Rear axle seals and bearings 743

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tac

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Hi, All, I need to do the seals and bearings, I have a manuel, just wondering how much of a job this might be, Thanks
 

Tazza

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It is a HUGE job.
I have done it twice before but that was on machines i striped down and was able to hang the chain case up in the air to make it easier. The main problem is after you pull the axles out you need to get them back in and align the drive sprockets. You have to lift a 5 or so KG sprocket that has a chain that weighs about the same and line it up. Personally i wouldn't attempt it without a chain breaker. Break the rear chain and the job will be MUCH easier.
If you do the rear seals and bearings i'd do the fronts!
You will need to make a jig to turn the wheel hub from the outside while you have a 1 1/8” ring spanner on the inside bolt. The bolts are VERY VERY tight.
When you have the bolts off, use a bottle jack on its side between the chain case and the axle hub to pull the axle and seal out.
When its all back in, check for end play, there should be none, if there is you will need spacer washers or a lathe to remove a small amount of the washer to take up the slack.
Don't be fooled, it is a big job!
The seals and bearings are common too, so get prices not just from Bobcat. My bearings were 1/4 the price from Bobcat and were just as good. The seals were about the same price. You really should replace the wear sleeves if you are in there.
 

pondfishr

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It is a HUGE job.
I have done it twice before but that was on machines i striped down and was able to hang the chain case up in the air to make it easier. The main problem is after you pull the axles out you need to get them back in and align the drive sprockets. You have to lift a 5 or so KG sprocket that has a chain that weighs about the same and line it up. Personally i wouldn't attempt it without a chain breaker. Break the rear chain and the job will be MUCH easier.
If you do the rear seals and bearings i'd do the fronts!
You will need to make a jig to turn the wheel hub from the outside while you have a 1 1/8” ring spanner on the inside bolt. The bolts are VERY VERY tight.
When you have the bolts off, use a bottle jack on its side between the chain case and the axle hub to pull the axle and seal out.
When its all back in, check for end play, there should be none, if there is you will need spacer washers or a lathe to remove a small amount of the washer to take up the slack.
Don't be fooled, it is a big job!
The seals and bearings are common too, so get prices not just from Bobcat. My bearings were 1/4 the price from Bobcat and were just as good. The seals were about the same price. You really should replace the wear sleeves if you are in there.
I just topped off my 743 chain case fluid and now my left rear wheel is leaking oil like crazy. Should I try to fix it myself? From what I can tell this is a pretty heavy duty repair but I really want to get it completed. How much would a dealer charge for something like this or do you think a local tractor repair shop could handle it?
 

Tazza

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I just topped off my 743 chain case fluid and now my left rear wheel is leaking oil like crazy. Should I try to fix it myself? From what I can tell this is a pretty heavy duty repair but I really want to get it completed. How much would a dealer charge for something like this or do you think a local tractor repair shop could handle it?
Honestly for a dealer to do it you would be up for well over 1k i think.
Over here genuine prices for the wear sleeves were $20 each, a full set of cups and cones (bearings) were around $400 then seals were about $25 each. I did all 4 as i was in there.
If it was me, i'd block the loader, remove the rear wheels and feel for end play. If there is none, i'd just replace the seals (if you do one, do both or all 4!) You may need 4 new bearings depending if they pull off the shaft easily or not. I managed to pull them on one machine i did.
The hardest part is the seal installation tool. I had a look at the one at my dealer and made my own, it works a treat.
Technically you don't need to do the wear sleeves but you don't want to have it leak again.
If you have MSN look in my profile for my e-mail address and pop on and i can talk you through what needs to be done in a bit more detail and i can answer any questions you may have.
 

tac

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Jun 6, 2007
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Honestly for a dealer to do it you would be up for well over 1k i think.
Over here genuine prices for the wear sleeves were $20 each, a full set of cups and cones (bearings) were around $400 then seals were about $25 each. I did all 4 as i was in there.
If it was me, i'd block the loader, remove the rear wheels and feel for end play. If there is none, i'd just replace the seals (if you do one, do both or all 4!) You may need 4 new bearings depending if they pull off the shaft easily or not. I managed to pull them on one machine i did.
The hardest part is the seal installation tool. I had a look at the one at my dealer and made my own, it works a treat.
Technically you don't need to do the wear sleeves but you don't want to have it leak again.
If you have MSN look in my profile for my e-mail address and pop on and i can talk you through what needs to be done in a bit more detail and i can answer any questions you may have.
Thanks for info, I new it wasnt gooing to be an easy fix. Can you share more info about that seal tool you made? also how did match the bearing, before or after you removed them, and got the numbers. I am hoping to get all the parts on hand, then dive into this. I have a full shop, and pretty good mechanic, How long you think this may lay up machine, 1-2-3 days? Thanks again Tac
 

pondfishr

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Thanks for info, I new it wasnt gooing to be an easy fix. Can you share more info about that seal tool you made? also how did match the bearing, before or after you removed them, and got the numbers. I am hoping to get all the parts on hand, then dive into this. I have a full shop, and pretty good mechanic, How long you think this may lay up machine, 1-2-3 days? Thanks again Tac
Tac it looks like we both are in the same boat on this one. I called the dealer today and for the left rear wheel it is a 6 hour job $77 per hour plus parts. If I was to replace all 4 of them it really could get $$$$$. Tazza I am having trouble finding your profile on MSN instant messenger. I really want to get it fixed but I hate to spend that much but it is not worth much with them leaking. I sent you a message did you get it? I am pondfishr on MSN too.
 

