New to Skid Steers

[woodsrat]

Hi, New to here and case equipment. Found a nice 1838 case skid steer think it is a 1999 with 1156 hrs. Working on changing the fluids now and going over things on it. Anyone know if I should be looking for any certain things that may go wrong on these machines with that kind of hrs. on it? Anyone know where to get the correct service manuals? found a few on ebay but was wondering if there is anything on line to just look at when working on it. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Tazza]

You are doing everything i'd do. Change all oils and filters then you have a good starting point. Chaincase and hydraulic/hydrostatic oil should be done evry 1000 hours.

 

[woodsrat]

You are doing everything i'd do. Change all oils and filters then you have a good starting point. Chaincase and hydraulic/hydrostatic oil should be done evry 1000 hours.

Thanks Tazza, I got the engine oil changed the ail filters and now moving onto the hydraulic fluid, Got a new filter but as I see it case calls for 10w30 with their additive. Does anyone switch over to the universal tractor fluid (UTF) ? I have UTF that I run in my older JD backhoe so was wondering so this way I only need one type of fluid for both. Had an oil guy check some specs for me and the 10w30 oil and the UTF that he checked for me both have a very close vosicity. Plus not sure what this already has as it don't look dark like a 10w 30 oil would. Also found that some of the jerking and grinding at start up seemed to be a rod end ball joint that is on the end of the rods coming off of the drive (control) sticks. Heard others talking about some movement at start up so this may be some of the same problems. Took picture of rod end but have no clue on how to post.

 

[Tazza]

Thanks Tazza, I got the engine oil changed the ail filters and now moving onto the hydraulic fluid, Got a new filter but as I see it case calls for 10w30 with their additive. Does anyone switch over to the universal tractor fluid (UTF) ? I have UTF that I run in my older JD backhoe so was wondering so this way I only need one type of fluid for both. Had an oil guy check some specs for me and the 10w30 oil and the UTF that he checked for me both have a very close vosicity. Plus not sure what this already has as it don't look dark like a 10w 30 oil would. Also found that some of the jerking and grinding at start up seemed to be a rod end ball joint that is on the end of the rods coming off of the drive (control) sticks. Heard others talking about some movement at start up so this may be some of the same problems. Took picture of rod end but have no clue on how to post.

If your UTF is close to 10W30, i see no problem using it. I run 20W50, 15W40 or there abouts as our summers get quite hot. Our winters never get bleow freezing.
For pictures, you need to host them on a site like timypic then link the file to your post. Load it in tinypic, right click then right click paste in your post, it should work.
Grinding could be from the drive pump fighting against the brake if things are worn. I have seen it many times that you gear a terrible grind at startup, but when you oull back on the steering levers it stops as you are takinging the load off the brake. Can you turn the brake off before starting to see if this could be the cause?

 

[woodsrat]

If your UTF is close to 10W30, i see no problem using it. I run 20W50, 15W40 or there abouts as our summers get quite hot. Our winters never get bleow freezing.
For pictures, you need to host them on a site like timypic then link the file to your post. Load it in tinypic, right click then right click paste in your post, it should work.
Grinding could be from the drive pump fighting against the brake if things are worn. I have seen it many times that you gear a terrible grind at startup, but when you oull back on the steering levers it stops as you are takinging the load off the brake. Can you turn the brake off before starting to see if this could be the cause?

Is there another way to turn the break off? Don't see any switches or anything so I figured the only way is that when the safety bar is back down but not sure about that either. After changing the one rod end it did get a lot better but I haven't had much time to play with it yet. Any special tricks to changing the fuel filters so that I don't lock anything up? Was also wonder why there is a small rubber gasket in the fuel filter box, Does that go on around the threads? Would not think so but will look at the old filter when I do get around to changing it. Thanks for any replies.

 

[Tazza]

Is there another way to turn the break off? Don't see any switches or anything so I figured the only way is that when the safety bar is back down but not sure about that either. After changing the one rod end it did get a lot better but I haven't had much time to play with it yet. Any special tricks to changing the fuel filters so that I don't lock anything up? Was also wonder why there is a small rubber gasket in the fuel filter box, Does that go on around the threads? Would not think so but will look at the old filter when I do get around to changing it. Thanks for any replies.

Sadly i haven't worked on a Case machine before, so i can't really give specific advise. Most machines with electric brakes you need to power the hold coil and energize the pull coil momentarily to get it to unlock. I'd have thought there would be an override switch to allow you to move it though.
No real advise for fuel filters. Install and prime the system to bleed the air out. Filling with fuel first can help speed that up though, depending on the style of filter. If spin on, fill with fuel, if the one with a glass bowl, you really can't do that.
Hopefully someone with a machine like yours can give more specific advise.

