S-175 axle seal replacement

[sierradmax]

I bought a used S-175 that needs an axle seal replacement. How hard of a job is it and 1> should I replace bearings as well? 2. Should I do all 4 corners?

 

[Tazza]

Get the wheels off the ground and grab the wheel and pull/push it in and out, see if you can feel any movement. If there is, you have axle float that means you need bearings or to adjust the washers inside the chain case.
If the wheels feel good, loosen the nut on the hub a few turns, get two bottle jacks behind it and pump it up and hit the bolt with a hammer, it should pop the hub off.

 

[sierradmax]

Get the wheels off the ground and grab the wheel and pull/push it in and out, see if you can feel any movement. If there is, you have axle float that means you need bearings or to adjust the washers inside the chain case.
If the wheels feel good, loosen the nut on the hub a few turns, get two bottle jacks behind it and pump it up and hit the bolt with a hammer, it should pop the hub off.

Great, thanks for the reply. If the bearings are good, does the axle have to slide out in order to replace the seal or can it easily be removed with a seal puller? What do you guys use to re-insert the seal? Piece of pipe?

 

[Tazza]

Great, thanks for the reply. If the bearings are good, does the axle have to slide out in order to replace the seal or can it easily be removed with a seal puller? What do you guys use to re-insert the seal? Piece of pipe?

With the hub off, the seal is easily changed.
To remove it, drill a small hole in the seal and screw in a self tapping screw and use pliers to pull it out.
To put it back in, you can use pipe or a pin punch and slowly work around it to ensure it's straight.

 

[sierradmax]

With the hub off, the seal is easily changed.
To remove it, drill a small hole in the seal and screw in a self tapping screw and use pliers to pull it out.
To put it back in, you can use pipe or a pin punch and slowly work around it to ensure it's straight.

Thanks Tazza. Just for my benefit, I bought the service manual for the machine. I read through the instructions and found that re-assembling requires the hub bolt to be torques to 750-800 ft. #'s?!!! Looks like I'll need a 4' bar and my 200# a$$ jumping on it. However, the manual doesn't state to drain the chaincase. Can it be done without doing so?

 

[Tazza]

Thanks Tazza. Just for my benefit, I bought the service manual for the machine. I read through the instructions and found that re-assembling requires the hub bolt to be torques to 750-800 ft. #'s?!!! Looks like I'll need a 4' bar and my 200# a$$ jumping on it. However, the manual doesn't state to drain the chaincase. Can it be done without doing so?

Exactly what i did, long pipe and haul on it
If you don't pull the axle i guess you can leave it alone, some oil will leak past the bearing and out, but not lots and lots. If you prop that side up higher than the other, it may keep it from flowing out too.

 

[Tazza]

Exactly what i did, long pipe and haul on it
If you don't pull the axle i guess you can leave it alone, some oil will leak past the bearing and out, but not lots and lots. If you prop that side up higher than the other, it may keep it from flowing out too.

One thing i didn't mention, clean any oil off the taper on the hub and axle before putting it back together. You want them to hold together as tight as possible.