L565 hydrolic filter ? hydrolic questions, sugested RPM

[heatpumpproducts]

i would like to cheack this filter , where do i find it , when taking it off , what is the proper procedure , do i fill the new one with oil , is their a balancing valve between the two drive hydrostats . like in the boom , or would this conflict with the forward and reverse needed for turning . i found today after pushing (bucketing w/23 cuft) that the hydrolic fluid read cold , the engine warmed up but it was only -2 cel here and it was working good i thought for around 3.5 hrs . i do see the bucket drop when left alone on stright runs .is thier something i'm missing here.i have forks and this would concern me if i had a large fagil item on them .also a little creeping when at nutral ,is thier a remiddy for that as well.the fluid my dealer sugested was HD10/30 can i add something to it like lucus additive . where are the drain plugs located for the sump.,hydro fluid, and fuel tanks. i notist a little moan and groan turning on pavment as i worked it at 2100 rpm is that a good level , i turn it down to a round 1000 to start and shut off , let it build up for 1 min or so then 2100 sounds to my ear smouth . but what is the recomended rpms , and what is the MAX this is only snow(6 foot banks from 8 storms past) what do i use when grading dirt or plucking stumps .

 

[Tazza]

You should be able to replace the filter without filling it with oil. If you want to limit how much air gets in the system you can fill it if you please, but its not critical.
The hydrostats and hydraulics are linked. Your hydraulic pump provides charge pressure to your hydrostatic pumps. If you have a bad hydraulic pump your drive system will be affected but if you have a hydrostatic pump problem your hydraulics will nor be affected.
Your bucket falling down could be adjustment (doubtful though), worn piston seals in your lift rams or a problem with the seals in your load checks in your control block.
10W30 sounds rite for oil, i would stay away from additives. I have heard horror stories of additives that KILLED the pumps after they claimed they were ideal for that machine.
Groaning is totally normal, it gets worse if you let the revs go down too far. About 3/4 throttle is about rite but every job is different. If you don't need mush power like driving down hills of flats i go about 1/2 but if i need power i go full, mostly 3/4 is good.
Centre, this can be adjusted, i just don't know how on your machine but you can fix that! it will just be a small amount of wear causing it.

 

[mllud]

You should be able to replace the filter without filling it with oil. If you want to limit how much air gets in the system you can fill it if you please, but its not critical.
The hydrostats and hydraulics are linked. Your hydraulic pump provides charge pressure to your hydrostatic pumps. If you have a bad hydraulic pump your drive system will be affected but if you have a hydrostatic pump problem your hydraulics will nor be affected.
Your bucket falling down could be adjustment (doubtful though), worn piston seals in your lift rams or a problem with the seals in your load checks in your control block.
10W30 sounds rite for oil, i would stay away from additives. I have heard horror stories of additives that KILLED the pumps after they claimed they were ideal for that machine.
Groaning is totally normal, it gets worse if you let the revs go down too far. About 3/4 throttle is about rite but every job is different. If you don't need mush power like driving down hills of flats i go about 1/2 but if i need power i go full, mostly 3/4 is good.
Centre, this can be adjusted, i just don't know how on your machine but you can fix that! it will just be a small amount of wear causing it.

I believe 2300 r.p.m. s is max recomended. My book says to run full throttle all the time. I use my discression on that. Open your rear door. your hyd. filter should be to the right of the radiator. right on the oil cooler.Remove with filter wrench and replace. It will self prime.
If you raise your seat And look at your pumps .{if you have two}. there is a hard line crossing from one to the other. I think thi balances pressure between the two. If you have a weak pump the side its on will be weak. You can equalize forward motion by adjusting the two rectangular frames at the base of your drive sticks. they have slotted holes.this is to adjust straight travel speed. But if you have a weak pump on one side it may not be within the range of adjustment.Adjuting the linkages for stopping creeping isnt difficult.Get all four wheel off the ground. Adjust the linkages so when your stick are at rest the Levers on the hydrotatic pumps are centered.Start and adjut the linkages until the tires dont turn. be sure you keep the sticks centered in the opening. If you dont you may not have equal forward and reverse speeds.I have a lx865 some thing may be different but principle should be te same. Mike

 

[heatpumpproducts]

I believe 2300 r.p.m. s is max recomended. My book says to run full throttle all the time. I use my discression on that. Open your rear door. your hyd. filter should be to the right of the radiator. right on the oil cooler.Remove with filter wrench and replace. It will self prime.
If you raise your seat And look at your pumps .{if you have two}. there is a hard line crossing from one to the other. I think thi balances pressure between the two. If you have a weak pump the side its on will be weak. You can equalize forward motion by adjusting the two rectangular frames at the base of your drive sticks. they have slotted holes.this is to adjust straight travel speed. But if you have a weak pump on one side it may not be within the range of adjustment.Adjuting the linkages for stopping creeping isnt difficult.Get all four wheel off the ground. Adjust the linkages so when your stick are at rest the Levers on the hydrotatic pumps are centered.Start and adjut the linkages until the tires dont turn. be sure you keep the sticks centered in the opening. If you dont you may not have equal forward and reverse speeds.I have a lx865 some thing may be different but principle should be te same. Mike

