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strokin83

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
6
Hey everyone I just purchased my first loader. It is a Bobcat T200. I have few questions due to not having a service manual yet. First where is the hydraulic filter on this machine? I'm guessing its under the cab somewhere. And how do you lift the cab? I'm pretty mechanical but I've never touched a bobcat outside of changing the oil. My machine has the 73hp Deutz is there anything I should know about it for preventative maintenance? I plan on doing a few flush oil changes in 20 hr intervals due to not knowing the history of the machine. But I would like to change all fluids for sure. And how and where do you change the hydro fluid? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

siduramaxde

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
362
I think if you do a search on this site you will find all sorts of info. I have a T200 and a couple things I can tell you is to change the drive carrier oil often. Don't forget to change case drain filters. If case drain filters are plugged the drive carrier could fill with hydro oil which is not good. Replace your timing belt. A broken timing belt will result in bent push rods. The hydro filter is behind the cab and can be accessed by lifting the cab. To lift the cab just remove the 2 bolts on the front lower corners of the cab. The drain hose for the hydro system is located under the hydro tank. There is an access panel down by the track on the same side of the machine as the sight glass for hydro fluid. Once that is off there is a hose that you can pull out to drain the fluid.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
1,290
welcome to the bobcat world. glad to have you. i think you will be pleased. you did not mention the hrs on unit. check out post on the( 863 SAME ENG} i strongly reccomend to all purchases of used equip. wether at auction or from privete. call the dealer. have them do youre first service. if done in the field you can watch and ask questions. (kinda sucks for the tech but what heck thats what you pay us for) advantges to this is the first thing he is going to do is pull the code history, all g series have an onboard computer that only the dealer can access. it will store history of all codes and shutdowns. for instance if it has any shutdowns for clogged air filters. you may want to rethink the purchase? these unit will code dirty air filter long before they go into shutdown. got one the shop right now with a smoked eng. 84 hrs ago got dirty code owner pulled filter and tried to clean.(note on this DO NOT CLEAN AIR FILTERS THROW AWAY INSTALL NEW) 18 dollar filter 6000 dollar eng. he forgot the wing nut and seal. 1)2 teaspoon dust will drop an eng in 8 hrs . once restriction is removed it wont code. doesnt mean its not sucking dirt. just no restriction. he will also update software . if push and hold second button from left on left hand dash it will tell what version is in it. currently at 79 something. if it at 10 you can get a good idea of what maint has done . i often hear about what a great deal they got on unit. only to turn around and a 5000. quote. and at that point youre upside down. a dealer rep can give you a pretty good idea of what you bought what it is going to take to square it away from the knickel dime to the major. up toyou to elect to repair but you will have some idea where you stand. and peace of mind knowing all maint has been done and a fresh start from here on out
 
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strokin83

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
6
welcome to the bobcat world. glad to have you. i think you will be pleased. you did not mention the hrs on unit. check out post on the( 863 SAME ENG} i strongly reccomend to all purchases of used equip. wether at auction or from privete. call the dealer. have them do youre first service. if done in the field you can watch and ask questions. (kinda sucks for the tech but what heck thats what you pay us for) advantges to this is the first thing he is going to do is pull the code history, all g series have an onboard computer that only the dealer can access. it will store history of all codes and shutdowns. for instance if it has any shutdowns for clogged air filters. you may want to rethink the purchase? these unit will code dirty air filter long before they go into shutdown. got one the shop right now with a smoked eng. 84 hrs ago got dirty code owner pulled filter and tried to clean.(note on this DO NOT CLEAN AIR FILTERS THROW AWAY INSTALL NEW) 18 dollar filter 6000 dollar eng. he forgot the wing nut and seal. 1)2 teaspoon dust will drop an eng in 8 hrs . once restriction is removed it wont code. doesnt mean its not sucking dirt. just no restriction. he will also update software . if push and hold second button from left on left hand dash it will tell what version is in it. currently at 79 something. if it at 10 you can get a good idea of what maint has done . i often hear about what a great deal they got on unit. only to turn around and a 5000. quote. and at that point youre upside down. a dealer rep can give you a pretty good idea of what you bought what it is going to take to square it away from the knickel dime to the major. up toyou to elect to repair but you will have some idea where you stand. and peace of mind knowing all maint has been done and a fresh start from here on out
Thanks guys I appreciate all your help. I ordered a bobcat service manual so that will help. The machine has 3200 hours on it. I'm pretty sure the previous owner only owned it for 200-300hrs and he wasn't very educated on maint. I changed the oil and the fuel filter. I replaced with Napa filters since they were a heck of a lot closer. I priced the hydraulic filter today and it's $56 from Napa that kinda blew my mind. I've heard some people say to run only Bobcat hydro fluid and I've heard of others running 10w40 what is the cheapest and best? I plan on doing a hydraulic fluid change soon since the filter was dated back in 2007. Overall the machine is in good shape. The only thing that has me concerned is how much it smokes when your moving forward fast. It's black smoke kinda like it's over fueling or something. It doesn't smoke at idle but when you push the controls forward it smokes and sounds like it's bogging a little bit but it moves fine. I was unloading 2000lb pallets off a truck today and it acts the same loaded or unloaded. I guess we'll see what happens. The other issue is that the Parking brake doesn't work. I'm not too worried about it unless it's an easy fix. I need to do some more research on how to change the drive carrier oil and case drain filters. Does anyone have any insight on this? I would sure appreciate it. Thanks again.
 

