Removing bushing from center roll back.

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Stonehands

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2014
Messages
75
I bought a very nice back hoe attachment for my 863F. Difficult to get the attachment to lock as I cannot get the unit to tilt back far enough to engage the latches on the frame. Seems my pin and bushing on the center tilt were very sloppy and had too much play in them. Easy to get that pin out but the bushing was not moving after heating, cooling and hammering. Bought 1 Diablo Carbide Extreme metal cutting recipe blade for my Sawzall. I kid you not, this 6" blade cut 2 slots in the bushing so fast I scored the inside slightly. 15 to 20 seconds and I had 2 cuts inside the bushing. It popped out with a light tap. I couldn't be more pleased as I saw the videos of using cutting torch, welding the bushing, using hammer slides and the methods. I have to replace the pins and bushing on the lower arms next and am looking forward to seeing how this method works on those.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,829
New blades always cut steel like butter, glad it made easy work of it.
One thing you may need to do is to use the stabilizer legs to push the hoe back enough to lock in place too. Even after replacing pivot points, there can be just a little too much slow, if it's still an issue, use the legs to get it engaged.
 

mmsllc

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
715
New blades always cut steel like butter, glad it made easy work of it.
One thing you may need to do is to use the stabilizer legs to push the hoe back enough to lock in place too. Even after replacing pivot points, there can be just a little too much slow, if it's still an issue, use the legs to get it engaged.
a torch would also let you cut just the bushing if you keep the heat only on the bushing only. I did that on a backhoe bushing a little while back. it woks good if you use a very shallow angle. just go slow.
 

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