 

[Tazza]

If you do both front bearings, i used a rod to knock the cups out. Start at the bottom, then lever it up to get the top then the bottom till they come out. Hopefully that makes sense.
Not, installing them is the harder part. Either you need a porta power to pill the cups in, or you can use a threaded rod with spacers slightly smaller than the bearing cups. You use it to pull them into place.
When everythign is in place, you measure the end play and either buy washers to take up the slack or use a lather and cut the requred amount off the washers.

 

[sierradmax]

If you do both front bearings, i used a rod to knock the cups out. Start at the bottom, then lever it up to get the top then the bottom till they come out. Hopefully that makes sense.
Not, installing them is the harder part. Either you need a porta power to pill the cups in, or you can use a threaded rod with spacers slightly smaller than the bearing cups. You use it to pull them into place.
When everythign is in place, you measure the end play and either buy washers to take up the slack or use a lather and cut the requred amount off the washers.

Thanks Tazza. Where do the washers go? Between the sprocket & the bearing?

 

[sierradmax]

Thanks Tazza. Where do the washers go? Between the sprocket & the bearing?

I also found the capacity and type of oil. 8 gallons hydrostatic.

 

[bobbie-g]

I also found the capacity and type of oil. 8 gallons hydrostatic.

Hey, loved your camera trick! Have you ever dropped the camera into the chain case oil yet?! Regarding chain case oil, Tazza likes to mop out the bottom of the chain case once the oil's been drained. Drain plug is at the rear of the machine under the belly pan, covered up by a 2" x 10" plate held in place by three bolts. Two drain plugs, one for diesel and one for chain case. I always replace the rubber grommet anytime I drain the oil/diesel. Pull the center steel plug out to drain. Some of us pump the hydro oil into the chain case to refill the case, then top chain case off with el cheapo motor oil. The purist would not agree, but it's only moving chains that need to be oiled. On the other hand, I always go with Bobcat hydraulic oil for the hydraulics, although many folks use other stuff including I believe 10W30 engine oil. Good luck on the axle removal and replacement. I've never been that far into one yet, so I'm envious! ---Bobbie-G

 

[sierradmax]

Hey, loved your camera trick! Have you ever dropped the camera into the chain case oil yet?! Regarding chain case oil, Tazza likes to mop out the bottom of the chain case once the oil's been drained. Drain plug is at the rear of the machine under the belly pan, covered up by a 2" x 10" plate held in place by three bolts. Two drain plugs, one for diesel and one for chain case. I always replace the rubber grommet anytime I drain the oil/diesel. Pull the center steel plug out to drain. Some of us pump the hydro oil into the chain case to refill the case, then top chain case off with el cheapo motor oil. The purist would not agree, but it's only moving chains that need to be oiled. On the other hand, I always go with Bobcat hydraulic oil for the hydraulics, although many folks use other stuff including I believe 10W30 engine oil. Good luck on the axle removal and replacement. I've never been that far into one yet, so I'm envious! ---Bobbie-G

These phone keep getting larger every year. No, luckily the phone was an inch longer than the width of the front chaincase opening. The teardown is complete. Two 6 ton bottle jacks did the trick and a 6' long piece of 3/4" emt knocked out the races. Both outside bearings were toast. I just have to figure out a way to press off the old bearing from the shaft, press the new one on and remove the key-ways.

 

[Tazza]

These phone keep getting larger every year. No, luckily the phone was an inch longer than the width of the front chaincase opening. The teardown is complete. Two 6 ton bottle jacks did the trick and a 6' long piece of 3/4" emt knocked out the races. Both outside bearings were toast. I just have to figure out a way to press off the old bearing from the shaft, press the new one on and remove the key-ways.

The washer is the one that sits on the end of the axle to hold the sprocket. When you cut more from the centre of the washer, the more you push the sprocket into the bearing.
You you remove the hub from the axle first? That's one thing i should have mentioned.... You loosen the bolt a turn or two then use bottle jacks to load the hub then hit the bolt with a hammer to get it to release. If you didn't do it, you will need to press it off.
I made an adaptor for a porta-power to pull my bearings in, but on another machine i machined up an installation tool out of steel that was a little smaller than the bearing cup with a shoulder the same size of the inside part, i made two and used threaded rod and pull it down and it pulls the cups into place. It sounds complicated, but it's easy when you see what it is.
If you need a picture of what i mean, look up my profile and send me an email, i'll take some pictures for you.

 

[sierradmax]

The washer is the one that sits on the end of the axle to hold the sprocket. When you cut more from the centre of the washer, the more you push the sprocket into the bearing.
You you remove the hub from the axle first? That's one thing i should have mentioned.... You loosen the bolt a turn or two then use bottle jacks to load the hub then hit the bolt with a hammer to get it to release. If you didn't do it, you will need to press it off.
I made an adaptor for a porta-power to pull my bearings in, but on another machine i machined up an installation tool out of steel that was a little smaller than the bearing cup with a shoulder the same size of the inside part, i made two and used threaded rod and pull it down and it pulls the cups into place. It sounds complicated, but it's easy when you see what it is.
If you need a picture of what i mean, look up my profile and send me an email, i'll take some pictures for you.

