Lexan for Homeade Door

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mllud

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Is this the material that they use for the demolition doors.Im tired of looking for a door. Making my own.
 

perry

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Wrong link !! could a moderator remove the link above. Ill try again . http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130189687179&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=003 .
Lowes and home depot carry it, also check with a auto glass shop, they may beat L and HD.
 
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mllud

mllud

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Lowes and home depot carry it, also check with a auto glass shop, they may beat L and HD.
Perry
Thanks: I spend time in those places but didnt know they carried it.
Is 1/2inch heavy enough that the door wouldnt need a frame.I was hoping to just have a rubber channel around the outside edge. Then build the part of the frame that attatches to the cab out of steel.
I havent had a chance to look at how the different manufacturers make theirs. Most of the farmers out here dont have enclosed cabs.
I dont do demolition work but do move steel around steel. Glass wouldnt last with me. Not that Im careless Mike
 

skidsteer.ca

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Perry
Thanks: I spend time in those places but didnt know they carried it.
Is 1/2inch heavy enough that the door wouldnt need a frame.I was hoping to just have a rubber channel around the outside edge. Then build the part of the frame that attatches to the cab out of steel.
I havent had a chance to look at how the different manufacturers make theirs. Most of the farmers out here dont have enclosed cabs.
I dont do demolition work but do move steel around steel. Glass wouldnt last with me. Not that Im careless Mike
Mike
Most of the forestry machines here use a product called Margard. Pehaps its is slightly more scratch resistant than lexan. Plexiglass is the cheapes but won't take sun well and marks easy.
Any of these materials require a lot of water and careful scrubing to clean.
I'll check on what came in the doors I bought from NH, I refit one for a 150 to my 160. Its about 5/8" and is plenty tough. Still it has a steel frame that swings out from the cab.
Ken
 
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mllud

mllud

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Mike
Most of the forestry machines here use a product called Margard. Pehaps its is slightly more scratch resistant than lexan. Plexiglass is the cheapes but won't take sun well and marks easy.
Any of these materials require a lot of water and careful scrubing to clean.
I'll check on what came in the doors I bought from NH, I refit one for a 150 to my 160. Its about 5/8" and is plenty tough. Still it has a steel frame that swings out from the cab.
Ken
Ken
I have seen what plexiglass does iin the sun. I knew the Lexan was a lot stronger but didnt think to check on u.v. exposure.
I can build a metal frame for the door itself if nesessary. I understand why you need to flush with water when cleaning. I explained that to my son when he wrote his name in the dust on my truck.
The best price I got on a door kit from New Holland was about $1100.00. Ive been looking for used or, new old stock. No luck.
Any direction would be appreciated.
Mike
 
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mllud

mllud

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Ken
I have seen what plexiglass does iin the sun. I knew the Lexan was a lot stronger but didnt think to check on u.v. exposure.
I can build a metal frame for the door itself if nesessary. I understand why you need to flush with water when cleaning. I explained that to my son when he wrote his name in the dust on my truck.
The best price I got on a door kit from New Holland was about $1100.00. Ive been looking for used or, new old stock. No luck.
Any direction would be appreciated.
Mike
This door is up for auction on Ebay.Its for a cat but as long as its not too tall or too wide I can make it work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us
Anyone else that has a door they dont need I dont care what machine it fits. I guess it would need to be narrow at the bottom to clear the boom when open.
Im still looking for suggetions . the door on ebay may go too high.
Thanks Mike
 

Idoitall

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This door is up for auction on Ebay.Its for a cat but as long as its not too tall or too wide I can make it work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180249347027&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us
Anyone else that has a door they dont need I dont care what machine it fits. I guess it would need to be narrow at the bottom to clear the boom when open.
Im still looking for suggetions . the door on ebay may go too high.
Thanks Mike
I was watching a recent episode of Ax Men, where they log in the Northwest, Oregon I think.
A guy was operating a machine called a "feller-buncher" that cuts, lifts, and drops those huge Spruce trees. A 4" diameter limb fell from about 80 ft. and penetrated the 1" thick Lexan top window of the cab, narrowly missing the operator. The replacement window took several days to get and cost $900 or so.
 

