New Holland LX865

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

Wolfman35

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
10
I am new to this forum. I just purchased a New Holland LX865 skid steer. According to the owner, the motor has recently been rebuilt. My mechanic thinks this is accurate. Supposedly, it has about 17 hours on the new motor. The machine has 3100 hours. It starts great. No blow by. Runs smooth, except for one thing I will mention. The hydraulics seem strong and responsive. I have a couple concerns and am hoping for some advice to get me heading in the right direction. 1) Between the motor and the "bell housing" on the right side, there is a pretty good gap--not quite, but almost 1/8". I checked the oil level in the bell housing/wingbox. It was a little low, so I topped it off. I am not detecting any fluid leaking out of this gap. My question is, why is there a gap? Is something out of alignment? Or is the gasket just really thick and perhaps the outside edge is missing? I tried to paste a photo of the gap, but cannot figure out how. 2) When you start up the machine, it fires right up. It idles smooth. If you give it throttle, it throttles up smooth to about 3/4 throttle. Then it develops a significant vibration with kind of a loud harmonic hum. If you throttle back down to 1/2 throttle, where it was previously smooth, the vibration and hum continue. If you throttle all the way down to idle it goes away. Then you can throttle back up to 1/2 and it remains smooth. Continue to throttle to 3/4 or full and the vibration and hum return. If you run and work the machine at 1/2 throttle it does fine, until you hit a bump or jar the machine, them it breaks into the vibration and hum and you have to throttle down to make it go away. It does have a hydraulic leak somewhere on the right hydraulic pump under the seat. When I got the machine, it was low. I filled to to the correct level and have cycled the boom up and down several times slowly and drove it slowly hoping to get any air out of the system. Any input would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
 

antfarmer2

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
2,801
You have to post the pic in something like photo bucket then put the link in here..........does it have ujoints or a belt to drive if ujoints stop running
 

Mike10

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,077
The gap is filled with silicone from the factory, nothing to worry about, just seal it up with silicone........Check your motor mounts for the vibration. Normally the vibration is worse between 1300 and 1800 rpm. That is a fact with 3 cly engines.
 
OP
OP
W

Wolfman35

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
10
The gap is filled with silicone from the factory, nothing to worry about, just seal it up with silicone........Check your motor mounts for the vibration. Normally the vibration is worse between 1300 and 1800 rpm. That is a fact with 3 cly engines.
Well, I finally dug into skid steer. Mike10, you were right. The mount between hydraulic pumps was missing! I also had hydraulic fluid leaking into gear box. I read previous threads about this issue. Mike10 suggested rear pump shaft seals. I pulled both pumps. I order a new motor mount and seals. I have one question for mike10--the hydraulic pump seals I need to replace are the outermost rear seals, part number 703639, correct? Thank you for all the advice!
 

Mike10

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,077
Well, I finally dug into skid steer. Mike10, you were right. The mount between hydraulic pumps was missing! I also had hydraulic fluid leaking into gear box. I read previous threads about this issue. Mike10 suggested rear pump shaft seals. I pulled both pumps. I order a new motor mount and seals. I have one question for mike10--the hydraulic pump seals I need to replace are the outermost rear seals, part number 703639, correct? Thank you for all the advice!
That is the correct seal. A tip when installing the seal. You can pull the shaft out of the pump slightly so you can start the seal lip over the shoulder on the shaft and then push the assembled seal and shaft into the pump housing. You will need a seal driver to fully seat the seal. Trying to install the seal without pulling the shaft will almost always result in the lip of the seal folding backwards causing a worse leak than you had before.
 
Top