Remove engine on a 763?

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DL3633

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Jan 15, 2006
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Can someone tell me in general what needs to be removed or disconnected on the flywheel side of a 763? (v2203 engine) I'm an experienced mechanic but never any major repairs on a bobcat. I can't tell from looking at it if there is an outer bellhousing with bolts then the engine slips out or some other arrangement that attaches the engine/flywheel to the pumps. My overall problem is extremely hot blowby out of the valve cover with my engine oil in it. It will blow a quart of oil in a few minutes. I have a good head standing by to swap but the more I read/research, all articles on diesels point straight to rings or cylinder. If someone else has had this problem I would like to hear the fix!!!
 

Tazza

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How hard it it to start? does it blow alot of smoke when it runs?
Generally speaking, when it takes a fair amount of effort to start your plugs are sad or you indeed have too much piston/bore wear. A new head will do nothing to fix this (as you know).
Your best bet before removing the head or engine would to do a compression test. You should get 350-450 PSI. So i have been told, 350 is at the lower limit of what a diesel engine will work.
Generally speaking, excessive blow-by is indeed worn poston/rings/bore. If you can live with it, you can install an oil catch can on the breether and just keep topping the engine oil up.
 

DL3633

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Jan 15, 2006
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How hard it it to start? does it blow alot of smoke when it runs?
Generally speaking, when it takes a fair amount of effort to start your plugs are sad or you indeed have too much piston/bore wear. A new head will do nothing to fix this (as you know).
Your best bet before removing the head or engine would to do a compression test. You should get 350-450 PSI. So i have been told, 350 is at the lower limit of what a diesel engine will work.
Generally speaking, excessive blow-by is indeed worn poston/rings/bore. If you can live with it, you can install an oil catch can on the breether and just keep topping the engine oil up.
The bobcat starts easy and runs out good. Exhaust turns blue maybe black when I work it hard. I've tried the catch can and it melts any kind of rubber hose I connect to the breather. It is a continuous spray of oil out of the valve cover. I put several days of digging on this machine with no problem, then one day I noticed the alternator getting a film of oil, then within 8 hours or so it went from a little blowby to a large amount of blowby. It actually covers the engine in a coat of oil in 20 minutes. I have a manual on the engine so any advice on removing the engine would be appreciated.
 

Tazza

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The bobcat starts easy and runs out good. Exhaust turns blue maybe black when I work it hard. I've tried the catch can and it melts any kind of rubber hose I connect to the breather. It is a continuous spray of oil out of the valve cover. I put several days of digging on this machine with no problem, then one day I noticed the alternator getting a film of oil, then within 8 hours or so it went from a little blowby to a large amount of blowby. It actually covers the engine in a coat of oil in 20 minutes. I have a manual on the engine so any advice on removing the engine would be appreciated.
I have never pulled an engine that was facing east/west but i would suspect its all basically the same. I'm not sure on what is needed to be removed to get it out, but if you have access to an air operated hoist it will save you ALOT of work. I used one to remove and install mine in a 743 was magic.
As far as i'm aware you should just need to remove your drive belt, exhaust & inlet hoses, throttle linkage, fuel line, your stop solenoid cables and any other cabling including your earth strap.
The blue smoke sounds like valve stem seals or worn oil rings (would account for the excessive blow-by too). The black smoke when under load is normal. When you get the head off you may get a better idea of what is going on.
Good luck on the engine re-build!
 

Tazza

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I have never pulled an engine that was facing east/west but i would suspect its all basically the same. I'm not sure on what is needed to be removed to get it out, but if you have access to an air operated hoist it will save you ALOT of work. I used one to remove and install mine in a 743 was magic.
As far as i'm aware you should just need to remove your drive belt, exhaust & inlet hoses, throttle linkage, fuel line, your stop solenoid cables and any other cabling including your earth strap.
The blue smoke sounds like valve stem seals or worn oil rings (would account for the excessive blow-by too). The black smoke when under load is normal. When you get the head off you may get a better idea of what is going on.
Good luck on the engine re-build!
One thing, check your filter and inlet manifold. For it to get this bad so fast, it may have been “dusted”. If it did enhale dust, its like sandpaper on your cylinder walls and will destroy the engine in no time.
 

anitel

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Aug 15, 2006
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One thing, check your filter and inlet manifold. For it to get this bad so fast, it may have been “dusted”. If it did enhale dust, its like sandpaper on your cylinder walls and will destroy the engine in no time.
It's really quite easy to pull these sideways mounted engines. Just disconnect the hose and steering linkages going into the main pump under the cab. You will need two large wrenches and lots of patience to do this but it is the best way. When you put the hoses back on later use new O-rings from bobcat dealer or suitable substitute. Then disconnect engine wiring harness from back of the under side of cab near hyd tank (oh yeah, drain hyd tank). Then drain coolant lines and disconnect them. Disconnect battery, remove coolant holding tank and bracket, disconnect exhaust and remove muffler. Then you have four bolts at the four corners of the engine and pump sub-frame. Remove those bolts (3/4" drive) and the engine will lift out from the rear with the pump still attached. This is the bobcat approved way and written up in the service manual. I can pull one out in about 4-5 hours with the pump hoses being the biggest pain. Installation is easier once you get the engine back in and lined up. Bobcat suggests building a engine pulling frame but I just use one of the forks of a forklift and a very short chain. The v2203 has two loops for lifting on it, one is near the breather and the other is near the intake opening. Don't worry, just take your time and label your hoses for reinstallation later. Once you get the engine out the rings are straight forward to do and also check your bearing and crank for excessive wear. I'd also get a valve job on the head while it is out of the engine and new head gasket of course. Thomas
 

DL3633

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Jan 15, 2006
Messages
8
It's really quite easy to pull these sideways mounted engines. Just disconnect the hose and steering linkages going into the main pump under the cab. You will need two large wrenches and lots of patience to do this but it is the best way. When you put the hoses back on later use new O-rings from bobcat dealer or suitable substitute. Then disconnect engine wiring harness from back of the under side of cab near hyd tank (oh yeah, drain hyd tank). Then drain coolant lines and disconnect them. Disconnect battery, remove coolant holding tank and bracket, disconnect exhaust and remove muffler. Then you have four bolts at the four corners of the engine and pump sub-frame. Remove those bolts (3/4" drive) and the engine will lift out from the rear with the pump still attached. This is the bobcat approved way and written up in the service manual. I can pull one out in about 4-5 hours with the pump hoses being the biggest pain. Installation is easier once you get the engine back in and lined up. Bobcat suggests building a engine pulling frame but I just use one of the forks of a forklift and a very short chain. The v2203 has two loops for lifting on it, one is near the breather and the other is near the intake opening. Don't worry, just take your time and label your hoses for reinstallation later. Once you get the engine out the rings are straight forward to do and also check your bearing and crank for excessive wear. I'd also get a valve job on the head while it is out of the engine and new head gasket of course. Thomas
Thanks for the info; this is exactly what I needed. I finally broke down and bought a service manual, should be here in a couple of days.
 
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