Bandit1047

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I was watching a recent episode of Ax Men, where they log in the Northwest, Oregon I think.
A guy was operating a machine called a "feller-buncher" that cuts, lifts, and drops those huge Spruce trees. A 4" diameter limb fell from about 80 ft. and penetrated the 1" thick Lexan top window of the cab, narrowly missing the operator. The replacement window took several days to get and cost $900 or so.
What you need is Policarbinate. Different manufacturers have different names for it. Plexiglass is NOT what you want. You can get Policarbinate sheet in any thickness from www.usplastics.com in Lima Ohio. Cutting it is a little tricky if you get it 1/2 or thicker. Take a plywood blade and turn it around so it runs the blade in reverse. Take 1/4 inch or smaller passes and then keep going deeper. You can also use a router with carbide cutters to work this material. It will melt when you cut it so keep the plastic cleaned out of your saw. Joe
 

Idoitall

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What you need is Policarbinate. Different manufacturers have different names for it. Plexiglass is NOT what you want. You can get Policarbinate sheet in any thickness from www.usplastics.com in Lima Ohio. Cutting it is a little tricky if you get it 1/2 or thicker. Take a plywood blade and turn it around so it runs the blade in reverse. Take 1/4 inch or smaller passes and then keep going deeper. You can also use a router with carbide cutters to work this material. It will melt when you cut it so keep the plastic cleaned out of your saw. Joe
That's exactly right, YOU DO NOT WANT PLEXIGLASS (A.K.A. Acrylic). Lexan (A.K.A. Polycarbonate) is what you want and the preferred method for cutting is waterjet. This works really well, and with the computerized cutting machines they can make any cut, shape, hole, slot, etc. that you'll need.
 
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mllud

mllud

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That's exactly right, YOU DO NOT WANT PLEXIGLASS (A.K.A. Acrylic). Lexan (A.K.A. Polycarbonate) is what you want and the preferred method for cutting is waterjet. This works really well, and with the computerized cutting machines they can make any cut, shape, hole, slot, etc. that you'll need.
Thanks for the information. I was wondering what was the best way too cut it was. Ill probably have to go with the reversed plywood blade.The waterjet would be more accurate but Im so far out in the sticks the fuel would kill me. Thank Mike
 

skidsteer.ca

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Thanks for the information. I was wondering what was the best way too cut it was. Ill probably have to go with the reversed plywood blade.The waterjet would be more accurate but Im so far out in the sticks the fuel would kill me. Thank Mike
Carpenters hand saw works too.
Ken
 

Idoitall

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Carpenters hand saw works too.
Ken
I frequently work with 1/8" polycarbonate on some equipment guarding and we get it cut with a waterjet. It cuts really well and is smooth, so it needs no filing to smooth the edges. Occassionaly, I have to trim a piece and I use a small 10" table saw with a 40 tooth carbide blade. If I cut all the way through, it will often chip, so I cut about half, then turn it over and make the second cut. This works OK, but is not as smooth as the waterjet.

Drilling with a regular twist bit works, but is not smooth, and it will grab and go through before you can stop it, often leaving sharp shavings attached and must be filed clean. The back edge can chip if you just push it through.
 