Well, this turned into a frustrating project. I had new outer bearings packed and pressed onto the axle shafts. I installed new races in the axle tubes. I froze them overnight in the freezer then I made a threaded rod assembly with some 2.25" oversized washers to seat them fully. What a pain in the a$$ holding the axle shaft with a knee and reaching down in the chaincase opening to set the inner bearing & sprocket. My first attempt was the left side. I thought I had everything lined up and tightened as much as I could. Then, I went to the outside to install the seal. I repeated on the right side and noticed the sprocket was seated in further and further forward. Long story short, the left inner bearing caught the lip of the race and tore it all to hell. Nicked the race, too. A $30 case of PBR and a phone call to a friend will be in order this weekend when the hew bearing and race arrives.

 

[Tazza]

Well, this turned into a frustrating project. I had new outer bearings packed and pressed onto the axle shafts. I installed new races in the axle tubes. I froze them overnight in the freezer then I made a threaded rod assembly with some 2.25" oversized washers to seat them fully. What a pain in the a$$ holding the axle shaft with a knee and reaching down in the chaincase opening to set the inner bearing & sprocket. My first attempt was the left side. I thought I had everything lined up and tightened as much as I could. Then, I went to the outside to install the seal. I repeated on the right side and noticed the sprocket was seated in further and further forward. Long story short, the left inner bearing caught the lip of the race and tore it all to hell. Nicked the race, too. A $30 case of PBR and a phone call to a friend will be in order this weekend when the hew bearing and race arrives.

Not great news, it sure is easier with a helper. Hopefully round two will go without a hitch.
Good job making up an installation tool.

 

[wbecker]

Not great news, it sure is easier with a helper. Hopefully round two will go without a hitch.
Good job making up an installation tool.

I just finished all new axle bearings and chains on my S160. This is how I installed the inner races, after installing the outer race and bearing. I put the race in and tapped it enough for it to stay put. Put the axle in being careful not to make the race fall out. I made a spacer of aluminum that is about 1.4" thick and slides over the axle, i put that on the axle then put the bearing on the axle and put on the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt and the spacer and bearing will push the race in, notice the race goes in just a bit past flush before it bottoms out, make sure it's in all the way. Then take the home made spacer out and reassemble. This is an S160 should be the same. Bill B

 

[Tazza]

I just finished all new axle bearings and chains on my S160. This is how I installed the inner races, after installing the outer race and bearing. I put the race in and tapped it enough for it to stay put. Put the axle in being careful not to make the race fall out. I made a spacer of aluminum that is about 1.4" thick and slides over the axle, i put that on the axle then put the bearing on the axle and put on the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt and the spacer and bearing will push the race in, notice the race goes in just a bit past flush before it bottoms out, make sure it's in all the way. Then take the home made spacer out and reassemble. This is an S160 should be the same. Bill B

Good to hear you got them all replaced without any issues. Hopefully it's the last time you will need to do them at least!

 

[wbecker]

Good to hear you got them all replaced without any issues. Hopefully it's the last time you will need to do them at least!

I my message above the aluminum spacer should read, 1/4" thick, not 1.4" thick. And thank you Tazza for all your help as always!

 

[wbecker]

I just finished all new axle bearings and chains on my S160. This is how I installed the inner races, after installing the outer race and bearing. I put the race in and tapped it enough for it to stay put. Put the axle in being careful not to make the race fall out. I made a spacer of aluminum that is about 1.4" thick and slides over the axle, i put that on the axle then put the bearing on the axle and put on the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt and the spacer and bearing will push the race in, notice the race goes in just a bit past flush before it bottoms out, make sure it's in all the way. Then take the home made spacer out and reassemble. This is an S160 should be the same. Bill B

I see that in my post on how to press the inner cup into the housing I explained it incorrectly. It should read:
I made a spacer of aluminum that is about 1/4" thick. With the inner cone started in the housing, I put the axle in, slide the bearing on the axle then slide the 1/4" spacer on the axle and put on the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt and the bearing will push the race in, notice the race goes in just a bit past flush before it bottoms out, make sure it's in all the way. Then take the home made spacer out and reassemble.
After tightening the sprocket bolt, I measure the axle end-play and if it's loose, I machine a counter-bore in the heavy washer (as Tazza suggested to me) so the axle can come through the sprocket farther to take up the clearance the I measured.
Sorry for the confusion, I know it's too late to help, but may help someone else. Bill B

 

[Tazza]

I see that in my post on how to press the inner cup into the housing I explained it incorrectly. It should read:
I made a spacer of aluminum that is about 1/4" thick. With the inner cone started in the housing, I put the axle in, slide the bearing on the axle then slide the 1/4" spacer on the axle and put on the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt and the bearing will push the race in, notice the race goes in just a bit past flush before it bottoms out, make sure it's in all the way. Then take the home made spacer out and reassemble.
After tightening the sprocket bolt, I measure the axle end-play and if it's loose, I machine a counter-bore in the heavy washer (as Tazza suggested to me) so the axle can come through the sprocket farther to take up the clearance the I measured.
Sorry for the confusion, I know it's too late to help, but may help someone else. Bill B

I'm sure it will help someone down the track, thanks for the update.