ls170 will not start

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Jesse8167

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Sep 20, 2015
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Hello, Just looking for some ideas on a ls170 that I just purchased; it was not running and had been sitting outside for about 2 years. A little run down on the machine, it is a 2000 New Holland ls170 with 1485hrs. The previous owner said and it needed a battery and starter. Someone tried steeling it so the ignition switch was gone and I bought it not knowing a whole lot about it. I started by putting a new ignition switch, starter, battery, seat safety wiring harness, starter relay and inner safety start relay (6 pin relay on left side of engine compartment panel). I did all that in steps as I diagnosed and traced the problem. Now after all that it turns over but still won't start. I checked the fuel shut valve and it is getting power. I think it is working because I can put my hand on it and feel it engage when the key is turned on. I cracked the injector lines and they're all getting fuel. Pulled the four glow plugs and bench tested them and they all turned red hot in about 6 seconds. The next thing I did was a compression test, and they were 250 275 250 400 psi... but I have no idea what the compression should be. If anyone has any suggestions they will be greatly appreciated because I've been beating my head against the wall.
 

Mike10

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If you are getting smoke out the exhaust pipe when cranking then you are getting fuel into the engine, if no smoke than no fuel to start.
 
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Jesse8167

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If you are getting smoke out the exhaust pipe when cranking then you are getting fuel into the engine, if no smoke than no fuel to start.
When I first tried starting it I wasn't getting any smoke but after bleeding the injectors I'm getting smoke now but still won't start. After cranking it over I pulled the glow plugs out and they were wet so I know it's getting fuel. I'm thinking my problem is compression do know how much it should have in order for it the start.
 

Tazza

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When I first tried starting it I wasn't getting any smoke but after bleeding the injectors I'm getting smoke now but still won't start. After cranking it over I pulled the glow plugs out and they were wet so I know it's getting fuel. I'm thinking my problem is compression do know how much it should have in order for it the start.
That compression is quite low, you should be getting 400 PSI or more, the difference between cylinders is meant to be no more than 10%
I'd check the valve clearance to see if it's too small, lowering your compression. If it's still low, it may be time to pull the head to check that the valves are seating.
 
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Jesse8167

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That compression is quite low, you should be getting 400 PSI or more, the difference between cylinders is meant to be no more than 10%
I'd check the valve clearance to see if it's too small, lowering your compression. If it's still low, it may be time to pull the head to check that the valves are seating.
Ok thanks for the reply, this is really the first diesel I've ever worked on. What would be the best way to check the valve clearance and what should it be?
 

Tazza

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Ok thanks for the reply, this is really the first diesel I've ever worked on. What would be the best way to check the valve clearance and what should it be?
Mike will hopefully pop in with accurate figures, but from what i know of other diesels:
Valve clearance should be around .008" at TDC
The hardest part is getting to TDC but sometimes it's marked on the pulley on the crank. One way to work out what cylinder is firing is to take the injector lines off at the pump and rotate the engine. With the fuel cut solenoid in the correct position to start, you should see a drop of fuel bubble up a few degrees before TDC.
Diesels are pretty much the same as their petrol friends, just they don't have spark plugs and run higher compression ratios.
 
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Jesse8167

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Mike will hopefully pop in with accurate figures, but from what i know of other diesels:
Valve clearance should be around .008" at TDC
The hardest part is getting to TDC but sometimes it's marked on the pulley on the crank. One way to work out what cylinder is firing is to take the injector lines off at the pump and rotate the engine. With the fuel cut solenoid in the correct position to start, you should see a drop of fuel bubble up a few degrees before TDC.
Diesels are pretty much the same as their petrol friends, just they don't have spark plugs and run higher compression ratios.
Thanks for the help, I'll try that before I go any further. I ordered a repair manual so between the help I got from here and the manual maybe I can get her to light. Thanks again!!!
 
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