Tazza

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Tac it looks like we both are in the same boat on this one. I called the dealer today and for the left rear wheel it is a 6 hour job $77 per hour plus parts. If I was to replace all 4 of them it really could get $$$$$. Tazza I am having trouble finding your profile on MSN instant messenger. I really want to get it fixed but I hate to spend that much but it is not worth much with them leaking. I sent you a message did you get it? I am pondfishr on MSN too.
I will try and take some pics and measurements when i get a chance.
Pondfishr - i didn't get anything from you.... add taz38sup at yahoo.com.au replace the at with @ of course just helps prevent me getting spam.
The machine with MSN on it is on pretty much 24/7 so i will appear online.
 

Tazza

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I will try and take some pics and measurements when i get a chance.
Pondfishr - i didn't get anything from you.... add taz38sup at yahoo.com.au replace the at with @ of course just helps prevent me getting spam.
The machine with MSN on it is on pretty much 24/7 so i will appear online.
I took pictures of it. I tried to do battle with the pictures section of the forum but it refuses to work for me so they are at: http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/2007_06_09/
Most of the sizes are not critical, you can be a bit out and it will still work fine. I used a hose clamp to hold the 2 pieces together unlike the original that used a spring that i found didn't work well, thats the groove on the outside. You don't need it if you use a hose clamp, thats why sizes are not listed for it.
Hopefully i got sizes for everything else but if not just yell.
The way i did it was to machine to to rough size and cut it in half, then put it back in the lathe to finish it off so both halves separated correctly and are round.
If anything isn't clear just yell.
 

Tazza

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I took pictures of it. I tried to do battle with the pictures section of the forum but it refuses to work for me so they are at: http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/2007_06_09/
Most of the sizes are not critical, you can be a bit out and it will still work fine. I used a hose clamp to hold the 2 pieces together unlike the original that used a spring that i found didn't work well, thats the groove on the outside. You don't need it if you use a hose clamp, thats why sizes are not listed for it.
Hopefully i got sizes for everything else but if not just yell.
The way i did it was to machine to to rough size and cut it in half, then put it back in the lathe to finish it off so both halves separated correctly and are round.
If anything isn't clear just yell.
I can give you bearing and seal numbers. Let me know when you need them and i'll dust off my manual.
 

tac

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Jun 6, 2007
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I can give you bearing and seal numbers. Let me know when you need them and i'll dust off my manual.
Wow, that tool looks like it was half the job,, Nice, and the pics with the caliber are great, Ready for the numbers as soon as you post them, THanks again.
 

Tazza

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Wow, that tool looks like it was half the job,, Nice, and the pics with the caliber are great, Ready for the numbers as soon as you post them, THanks again.
The installation tool was pretty simple actually.
Bearings are:
LM104949 - Cone (actual bearing)
LM104912 - Cup
Seal is CR541523 - Chicago Rawhide, do NOT get a cheap seal, get the quality CR one.
Like i said, call your dealer for the seal price as mine were only slightly cheaper than from the dealer.
You may want to replace the wear sleeve too, they are cheap and easy to change. Its the part the seal runs on. They can be tough to remove at times, you may need to put a dob of weld on it and hit it with an air chisel or punch to get it moving. You may need to do it with the bearings too, they MAY need welding too.
See how you go.
 

Tazza

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The installation tool was pretty simple actually.
Bearings are:
LM104949 - Cone (actual bearing)
LM104912 - Cup
Seal is CR541523 - Chicago Rawhide, do NOT get a cheap seal, get the quality CR one.
Like i said, call your dealer for the seal price as mine were only slightly cheaper than from the dealer.
You may want to replace the wear sleeve too, they are cheap and easy to change. Its the part the seal runs on. They can be tough to remove at times, you may need to put a dob of weld on it and hit it with an air chisel or punch to get it moving. You may need to do it with the bearings too, they MAY need welding too.
See how you go.
One thing, to install the cone on the axle i used a piece of water pipe and cleaned it out to use as a drift to seal the bearing. It keeps it square and MUCH easier to seat. I will take a pic of the tool i used to turn the axle to crack the net inside too. You will need to crack the hydro motor lines too, you need to be able to turn the wheels to un-do and tighten the bolts inside the chain case.
Another tech that works for bobcat said he uses the hydrostatics to un-do and do the bolts up. He puts the spanner in place and starts the machine and uses the hydrostats to do the hard work. I don't recommend it, bit it can be done.
Like i have said, it is NOT a fun job, but it can be done. The easiest way is to remove the chassis from the chain case but thats not always an option.
Do note that the worn sprockets can be real sharp! i did cut a few fingers when i did it last, so be warned, try not to let them slip in your hands.
 