siduramaxde

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
362
Thanks guys I appreciate all your help. I ordered a bobcat service manual so that will help. The machine has 3200 hours on it. I'm pretty sure the previous owner only owned it for 200-300hrs and he wasn't very educated on maint. I changed the oil and the fuel filter. I replaced with Napa filters since they were a heck of a lot closer. I priced the hydraulic filter today and it's $56 from Napa that kinda blew my mind. I've heard some people say to run only Bobcat hydro fluid and I've heard of others running 10w40 what is the cheapest and best? I plan on doing a hydraulic fluid change soon since the filter was dated back in 2007. Overall the machine is in good shape. The only thing that has me concerned is how much it smokes when your moving forward fast. It's black smoke kinda like it's over fueling or something. It doesn't smoke at idle but when you push the controls forward it smokes and sounds like it's bogging a little bit but it moves fine. I was unloading 2000lb pallets off a truck today and it acts the same loaded or unloaded. I guess we'll see what happens. The other issue is that the Parking brake doesn't work. I'm not too worried about it unless it's an easy fix. I need to do some more research on how to change the drive carrier oil and case drain filters. Does anyone have any insight on this? I would sure appreciate it. Thanks again.
I think you may be surprised if checked out bobcats prices on filters and fluid. I don't put too many hrs on my machine but I usually just go to the dealer and get a filter "kit". The kit has every filter(except case drain filters) in it for my machine and it is not too expensive for what you get. Also, Bobcat hydro oil is not too expensive either. As far as the the carrier oil, it's probably the easiest fluid on the machine to change. If you look at the sprocket you should see a "plug" that takes a small allen wrench. Remove the plug when it is at the lowest point. There wont be much that comes out and it shout be fairly clean oils that comes out. Its a special oil that only bobcat sells and it is expensive. The case drain filters are the worst to change. IRC there are 2 case drain filters. They are back by the hydro pumps. They look like small round silver canisters and they are in-line. they are not fun to change.
 
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strokin83

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
6
I think you may be surprised if checked out bobcats prices on filters and fluid. I don't put too many hrs on my machine but I usually just go to the dealer and get a filter "kit". The kit has every filter(except case drain filters) in it for my machine and it is not too expensive for what you get. Also, Bobcat hydro oil is not too expensive either. As far as the the carrier oil, it's probably the easiest fluid on the machine to change. If you look at the sprocket you should see a "plug" that takes a small allen wrench. Remove the plug when it is at the lowest point. There wont be much that comes out and it shout be fairly clean oils that comes out. Its a special oil that only bobcat sells and it is expensive. The case drain filters are the worst to change. IRC there are 2 case drain filters. They are back by the hydro pumps. They look like small round silver canisters and they are in-line. they are not fun to change.
Does anyone know how much hydro oil I'll need to drain/refill? And also what oil do I use for the carrier oil? Thanks
 

7LBSSMALLIE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
1,290
Does anyone know how much hydro oil I'll need to drain/refill? And also what oil do I use for the carrier oil? Thanks
as it stands rightt now there is no suitable replacement for bobcat hyd hyrdo fluid (that is the co line) the fact that youre looking at 10 grand in components should convice you. 3 2.5s will get you with some to spare. as for carrier oil bobcat only !to. service interval has been recently revised. to every 500 hrs(in extreme conditions)as far as im concerned thats every day. new motor is about 3000.00 i think one bottle will get you two changes both motors. check that, as far as drained oil being clean that has not been my experaince .
 

