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Bobcat Skidsteer Forums
General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
Rear axle seals and bearings 743
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<blockquote data-quote="Tazza" data-source="post: 7685" data-attributes="member: 82"><p>Not a problem.</p><p>If you are in there doing the rear seals i would do the front ones too.</p><p>I would remove the front plate the steering levers pass through with the levers. You want it as easy to get access to the rear of the chain case as you can. With one axle out you just need to crack the nut and put a long extension or extensions with a socket to remove the bolt. Don't do it the hard way. Remember to crack the lines to the motors, you don't want to fight against them to move the axles to un-do the bolts. Remove the lines and plug the ones to the pump only, not the motor. Use plastic ones on the motor to keep dirt out but you want to me able to move the oil to spin the motor. To turn the axles i used a piece of angle iron with 3 holes drilled to match the stud pattern. I welded a 6' length of water pipe to that for leverage, and YES you will need that leverage!!!! Put the nuts on the angle to make sure you don't damage the studs before turning when its tight. When its loose its not needed so much.</p><p>Be patient, this job will sure test your patience, trust me! even my cheating way of hanging the chain case in the air and used gravity to hold the sprockets and chain tested me. If you simply can't get the sprockets back on, you may need to break the chain and put in a new link. Don't make the mistake i did of putting the sprocket on and try to get the chain over it, it simply will not go. You must have the chain on the sprocket before you push the axle in place, jiggle it to align the splines and then start to knock the axle and seal in. If you don't do it this way you will need to bash the axle and new seal back out. This risks doing damage to the new bearing cone. The sprocket should start to engage before the seal reaches the opening of the axle tube. This is a 2 man job as the weight of the axle pushing on the cone tends to make the whole thing slip out and you drop the bearing on the inside of the chain case.</p><p>Use heavy grease on the bearings to help hold them in place.</p><p>Thats about all i can think of to help just take your time it will noy be pleasant but it is satisfying when you get it done your self! The front seals will be much easier as they are rite below the inspection plate.</p><p>Any problems or questions you have my e-mail or just post in here.</p><p>Good luck!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tazza, post: 7685, member: 82"] Not a problem. If you are in there doing the rear seals i would do the front ones too. I would remove the front plate the steering levers pass through with the levers. You want it as easy to get access to the rear of the chain case as you can. With one axle out you just need to crack the nut and put a long extension or extensions with a socket to remove the bolt. Don't do it the hard way. Remember to crack the lines to the motors, you don't want to fight against them to move the axles to un-do the bolts. Remove the lines and plug the ones to the pump only, not the motor. Use plastic ones on the motor to keep dirt out but you want to me able to move the oil to spin the motor. To turn the axles i used a piece of angle iron with 3 holes drilled to match the stud pattern. I welded a 6' length of water pipe to that for leverage, and YES you will need that leverage!!!! Put the nuts on the angle to make sure you don't damage the studs before turning when its tight. When its loose its not needed so much. Be patient, this job will sure test your patience, trust me! even my cheating way of hanging the chain case in the air and used gravity to hold the sprockets and chain tested me. If you simply can't get the sprockets back on, you may need to break the chain and put in a new link. Don't make the mistake i did of putting the sprocket on and try to get the chain over it, it simply will not go. You must have the chain on the sprocket before you push the axle in place, jiggle it to align the splines and then start to knock the axle and seal in. If you don't do it this way you will need to bash the axle and new seal back out. This risks doing damage to the new bearing cone. The sprocket should start to engage before the seal reaches the opening of the axle tube. This is a 2 man job as the weight of the axle pushing on the cone tends to make the whole thing slip out and you drop the bearing on the inside of the chain case. Use heavy grease on the bearings to help hold them in place. Thats about all i can think of to help just take your time it will noy be pleasant but it is satisfying when you get it done your self! The front seals will be much easier as they are rite below the inspection plate. Any problems or questions you have my e-mail or just post in here. Good luck!! [/QUOTE]
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Rear axle seals and bearings 743
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