replacing axle seal on bobcat S130

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danvil

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Mar 15, 2007
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I was told by bobcat service worker that removing the axle bolt is the only thing to be remove in order to replace the seal. After removing the bolt and thick washer , I tried my best to pull the hub assy and even push it with bottle jack nothing happen. Is there a technique to remove this stubborn axle anyway or there a special tools for this job. I 'm looking a repair manual that cost $79 @ ebay , just to have an info replacing the seal, but I will try this forum to help me .
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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The hub is bored with an A-taper and the end of the axle the same , there is a key way in there , the fit is tight , sometimes if your lucky you can hit the hub from the back side and get it to pop off , it don't happen that way very often , and take care on hitting it to much as it will bent up the hub , the correct way to do it is to use a puller , and it has to be a pretty stiff puller at that . losen the bolt and remove the washer then reinstall the bolt loose , this gives you something flat to push on and the tip of the puller doesn't damage the threads on the end of the shaft , once you get some pressure on the hub hit the turning bolt of the puller with a mall and it should pop off , if it still don't heat the hub and repeat procedure , once you get the hub off it still isn't a walk in the park as the seal is recessed in the end of the axle tube , drill a hole into the seal and use a dent puller , screw the dent puller into the seal and slide hammer it out , you can try and dig it out with an awl and a old screw drive but the dent puller is the way to go , if you don't have a dent pull , drill the hole and install a screw then grap the screw with a vise grip , be sure to torgue the bolt to specs which if I remeber right is 600 ft lbs and loctite the bolt , good luck , fishfiles
 

farmboy55

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Aug 16, 2006
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The hub is bored with an A-taper and the end of the axle the same , there is a key way in there , the fit is tight , sometimes if your lucky you can hit the hub from the back side and get it to pop off , it don't happen that way very often , and take care on hitting it to much as it will bent up the hub , the correct way to do it is to use a puller , and it has to be a pretty stiff puller at that . losen the bolt and remove the washer then reinstall the bolt loose , this gives you something flat to push on and the tip of the puller doesn't damage the threads on the end of the shaft , once you get some pressure on the hub hit the turning bolt of the puller with a mall and it should pop off , if it still don't heat the hub and repeat procedure , once you get the hub off it still isn't a walk in the park as the seal is recessed in the end of the axle tube , drill a hole into the seal and use a dent puller , screw the dent puller into the seal and slide hammer it out , you can try and dig it out with an awl and a old screw drive but the dent puller is the way to go , if you don't have a dent pull , drill the hole and install a screw then grap the screw with a vise grip , be sure to torgue the bolt to specs which if I remeber right is 600 ft lbs and loctite the bolt , good luck , fishfiles
Hey Danvil, Where are you located?? I made a puller, took a peice of 1" x 3" flat stock and drill a 1" finetread hole in the center for a grade 8 bolt, then two on a 8" center for the lug bolt holes, I had to put a plate on each side of the flat stock to beef it up (it bent in the center the first time) used a big impact wrench & radchet with cheater pipe, get it as tight as you dare, then stand to the side and put the hammer to it. Ihad one to fly off when it came loose. I have access to a machine shop so there was no cost to making the puller. It takes a big heavy duty puller to do the job. I've yet too have one that came off easy. dennis
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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Hey Danvil, Where are you located?? I made a puller, took a peice of 1" x 3" flat stock and drill a 1" finetread hole in the center for a grade 8 bolt, then two on a 8" center for the lug bolt holes, I had to put a plate on each side of the flat stock to beef it up (it bent in the center the first time) used a big impact wrench & radchet with cheater pipe, get it as tight as you dare, then stand to the side and put the hammer to it. Ihad one to fly off when it came loose. I have access to a machine shop so there was no cost to making the puller. It takes a big heavy duty puller to do the job. I've yet too have one that came off easy. dennis
Remove the bolt in the center and use you bottle jack to press it off by putting the top of the jack on the axel and wrapping a chain around the bottom of the jack and the hub.
Pump up the jack, then smack it with a hammer.
Ken
 

