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Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
Both of the seat switches check good. Could it be possible that one of lock out solenoids could be bad? Is there a good way to ckeck them? Thands so much for the replyCheck your seat and seat bar switches, even a seat belt switch if fitted. If it thinks you are not in the seat, it will lock you out.
Its always possible. You should be able to run power from a battery to see if the coil is working, even the stem may be stuck preventing it from un-locking. I don't know NH machines, so i can't tell you where to look.Both of the seat switches check good. Could it be possible that one of lock out solenoids could be bad? Is there a good way to ckeck them? Thands so much for the reply
I know the newer Bobcats have solenoids that lock the operation of the lift and tilt pedals, both controled by the computer to lock and un-lock.
When you say both seat switches test good do you mean you have two underseat switches? Some models do and some only have one. The underseat switches and the seat belt switch which is in the buckle end both have to be closed send power to the hyd solenoids.Both of the seat switches check good. Could it be possible that one of lock out solenoids could be bad? Is there a good way to ckeck them? Thands so much for the reply
you and me both olblue.When you say both seat switches test good do you mean you have two underseat switches? Some models do and some only have one. The underseat switches and the seat belt switch which is in the buckle end both have to be closed send power to the hyd solenoids.
sitting in the seat and look down between your legs/feet and you see what looks like the driveshaft tunnel in your car. It is held in by 8 bolts. under that tunnel are the pedal solenoids. best way to check them is take them out and put 12v to them and see if they work. make sure to clean the area very well before you remove them so no dirt gets in the spools.
But, the first thing I would do is bypass the seatbelt switch and see if that does it, if not bypass the seat switches also and see if that does it. I'm going down your same path as we speak. If I had it to do over again I would put manual switches in and leave the seat and seat belt switches abandonded. But I am the only one that uses my machine, if you have others use your machine you will need to replace the switches with factory.
tractor is fixed....... First of all, I just want to say a great big thanks to everyone who commented on my post and tried to offer ideas and suggestions thanks again. Here is what I found. When the pedals locked I went straight to the seat belt and seat switches. After checking both switches, they were working properly. Then I removed the cover between your feet to get to the lock out solenoids. I unpluded the two connections and determined I had power going to both solenoids. I then cranked the machine and pluged up the solenoid that feeds the boom up and the boom raised. Next I unpluged that solenoid and pluged up the tilt solenoid and nothing happened. I then unpluged that solenoid and removed it. I got two jumper wires and tested it on a 12v battery and the solenoid worked, but the outside housing of the solenoid got hot very quick,so figured it must be shorted internally. When I called NH they had one for $201.16. Makes me wonder how they can sell them so cheap. LOL I put the new solenoid in and everything worked perfectly. I hated to spend that 200, but I have a seven year old son who is resdy to get on the machine, and I don't want an accident because I jumped out all of the safety switches. I don't want to mislead anyone on any information I have given, so if anyone knows of anything I did wrong please post it. Without having a detailed manual or wiring schematic, You just try to trouble shoot the best you know how. I'm not a NH tech, I'm just an old redneck from Georgia. I hope this info might help someone else sometime. Thanks again for everyones help. Shaneyou and me both olblue.
sitting in the seat and look down between your legs/feet and you see what looks like the driveshaft tunnel in your car. It is held in by 8 bolts. under that tunnel are the pedal solenoids. best way to check them is take them out and put 12v to them and see if they work. make sure to clean the area very well before you remove them so no dirt gets in the spools.
But, the first thing I would do is bypass the seatbelt switch and see if that does it, if not bypass the seat switches also and see if that does it. I'm going down your same path as we speak. If I had it to do over again I would put manual switches in and leave the seat and seat belt switches abandonded. But I am the only one that uses my machine, if you have others use your machine you will need to replace the switches with factory.
Good to hear it is fixed. It makes you wonder why there is no cheaper source for these parts, I doubt that NH owns a solenoid factory so they must buy them somewhere.tractor is fixed....... First of all, I just want to say a great big thanks to everyone who commented on my post and tried to offer ideas and suggestions thanks again. Here is what I found. When the pedals locked I went straight to the seat belt and seat switches. After checking both switches, they were working properly. Then I removed the cover between your feet to get to the lock out solenoids. I unpluded the two connections and determined I had power going to both solenoids. I then cranked the machine and pluged up the solenoid that feeds the boom up and the boom raised. Next I unpluged that solenoid and pluged up the tilt solenoid and nothing happened. I then unpluged that solenoid and removed it. I got two jumper wires and tested it on a 12v battery and the solenoid worked, but the outside housing of the solenoid got hot very quick,so figured it must be shorted internally. When I called NH they had one for $201.16. Makes me wonder how they can sell them so cheap. LOL I put the new solenoid in and everything worked perfectly. I hated to spend that 200, but I have a seven year old son who is resdy to get on the machine, and I don't want an accident because I jumped out all of the safety switches. I don't want to mislead anyone on any information I have given, so if anyone knows of anything I did wrong please post it. Without having a detailed manual or wiring schematic, You just try to trouble shoot the best you know how. I'm not a NH tech, I'm just an old redneck from Georgia. I hope this info might help someone else sometime. Thanks again for everyones help. Shane
Thats rather harsh, that was the coil only? or did it have the stem too?Good to hear it is fixed. It makes you wonder why there is no cheaper source for these parts, I doubt that NH owns a solenoid factory so they must buy them somewhere.
Still, glad its all sorted out.
It was the non mechanical solenoid.Thats rather harsh, that was the coil only? or did it have the stem too?
Still, glad its all sorted out.