7LBSSMALLIE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
1,290
as it stands rightt now there is no suitable replacement for bobcat hyd hyrdo fluid (that is the co line) the fact that youre looking at 10 grand in components should convice you. 3 2.5s will get you with some to spare. as for carrier oil bobcat only !to. service interval has been recently revised. to every 500 hrs(in extreme conditions)as far as im concerned thats every day. new motor is about 3000.00 i think one bottle will get you two changes both motors. check that, as far as drained oil being clean that has not been my experaince .
how did it go you get t code list? please share
 

Guitarded

New member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1
I run 15w40 in my hydraulics and engine on my 743 & 863. My Bobcat dealer told me the 15w40 would be alright to run with the conditions I ran the machine in.
Sorry for the formatting. I'm not sure why my carriage returns aren't coming through, and why it all runs together. I picked up a T200 recently myself. I think it was a pretty good deal, although only because I did most of the work. The previous owner bought it at a little over 2000 hours. He changed oil and filters immediately. At around 2220 hours, his left drive motor started leaking, and he pulled it, and had a local mechanic rebuild it. He replaced all the seals, and the inner and outer bearings. At the same time, he replaced the oil and filters again (mobile 1 synthetic both times), as well as the tracks. Right at 50 hours later, the same drive moter started puking oil. His mechanic wouldn't warranty the motor, and the local bobcat deal quoted him 6k+ to replace the motor and sprocket. He sold it to me for what he owed on it. I pulled the drive motor out, and took it to a hydraulic shop, and the previous mechanic had put the shaft seal in backwards, and asembled it dry which tore and cut the seals and o rings. I put the rebuilt motor back in, and it's tight as a frogs butt. I then replaced both air filters, the main hydraulic filter, fuel filter, air cabin filter, and the heater filter. When I went to replace the case drain filters, it turns out that I have a later model where bobcat went from one filter for each motor to a single filter for both. I removed the filter, and there was a lot of galvanic corrosion between it and the clamp. I went ahead and bought two new filter assemblies from Bobcat ($40 each), and put it back to having one case drain filter per motor. At the same time, I also bought two fluid pressure switches (http://www.pvs-sensors.com/documents/BPA-BPF.pdf) for $42 each, and two light inserts for the front switch assembly. I calibrated the switch to connect at 80 psi since normal case drain pressure is supposed to be 30-50psi. Using shrink wrap, and nylon mesh tubing, I cabled the two switches up through the cab. It pulls 12v on one side from the battery, through the switches, to the lights, and then to ground. When the filter becomes clogged, and case drain pressure increases, the switch should throw, and the light should illuminate, letting me know that one of the motors is probably having issues. By separating the filters again, I don't have one motor/filter cause the other motor to blow its seals, and the pressure sensor should alert me to issues well before they cause irreversible damage. I don't have direct experience to say what I have done with the case drain filters is awesome and will save me more money down the line, but I believe it will, and gives me a little more peace of mind for only another $120 over just replacing the one filter.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,829
Sorry for the formatting. I'm not sure why my carriage returns aren't coming through, and why it all runs together. I picked up a T200 recently myself. I think it was a pretty good deal, although only because I did most of the work. The previous owner bought it at a little over 2000 hours. He changed oil and filters immediately. At around 2220 hours, his left drive motor started leaking, and he pulled it, and had a local mechanic rebuild it. He replaced all the seals, and the inner and outer bearings. At the same time, he replaced the oil and filters again (mobile 1 synthetic both times), as well as the tracks. Right at 50 hours later, the same drive moter started puking oil. His mechanic wouldn't warranty the motor, and the local bobcat deal quoted him 6k+ to replace the motor and sprocket. He sold it to me for what he owed on it. I pulled the drive motor out, and took it to a hydraulic shop, and the previous mechanic had put the shaft seal in backwards, and asembled it dry which tore and cut the seals and o rings. I put the rebuilt motor back in, and it's tight as a frogs butt. I then replaced both air filters, the main hydraulic filter, fuel filter, air cabin filter, and the heater filter. When I went to replace the case drain filters, it turns out that I have a later model where bobcat went from one filter for each motor to a single filter for both. I removed the filter, and there was a lot of galvanic corrosion between it and the clamp. I went ahead and bought two new filter assemblies from Bobcat ($40 each), and put it back to having one case drain filter per motor. At the same time, I also bought two fluid pressure switches (http://www.pvs-sensors.com/documents/BPA-BPF.pdf) for $42 each, and two light inserts for the front switch assembly. I calibrated the switch to connect at 80 psi since normal case drain pressure is supposed to be 30-50psi. Using shrink wrap, and nylon mesh tubing, I cabled the two switches up through the cab. It pulls 12v on one side from the battery, through the switches, to the lights, and then to ground. When the filter becomes clogged, and case drain pressure increases, the switch should throw, and the light should illuminate, letting me know that one of the motors is probably having issues. By separating the filters again, I don't have one motor/filter cause the other motor to blow its seals, and the pressure sensor should alert me to issues well before they cause irreversible damage. I don't have direct experience to say what I have done with the case drain filters is awesome and will save me more money down the line, but I believe it will, and gives me a little more peace of mind for only another $120 over just replacing the one filter.
Well done, shame bobcat didn't think of that as a critical system to shut down if it detected high case drain pressure.
As for your formatting, go into your profile, click the box that says use HTML editor, your lines should show up if you post with interenet explorer.
 

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