nobull1

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196
Remove the bolt in the center and use you bottle jack to press it off by putting the top of the jack on the axel and wrapping a chain around the bottom of the jack and the hub.
Pump up the jack, then smack it with a hammer.
Ken
Ken
It makes sense when you don't have the proper puller. I was thinking how I would do that if needed, without making a tool. The only issue might be the chain slipping, but properly installed it shouldn't be a problem.. Good tip.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Ken
It makes sense when you don't have the proper puller. I was thinking how I would do that if needed, without making a tool. The only issue might be the chain slipping, but properly installed it shouldn't be a problem.. Good tip.
I'd make my puller tool to fit my jack if necessary, I have more faith in hydraulics then the threads, less work to imo.
I've never had to change a axel seal, but have used this principle elsewhere.
It may be possible to use two bottle jacks between the machines body and the hub to push more evenly, and a hammer for some shock therapy.
Ken
 

nobull1

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I'd make my puller tool to fit my jack if necessary, I have more faith in hydraulics then the threads, less work to imo.
I've never had to change a axel seal, but have used this principle elsewhere.
It may be possible to use two bottle jacks between the machines body and the hub to push more evenly, and a hammer for some shock therapy.
Ken
Two bottle jacks would probably work better, One thing that comes to mind is the hub flying off at 90 miles a hour in your direction. That reminds me of a time we were tightening the load binders on the trailer. One was real tight and it was all I could do to get it to lock with the help of a 4' piece of pipe. Just as I almost had it my hands slipped and the pipe shot across the yard at a speed that could have killed someone. Lucky for me there was no one or thing near at the time.
 

Tazza

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Two bottle jacks would probably work better, One thing that comes to mind is the hub flying off at 90 miles a hour in your direction. That reminds me of a time we were tightening the load binders on the trailer. One was real tight and it was all I could do to get it to lock with the help of a 4' piece of pipe. Just as I almost had it my hands slipped and the pipe shot across the yard at a speed that could have killed someone. Lucky for me there was no one or thing near at the time.
Most of us have done that, had something slip and fly across the shed at almost the speed of light.
The good thing about hydraulics is when something gives, it will not shoot out. Like when a cylinder or hose bursts, it just lets a jet of oil out. BUT a pneumatic hose or cylinder can cause massive damage as the air is compressible unlike oil a lot of energy is stored in the hose and cylinder. Hydraulics don't store energy like that.
The only movement you will have when it gives is the flex in the steel. It will just POP and fall off (unless it let go when you were belting the snott out of it with a sledge hammer).
 

skidsteer.ca

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Remove the bolt in the center and use you bottle jack to press it off by putting the top of the jack on the axel and wrapping a chain around the bottom of the jack and the hub.
Pump up the jack, then smack it with a hammer.
Ken
I think Tazza is right about the hub not flying to far, don't stand right in front, and you will be ok.
 

nobull1

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I think Tazza is right about the hub not flying to far, don't stand right in front, and you will be ok.
I agree it shouldn't fly too far, it's not like me pulling on the 4' pipe and then launching it like from a catapult.
Brian
 

danvil

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Mar 15, 2007
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thanks to all of your info , I followed exactly you said in this forum. I used bottle jack to push that hub , heat it up with propane torch and finally hit the hub a rubber mallet . Drilled the seal and pulled out with a hammer, that was easy , thanks to you guys for helping me. Danvil
 

nobull1

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Jan 4, 2007
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196
thanks to all of your info , I followed exactly you said in this forum. I used bottle jack to push that hub , heat it up with propane torch and finally hit the hub a rubber mallet . Drilled the seal and pulled out with a hammer, that was easy , thanks to you guys for helping me. Danvil
Great to hear it worked out for you. It sure is nice when things work out like they should.
 
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