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mllud

mllud

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Carpenters hand saw works too.
Ken
That wouldnt get hot and melt. Especially at the speed I run. Thanks
That cat. door I was looking at on e-bay is up to about $450+ and climbing.
Ken I did a search on the forum of doors and found your door project. New holland doors on a bobcat. Nice Job
I havent bought any materials yet, I keep thinking a door is going to jump out in front of me. Mike
 
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mllud

mllud

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That wouldnt get hot and melt. Especially at the speed I run. Thanks
That cat. door I was looking at on e-bay is up to about $450+ and climbing.
Ken I did a search on the forum of doors and found your door project. New holland doors on a bobcat. Nice Job
I havent bought any materials yet, I keep thinking a door is going to jump out in front of me. Mike
Idiotall I was going to use 1/2 inch on the door and 1/4 or 1/8 on the side windows. I have a freind with a machine shop that could cut it for me. I dont like to bother him unless I really need something serious. I dont want to wear out the favors. I have a router. Thanks for the Input. Mike
 

Bandit1047

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Idiotall I was going to use 1/2 inch on the door and 1/4 or 1/8 on the side windows. I have a freind with a machine shop that could cut it for me. I dont like to bother him unless I really need something serious. I dont want to wear out the favors. I have a router. Thanks for the Input. Mike
Don't be afraid to tackle this project, Mike. A hand circular saw with a plywood blade (Plain Steel, NOT carbide) turned backward, works great. You can get some weatther seal through J.C. Whitney and glue it on or if you can find the kind that has the aluminum push on edge it is easier. I needed to trim the edge on the door I made with a router to take it from 3/8 to 1/4 so the push on weather seal would fit. Any hardware store has handles and you can make some kind of locking device. I glued industrial magnets to my door just to hold it. I then made a latch that I use on the inside. If you give me your e-mail, I will send you pix of my door. My e-mail is: [email protected]
 
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mllud

mllud

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Don't be afraid to tackle this project, Mike. A hand circular saw with a plywood blade (Plain Steel, NOT carbide) turned backward, works great. You can get some weatther seal through J.C. Whitney and glue it on or if you can find the kind that has the aluminum push on edge it is easier. I needed to trim the edge on the door I made with a router to take it from 3/8 to 1/4 so the push on weather seal would fit. Any hardware store has handles and you can make some kind of locking device. I glued industrial magnets to my door just to hold it. I then made a latch that I use on the inside. If you give me your e-mail, I will send you pix of my door. My e-mail is: [email protected]
Bandit1047
Im well stocked with tools to do the cutting and shaping. Im taking one last look around while getting armed with all the experience of people that have done the job . I actially think making my own door,verses buying one and modifying it to fit would be better.
I do like the bubble shape door. Ill be jumping in soon. My hand has been in the buy button . I just havnt puhed it. Mike
 
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mllud

mllud

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Bandit1047
Im well stocked with tools to do the cutting and shaping. Im taking one last look around while getting armed with all the experience of people that have done the job . I actially think making my own door,verses buying one and modifying it to fit would be better.
I do like the bubble shape door. Ill be jumping in soon. My hand has been in the buy button . I just havnt puhed it. Mike
I bought a piece of 1/2 inch lexan.48x32 inches.This is the auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130189687179&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=003
Bandit1047 You describe some aluminum channel to put aroud the edges Where might I find that. It has to be 1/2 inch.I dont think the channel J.C.Whitney sells goes that wide.I havnt searched the web for a flexable channel yet.If anyone knows a place to order some let me know. Mike
 

Idoitall

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I bought a piece of 1/2 inch lexan.48x32 inches.This is the auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130189687179&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=003
Bandit1047 You describe some aluminum channel to put aroud the edges Where might I find that. It has to be 1/2 inch.I dont think the channel J.C.Whitney sells goes that wide.I havnt searched the web for a flexable channel yet.If anyone knows a place to order some let me know. Mike
I found this source for you. They seem to have quite a few different shapes, materials, etc. I've seen several of these used in the boating industry as edge trim. You might also have a look at motor home parts & repairs too. They also use this stuff.
http://www.outwater.com/promo/uchannel/?gclid=CJum6pDG5ZMCFRUdsgodwkTBaA
Are you looking for just a trim cover or something that would be used in fastening or hingeing?
 
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