tire inflation mite of had something to do with the in balance , i had one on the rear right come off the rim ,and put a tub in it , and the same for the front left . this has helped a bit , cleaned all the pumps and hoses off and exposed the mail linkages like you sugested , i don't see any thing leaking though , its a 94 and pretty dirty , man is it going to get a wash down in the spring . the wires for the sensors are now as clean as i can get them , at least the ones at the hydro filter , fuel , air , and any others i found including the grounds on the engine in back of the seat , but i was only able to just touch the temperature hydrolic sensor leads these are the main problem they are satturated with muck and god only knows what else . in order to change the serso (if its bad ) and not the wires . does the oropes need to be split . if so how .please start a new post . with your expanation on that i think it would be better for some one else looking to find out how to do that to. any way i really think this has made it possible to me to find out what i needed to know . and know i could not of done it with out all your guys help. ----thank you all alot----.kier mizuik Miramichi New Brunswick.

 

[heatpumpproducts]

I believe 2300 r.p.m. s is max recomended. My book says to run full throttle all the time. I use my discression on that. Open your rear door. your hyd. filter should be to the right of the radiator. right on the oil cooler.Remove with filter wrench and replace. It will self prime.
If you raise your seat And look at your pumps .{if you have two}. there is a hard line crossing from one to the other. I think thi balances pressure between the two. If you have a weak pump the side its on will be weak. You can equalize forward motion by adjusting the two rectangular frames at the base of your drive sticks. they have slotted holes.this is to adjust straight travel speed. But if you have a weak pump on one side it may not be within the range of adjustment.Adjuting the linkages for stopping creeping isnt difficult.Get all four wheel off the ground. Adjust the linkages so when your stick are at rest the Levers on the hydrotatic pumps are centered.Start and adjut the linkages until the tires dont turn. be sure you keep the sticks centered in the opening. If you dont you may not have equal forward and reverse speeds.I have a lx865 some thing may be different but principle should be te same. Mike

i finally read the manual for my L565 the RPM i was using was way to low recomended 2900 RPM in the manual for the N844T Diesel motor firing order 1-3-4-2 engine manufacturer ISM/NEW HOLLAND ? HOW IS THAT . SINCE IT IS HYDROSTATIC DRIVE @2900 RPM IT PRODUCES 1000 PSI AND 14.5 GAL/MIN OR 54.9LITERS PER MIN THE OIL IS 10W30 SAE AND FOR MAINTENCE TESTING 3070-3150RPM MAXIMUM THROTTLE THE PERSURE SHOULD BE AT 2600-2800 PSI @ the boom if not it says to replace the presure releif valve and the operating temperature of the hydrolic fluid should read 120 f or (49 cel).thats what was in the book , i tryied 2800 rpm and yes i felt an improvement in power and speed , and although it was using less fuel and less time at harder tasks .

 

[skidsteer.ca]

i finally read the manual for my L565 the RPM i was using was way to low recomended 2900 RPM in the manual for the N844T Diesel motor firing order 1-3-4-2 engine manufacturer ISM/NEW HOLLAND ? HOW IS THAT . SINCE IT IS HYDROSTATIC DRIVE @2900 RPM IT PRODUCES 1000 PSI AND 14.5 GAL/MIN OR 54.9LITERS PER MIN THE OIL IS 10W30 SAE AND FOR MAINTENCE TESTING 3070-3150RPM MAXIMUM THROTTLE THE PERSURE SHOULD BE AT 2600-2800 PSI @ the boom if not it says to replace the presure releif valve and the operating temperature of the hydrolic fluid should read 120 f or (49 cel).thats what was in the book , i tryied 2800 rpm and yes i felt an improvement in power and speed , and although it was using less fuel and less time at harder tasks .

finally read the manual for my L565 the RPM i was using was way to low recomended 2900 RPM in the manual for the N844T Diesel motor firing order 1-3-4-2 engine manufacturer ISM/NEW HOLLAND ?
Engine is made by a Japanese company for New Holland, Most Jap engines run @ 3000 rpm as opposed to 2300 for our domestic diesels
HOW IS THAT . SINCE IT IS HYDROSTATIC DRIVE @2900 RPM IT PRODUCES 1000 PSI AND 14.5 GAL/MIN OR 54.9LITERS PER MIN
I believe that is just the flow spec is taken at 1000 psi, Relief psi is @ 2500 to 2600 as mentioned later

THE OIL IS 10W30 SAE AND FOR MAINTENCE TESTING 3070-3150RPM MAXIMUM THROTTLE THE PERSURE SHOULD BE AT 2600-2800 PSI @ the boom if not it says to replace the presure releif valve.
and the operating temperature of the hydrolic fluid should read 120 f or (49 cel).thats what was in the book
Again this is the oil temp NH used when measuring thier pressure spec. As hotter oil would tend to drop the pressure a bit.
Hydraulic oil often reads cold on my LS 160 (newer version of your loader, pretty much the same thing) And operated anywhere in the range from COLD to 130f, Unsure of the hot spec but generally oil temps up to @ 250f don't hurt anything, but cooler, say 120f is much easier on O rings, cylinder packing etc
, i tryied 2800 rpm and yes i felt an improvement in power and speed , and although it was using less fuel and less time at harder tasks .
I don't find my loader works vary well below 2500-2600 rpm
Hope that helps some, I think if you go back and read the manual again you will find this to be true, unless I mis read it,
Ken