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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
Installed Axle seals 743
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<blockquote data-quote="Tazza" data-source="post: 8070" data-attributes="member: 82"><p>I did toy with using an old race cut in half too but it just didn't want to work too well for me so i built the rite tool if tape doesn't work get a large worm drive hose clamp to hold the pieces together. The spacing given by the race was pretty well spot on too. The only thing i did different was use a large copper hammer to seat the seal by hitting the axle hub as i took up the slack from the inside. I did use a longer bolt too but beware when doing this when the other side has been done, when the seal is seated there may not be enough room to get the old bolt out and the correct one in! been there done that!!!!</p><p>As for pulling the axle out, i used a 2 1/2 tonne bottle jack on its side with the pump section facing down so it got oil and pushed them out that way. A porta power would be good if you have access to one, but if not a bottle jack will also work.</p><p>Removing the old bearings can also be done by welding to the taper and using an air chisel to push it forwards. Grinding will also work but this was pretty fast too. The extra heat from the welding would have helped expand the race to let it come free. The wear ring can be removed with a coal chisel, these are very thin and move easily. I didn't have access to a press so i used a length of water pipe (clean of course) and used a hammer to seat the wear ring and bearing.</p><p>One thing you should do when you get the axles back in is to check for end float. I had to take .005" off one washer to take out the play. The other 3 were spot on.</p><p>I agree to take the time to change hoses and any other parts when you are in there, especially where the arm pivots on the chain case. Its a small part that will save you a lot of trouble later.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tazza, post: 8070, member: 82"] I did toy with using an old race cut in half too but it just didn't want to work too well for me so i built the rite tool if tape doesn't work get a large worm drive hose clamp to hold the pieces together. The spacing given by the race was pretty well spot on too. The only thing i did different was use a large copper hammer to seat the seal by hitting the axle hub as i took up the slack from the inside. I did use a longer bolt too but beware when doing this when the other side has been done, when the seal is seated there may not be enough room to get the old bolt out and the correct one in! been there done that!!!! As for pulling the axle out, i used a 2 1/2 tonne bottle jack on its side with the pump section facing down so it got oil and pushed them out that way. A porta power would be good if you have access to one, but if not a bottle jack will also work. Removing the old bearings can also be done by welding to the taper and using an air chisel to push it forwards. Grinding will also work but this was pretty fast too. The extra heat from the welding would have helped expand the race to let it come free. The wear ring can be removed with a coal chisel, these are very thin and move easily. I didn't have access to a press so i used a length of water pipe (clean of course) and used a hammer to seat the wear ring and bearing. One thing you should do when you get the axles back in is to check for end float. I had to take .005” off one washer to take out the play. The other 3 were spot on. I agree to take the time to change hoses and any other parts when you are in there, especially where the arm pivots on the chain case. Its a small part that will save you a lot of trouble later. [/QUOTE]
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Installed Axle seals 743
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