Land clearing?

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xcmark

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Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
15
I have a JCB 1110t CTL , its 10,300 lbs that runs on 18" wide tracks with 92 hp. I will be useing this machine to clear a 3 AC lot of land that doesnt have many large trees. Mostly what is on the lot is 3" ~ 14" trees (a few evergreens mostly maple, birch and some elm trees) . The machine is strong enough that I can get under the root ball with a 78" tooth bucket and up root the tree and stump with two passes but it leaves huge holes to repair later. What do the pros suggest ? the second half of my question I am looking at buying a grapple to clean up te brush, stumps and general clean up. WHat is your opinion on quick attach products? I am looking at the Eagle Talen and quick claw , are they worth the money they want for them? Given the size of my machine will I bend this grapple , I dont plan on abuseing it but there is some rocks that I need to move also. After looking at what is forsale on ebay and craigs list new and used I have come to the concluseion that there is huge price and quality differance in the products for sale.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
You would likely find it easier to uproot the trees by taking a full bucket of dirt then pushing on the trunk up near full lift. You can remove the stump from the trunk later if you want.
As for the crators the only other option is grinding the stumps down. leaves less debris and no crator. Which requires another attachment and hi flow option to operate it.
If your not trying to save the turf around the trees I think the uprooting is the way to go
I have both a Erskine stump grinder and quick claw grapple and have been a dealer of theirs for a few years. They make good equipment and i have not had any complaints and minimal warranty claims. As you know nothing is indestructable regardless of price, but on the other hand the more you pay the better you get.
I have managed to bend a couple tines on my claw (1/2" T1, handling boulders) but a couple whacks with a 6lb hammer brought things back into alignment. This by no means happens often, but is possible. I suspect the 3/4" Eagle Talon would be much tougher in this respect. Also with the replaceable teeth on the lower tines would be a better choice if you plan on alot of sub surface work.
Sometimes I wish my claw had a longer lower tine to grab more tree stems at once, which the Talon has. There is however a trade off with lost breakout force. however both models have quite and advance over a bucket by keeping the teeth close to the machine. Being able to back drag with the top jaw is also quite an advantage over some grapples when you just want to rake the surface gently or need to pull material from a corner.
Ken
 
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xcmark

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
15
You would likely find it easier to uproot the trees by taking a full bucket of dirt then pushing on the trunk up near full lift. You can remove the stump from the trunk later if you want.
As for the crators the only other option is grinding the stumps down. leaves less debris and no crator. Which requires another attachment and hi flow option to operate it.
If your not trying to save the turf around the trees I think the uprooting is the way to go
I have both a Erskine stump grinder and quick claw grapple and have been a dealer of theirs for a few years. They make good equipment and i have not had any complaints and minimal warranty claims. As you know nothing is indestructable regardless of price, but on the other hand the more you pay the better you get.
I have managed to bend a couple tines on my claw (1/2" T1, handling boulders) but a couple whacks with a 6lb hammer brought things back into alignment. This by no means happens often, but is possible. I suspect the 3/4" Eagle Talon would be much tougher in this respect. Also with the replaceable teeth on the lower tines would be a better choice if you plan on alot of sub surface work.
Sometimes I wish my claw had a longer lower tine to grab more tree stems at once, which the Talon has. There is however a trade off with lost breakout force. however both models have quite and advance over a bucket by keeping the teeth close to the machine. Being able to back drag with the top jaw is also quite an advantage over some grapples when you just want to rake the surface gently or need to pull material from a corner.
Ken
Ken , thank you for taking the time to post a reply! I have worked in construction for 25+years I agree , nothing is unbreakable. Any owners have a eagle tallen grapple ? Can you back drag with the lower tines be as long as they are I question if you roll the bucket enough to get the top of the grapple on the ground first or if the lower claw hits ?
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Ken , thank you for taking the time to post a reply! I have worked in construction for 25+years I agree , nothing is unbreakable. Any owners have a eagle tallen grapple ? Can you back drag with the lower tines be as long as they are I question if you roll the bucket enough to get the top of the grapple on the ground first or if the lower claw hits ?
You can even lift the boom up 18 to 24" and still back drag with the top jaw. Keeping the lower jaw out of the way is not a issue.
For a 72" the Talon has another 130 lbs of steel in it. Including 3/4" lower tines with gussets in between the. The replaceable digging teeth and some additional framework on the top jaw.
They bill this as the grapple for machines larger then 2400 lb roc or extreme duty applications.
Ken
 

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