How to access the turbo on an 863

[bobbie-g]

I need to (probably) remove the turbo on my 863G. Two bolts supporting the muffler came loose, putting weight/vibration on the pipe connecting to the turbo. The three bolts (or studs) holding the exhaust pipe to the turbo are either gone or sheared off. Found the gasket down behind the engine. So I probably need to remove the turbo to get at those three bolt holes. I assume I need to remove the alternator, muffler, and air cleaner so I can reach behind the engine. Any other tips for reaching/removing/replacing the turbo? Pix in my manual are fuzzy; instructions are cryptic; parts manual shows three studs/nuts holding the pipe to the turbo. I suppose the threads are metric? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ---Bobbie G.

 

[Bobcatdan]

Curse.

 

[OldMachinist]

Curse.

 

[OldMachinist]

Looks like the pictures in the manual were taken with cab tilted back to get access to the back side of the engine..

 

[bobbie-g]

Looks like the pictures in the manual were taken with cab tilted back to get access to the back side of the engine..

OldMachinist, many thx for the nice pix. Way better than what are in my manual. Yup, pix either taken with engine out, or from the front with the cab up. --- I managed to get the turbo out without too much trouble. Fortunately, the exhaust bolts/nuts came loose/out OK. I use BG Inforce penetrating oil, some folks use Aerokroil. I believe either works really well. I have the turbo in a vise now with oil sitting on the sheared studs. I'll get a machinist to drill out the broken studs for a better chance of success. For removal of the turbo, I put the arms and cab up, removed the alternator/mounting bracket, and removed the muffler/mounting bracket. Didn't help to remove the air cleaner. Most everything was then accessible by reaching around either end of the engine. Awkward but it worked. Bobcat wants $2400 for a new turbo; no parts available, only the complete assembly. Memoparts in Texas 817-488-4444 also has the complete assembly only, for $406. If the broken studs don't come out, we'll do the new one. --- Advice if any of you folks out there ever have the muffler off: tighten the 9/16" bolt that holds the yoke/lever on the right hand drive pump shaft. It's only accessible from the rear of the machine, underneath the foot-long plate that covers the steering yokes/levers. Left hand one can be accessed from the front, so it's not as critical. If either yoke loosens on the shaft, the machine will start to jump around and it'll only get worse. --- So here's my question, with the old turbo laying on the bench smirking at me: reinstall the old one, or just put in a new one? The machine has 1150 hrs on it, and I intend to keep it for another 15 years, putting about 200 hrs a year on it. Then I'll drive it over a cliff. The turbo bearings feel perfect, no end plan and no looseness, nice feel when the shaft spins. I do find an oil film inside the intake air housing. Not goopy or drippy or runny, but a bit more than a trace. Engine does not use oil, exhaust is clear when running, never blows blue smoke. What's the expert opinion out there about reusing the old one, or getting a new one? Turns out for me its about an 8 hr job to change it out if it fails later, which doesn't seem too bad. --- Bobbie G.

 

[OldMachinist]

OldMachinist, many thx for the nice pix. Way better than what are in my manual. Yup, pix either taken with engine out, or from the front with the cab up. --- I managed to get the turbo out without too much trouble. Fortunately, the exhaust bolts/nuts came loose/out OK. I use BG Inforce penetrating oil, some folks use Aerokroil. I believe either works really well. I have the turbo in a vise now with oil sitting on the sheared studs. I'll get a machinist to drill out the broken studs for a better chance of success. For removal of the turbo, I put the arms and cab up, removed the alternator/mounting bracket, and removed the muffler/mounting bracket. Didn't help to remove the air cleaner. Most everything was then accessible by reaching around either end of the engine. Awkward but it worked. Bobcat wants $2400 for a new turbo; no parts available, only the complete assembly. Memoparts in Texas 817-488-4444 also has the complete assembly only, for $406. If the broken studs don't come out, we'll do the new one. --- Advice if any of you folks out there ever have the muffler off: tighten the 9/16" bolt that holds the yoke/lever on the right hand drive pump shaft. It's only accessible from the rear of the machine, underneath the foot-long plate that covers the steering yokes/levers. Left hand one can be accessed from the front, so it's not as critical. If either yoke loosens on the shaft, the machine will start to jump around and it'll only get worse. --- So here's my question, with the old turbo laying on the bench smirking at me: reinstall the old one, or just put in a new one? The machine has 1150 hrs on it, and I intend to keep it for another 15 years, putting about 200 hrs a year on it. Then I'll drive it over a cliff. The turbo bearings feel perfect, no end plan and no looseness, nice feel when the shaft spins. I do find an oil film inside the intake air housing. Not goopy or drippy or runny, but a bit more than a trace. Engine does not use oil, exhaust is clear when running, never blows blue smoke. What's the expert opinion out there about reusing the old one, or getting a new one? Turns out for me its about an 8 hr job to change it out if it fails later, which doesn't seem too bad. --- Bobbie G.

If I had the $406 now I'd put on a new one. Then get the studs repaired on the old one and pack it away for a emergency spare.