tac

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Jun 6, 2007
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One thing, to install the cone on the axle i used a piece of water pipe and cleaned it out to use as a drift to seal the bearing. It keeps it square and MUCH easier to seat. I will take a pic of the tool i used to turn the axle to crack the net inside too. You will need to crack the hydro motor lines too, you need to be able to turn the wheels to un-do and tighten the bolts inside the chain case.
Another tech that works for bobcat said he uses the hydrostatics to un-do and do the bolts up. He puts the spanner in place and starts the machine and uses the hydrostats to do the hard work. I don't recommend it, bit it can be done.
Like i have said, it is NOT a fun job, but it can be done. The easiest way is to remove the chassis from the chain case but thats not always an option.
Do note that the worn sprockets can be real sharp! i did cut a few fingers when i did it last, so be warned, try not to let them slip in your hands.
Tazza, Thanks so much, you have been more than helpful, I am sure glad i found this forum. Again thank you. for the Great and prompt responces. I will Post my progress, as soon as I get started.
 

Tazza

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Tazza, Thanks so much, you have been more than helpful, I am sure glad i found this forum. Again thank you. for the Great and prompt responces. I will Post my progress, as soon as I get started.
Not a problem.
If you are in there doing the rear seals i would do the front ones too.
I would remove the front plate the steering levers pass through with the levers. You want it as easy to get access to the rear of the chain case as you can. With one axle out you just need to crack the nut and put a long extension or extensions with a socket to remove the bolt. Don't do it the hard way. Remember to crack the lines to the motors, you don't want to fight against them to move the axles to un-do the bolts. Remove the lines and plug the ones to the pump only, not the motor. Use plastic ones on the motor to keep dirt out but you want to me able to move the oil to spin the motor. To turn the axles i used a piece of angle iron with 3 holes drilled to match the stud pattern. I welded a 6' length of water pipe to that for leverage, and YES you will need that leverage!!!! Put the nuts on the angle to make sure you don't damage the studs before turning when its tight. When its loose its not needed so much.
Be patient, this job will sure test your patience, trust me! even my cheating way of hanging the chain case in the air and used gravity to hold the sprockets and chain tested me. If you simply can't get the sprockets back on, you may need to break the chain and put in a new link. Don't make the mistake i did of putting the sprocket on and try to get the chain over it, it simply will not go. You must have the chain on the sprocket before you push the axle in place, jiggle it to align the splines and then start to knock the axle and seal in. If you don't do it this way you will need to bash the axle and new seal back out. This risks doing damage to the new bearing cone. The sprocket should start to engage before the seal reaches the opening of the axle tube. This is a 2 man job as the weight of the axle pushing on the cone tends to make the whole thing slip out and you drop the bearing on the inside of the chain case.
Use heavy grease on the bearings to help hold them in place.
Thats about all i can think of to help just take your time it will noy be pleasant but it is satisfying when you get it done your self! The front seals will be much easier as they are rite below the inspection plate.
Any problems or questions you have my e-mail or just post in here.
Good luck!!
 

antfarmer2

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Not a problem.
If you are in there doing the rear seals i would do the front ones too.
I would remove the front plate the steering levers pass through with the levers. You want it as easy to get access to the rear of the chain case as you can. With one axle out you just need to crack the nut and put a long extension or extensions with a socket to remove the bolt. Don't do it the hard way. Remember to crack the lines to the motors, you don't want to fight against them to move the axles to un-do the bolts. Remove the lines and plug the ones to the pump only, not the motor. Use plastic ones on the motor to keep dirt out but you want to me able to move the oil to spin the motor. To turn the axles i used a piece of angle iron with 3 holes drilled to match the stud pattern. I welded a 6' length of water pipe to that for leverage, and YES you will need that leverage!!!! Put the nuts on the angle to make sure you don't damage the studs before turning when its tight. When its loose its not needed so much.
Be patient, this job will sure test your patience, trust me! even my cheating way of hanging the chain case in the air and used gravity to hold the sprockets and chain tested me. If you simply can't get the sprockets back on, you may need to break the chain and put in a new link. Don't make the mistake i did of putting the sprocket on and try to get the chain over it, it simply will not go. You must have the chain on the sprocket before you push the axle in place, jiggle it to align the splines and then start to knock the axle and seal in. If you don't do it this way you will need to bash the axle and new seal back out. This risks doing damage to the new bearing cone. The sprocket should start to engage before the seal reaches the opening of the axle tube. This is a 2 man job as the weight of the axle pushing on the cone tends to make the whole thing slip out and you drop the bearing on the inside of the chain case.
Use heavy grease on the bearings to help hold them in place.
Thats about all i can think of to help just take your time it will noy be pleasant but it is satisfying when you get it done your self! The front seals will be much easier as they are rite below the inspection plate.
Any problems or questions you have my e-mail or just post in here.
Good luck!!
Here I go thanks Tazza
 

Tazza

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Thank you have it all apart putting the races in what a pain the inside are worse going to make a slam hammer to help
That will work. I made an attachment for a porta-power pull ram to pill mine in, but i have done a smaller machine by knocking them in.
 
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