My New Holland LS 170 starts with no problem but if you run a while then shut off it will not start back up unless you let it cool down or pour water on engine to cool it back down. What is causing this problem and how do I fix it? I assume some sensor is over heating.
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No I have not will this help the problem or is there something I need to replace?
frogfarmer
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There are not any engine sensors that would cause this but a problem with the panel might if it failed to send current to the fuel solenoid. From what you describe I would suspect injectors. The fact that you can cool the engine and get it to start kind of eliminates the panel. I would check all the obvious first and make sure the fuel lines and filters are in good condition including the return line to the tank from the injectors. Check the coolant temp at shut down to make sure you don't have an overheat condition. Just because the panel says its good doesn't mean it is. If all this checks out and you still have the issue I would check the valve clearance. Factory spec for the valves is .008 so anything less would be suspect. Also low coolant levels will cause the injectors to lock up because they overheat.
The loader just makes a clicking noise it is not fuel related.
Coolant temp. never gets over about 160.
I think for one thing your thermostat is stuck open and needs replacing . When you cool it with water where do you mostly pour it? You could try just pouring it on the starter and so on. Although water on a hot engine can lead to bad things happening.
antfarmer2
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Starter soliniod is getting weak
antfarmer2
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Also would clean battery terminals first
frogfarmer
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"The loader just makes a clicking noise it is not fuel related." Most likely not heat related and just coincidence. Where the negative connects to the engine block is somewhat hidden and could be the issue. If you raise the seat to get a look at the rear of the engine the cable bolts to the block near the top. There is also a ground strap from the starter to the frame that has been known to need a good cleaning. Solenoid is also a possibility but my starters have always gone several thousand hours before need for repair.
Still having the problem after checking these things. There are 2 blocks under the fuse box that I think is the problem, does anyone know what these do?
Do you mean the engine room fuse box? In the box are relays is that what you mean? Go down to Dellys brake thread and download that manual it will cover the 170.
The outside relay is the start relay and the one closest to the engine is for the glow plugs. Antfarmer comments is where you need to start. If you are hearing a single click then you are hearing the glow plug relay. If it is a rapid clicking sound then you have either low voltage or high current draw. You will need a helper and a volt meter. Before shutting the engine down, raise and lock the boom up. Take the volt meter probes and place then on the battery posts and have your friend attempt to start the engine. If there is a significant voltage drop and you hear the clicking then your battery may be bad. If the voltage does not drop then you have a bad connection between the battery posts and the cables. Next continue to hold the positive probe on the positive terminal and take the negative probe and touch it to the frame where you can get a good ground. Again attempt to start. If there is no voltage drop then the battery is not getting ground to the frame. This time place the negative probe on the negative terminal and the positive on the alt hot terminal and attempt to start. If there is a significant drop then there is a bad connection or bad cable between the battery and starter. You can also remove the outer relay cover under the fuse panel and attempt to jump between the two large posts and see if it will crank. If it does then the relay could be bad. Be sure the parking brake is applied and better yet disconnect the wire from the fuel shut off solenoid. If it still will not crank then the starter is probably the problem. I vote for the starter.
I am going to begin printing out some of these really helpful posts out for my own use when its below zero and the machine is stuck in the driveway. A lot of this stuff is not in the books and I for one appreciate the help from you guys who work on these things regularly.
antfarmer2
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Could be loose starter bolts
No loose bolts, not a problem with battery. The machine starts very easy when cool but when it gets so warm it will not restart till it cools back down below around 85 degrees. When you try to start it then it makes 1 click and that's all it does. Would the starter relay be the problem?
antfarmer2
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Yes that could be it try jumping it becareful it will make you jump
Run it till it's warm and then switch the start relay with the preheat relay, they are side by side in the box. They do interchange. If you downloaded the book electrical starts on 55-6 I think.
Did you check it out as Mike10 suggested?
Remove the cover over the outer relay under the engine fuse panel. Using a voltmeter or test light, see if you have power to both large posts of the relay when someone turns the key to start. If you have power at both large posts then the problem is at the starter or the wire from the relay to the starter. If you do not have power then place your probe on one and then the other of the small posts and see if you have power at one of them when the key is turned to the start position. If no power at the small posts then repost and we will go to the next step. One of the small posts is for a ground wire, you might also want to check if the relay is properly grounding by placing one probe on the small ground post and the other probe on the large post which has power from the battery.