 

[woodsrat]

Sadly i haven't worked on a Case machine before, so i can't really give specific advise. Most machines with electric brakes you need to power the hold coil and energize the pull coil momentarily to get it to unlock. I'd have thought there would be an override switch to allow you to move it though.
No real advise for fuel filters. Install and prime the system to bleed the air out. Filling with fuel first can help speed that up though, depending on the style of filter. If spin on, fill with fuel, if the one with a glass bowl, you really can't do that.
Hopefully someone with a machine like yours can give more specific advise.

Ok guys I got some of the things worked out on the machine. Now I am thinking about winter and want to use this thing for plowing snow. I have a 1/2 mile dirt driveway and was wondering if a snow plow would be my best bet or some other type of attachment? plus does anyone that plows with these machines is chains a must?

 

[JDWY]

Ok guys I got some of the things worked out on the machine. Now I am thinking about winter and want to use this thing for plowing snow. I have a 1/2 mile dirt driveway and was wondering if a snow plow would be my best bet or some other type of attachment? plus does anyone that plows with these machines is chains a must?

I do quite a bit of snow removal around our place with my New Holland and have never felt I needed chains. I'll slip a wheel now and then but no big deal. Of course different areas have different type snow. I'm in Wyoming and most all of ours is really dry. Guess you could give it a try and go from there.

 

[Phil314]

I do quite a bit of snow removal around our place with my New Holland and have never felt I needed chains. I'll slip a wheel now and then but no big deal. Of course different areas have different type snow. I'm in Wyoming and most all of ours is really dry. Guess you could give it a try and go from there.

I'm in MN and use my skid mostly for plowing. I've got a 7.5 western angle plow that works great. We get thick heavy snow which can be tough to plow, but the worst is drift snow. It sets like concrete. I run chains on all 4 wheels, that's the only way to get through it here. This year I think I'm going to try a dedicated set of snow tires.

 

[woodsrat]

I'm in MN and use my skid mostly for plowing. I've got a 7.5 western angle plow that works great. We get thick heavy snow which can be tough to plow, but the worst is drift snow. It sets like concrete. I run chains on all 4 wheels, that's the only way to get through it here. This year I think I'm going to try a dedicated set of snow tires.

Thanks guys for the replies and to let you know I'm in northern Pa. so sometimes it snow and sometimes we just get rain anymore, No good snow in the last few years but I am sure it will get back to us again. My skid steer is a 1838 case and I was also wondering if I will need to put wheel spacers on if I need to use chains on it. Phil314, Is your plow a steel one or one of the plastic with steel reinforcement?

 

[Phil314]

Thanks guys for the replies and to let you know I'm in northern Pa. so sometimes it snow and sometimes we just get rain anymore, No good snow in the last few years but I am sure it will get back to us again. My skid steer is a 1838 case and I was also wondering if I will need to put wheel spacers on if I need to use chains on it. Phil314, Is your plow a steel one or one of the plastic with steel reinforcement?

I do not use wheel spacer. On the 1845c there is enough room to just put chains on it. Not sure about your model. The plow is a western unimount originally for a chevy truck, it's steel. I welded up a skid steer mounting plate that matches the plow mounts. That way I can switch the plow between the truck and the skid steer.

 

[woodsrat]

I do not use wheel spacer. On the 1845c there is enough room to just put chains on it. Not sure about your model. The plow is a western unimount originally for a chevy truck, it's steel. I welded up a skid steer mounting plate that matches the plow mounts. That way I can switch the plow between the truck and the skid steer.

Phil314, What you did is what I was thinking of doing cause I have a fisher plow that is on my 1 ton dump truck that has some issues and is stuck in low range now so I was thinking of trying that with the plow but didn't know if the 8 foot fisher plow would be to heavy for the skid steer? What did you do for the hose couplers? do they have adapters that you can use so that you can still put it onto the truck when needed. Thanks

 

[Phil314]

Phil314, What you did is what I was thinking of doing cause I have a fisher plow that is on my 1 ton dump truck that has some issues and is stuck in low range now so I was thinking of trying that with the plow but didn't know if the 8 foot fisher plow would be to heavy for the skid steer? What did you do for the hose couplers? do they have adapters that you can use so that you can still put it onto the truck when needed. Thanks

I had flatface couplers on my skid. So I made a short hose adapter with flatface on one end and whatever kind of connector matched the plow pump connectors on the other end. That way I could still connect directly to the truck plow pump. Then using the adapter, easily connect to the flatface on the skid with the adapters. If that makes sense. It will really depend on what is on your plow and what is on your skid steer.

 

[woodsrat]

I had flatface couplers on my skid. So I made a short hose adapter with flatface on one end and whatever kind of connector matched the plow pump connectors on the other end. That way I could still connect directly to the truck plow pump. Then using the adapter, easily connect to the flatface on the skid with the adapters. If that makes sense. It will really depend on what is on your plow and what is on your skid steer.

Ok Guys I'm back here again. Borrowed a grapple clamp from a guy and cant seem to push in the universal hose fittings on the skid steer to get the other hoses connected. They appear to look the same but can not get them in far enough to lock up. Any trick to this. Thanks for any help