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Roozter

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Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
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Hello, My name is Scott, and I just joined the forum this week. We moved into our new house in Sept of 2005 with 1 acre of land. Not much for any of you farmers and ranchers, but it is a lot for a single family residence in the burbs of Salt Lake Valley. I rented a skid steer 3 times last year at a cost of $200 / day with only 8 hours allowed on the machine each day. So, this spring my wife and I decided to purchase a used skid steer to finish the yard and maybe keep around for my kids ATV track out back. Yesterday, I became the proud owner of a 1999 Bobcat 751 C. I am excited, and nervous, since I have never owned any machinery before, only automobiles, boats, and ATVs. I do most of my own maintenance on the cars, and had a Diesel F250 for a couple of years, but all I had to do was change oil and fuel filters on it. I would like to know where I can find info on maintenance, service procedures and schedules for this Bobcat 751 C. If I have to buy the service manual then I will go ahead and do it, just let me know. I love the forum concept and found tons of info about my F250 from the FordTruckEnthusiasts forum. -Scott aka Roozter
 

farmboy55

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Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
324
Welcome aboard Scott, I don't know anything about the 751 C. I have a 853 C. Just keep the oil & filters changed. I would think no more hours your putting on it, once a year should take care of it. Keep it greased and be safe. welcome dennis
 

bobbie-g

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Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Messages
576
Welcome aboard Scott, I don't know anything about the 751 C. I have a 853 C. Just keep the oil & filters changed. I would think no more hours your putting on it, once a year should take care of it. Keep it greased and be safe. welcome dennis
Scott, there are just a couple of us with the 751C here on the forum (that I know of). In general I try to change the oil/filter at something like 50 hrs (manual says 100 hrs). Fuel filter and hydrostatic fluid filters at 250 hrs as the manual says. Air filter (outer) at maybe 250 hrs, although the manual says only change it when the indicator says. Personally, I don't really trust the indicator, as I intentionally blocked a new filter with paper to see how blocked it had to be to make the indicator say "clogged". As I recall, I had to wrap almost 90 percent of the outer filter with newspaper before the indicator clicked on. And that was after I replaced the air tube that a rodent had chewed through. Manual says to only change the inner air filter every third time the outer is changed. Shoot me an email and I'll try to help any way I can with specifics. --- Bob, [email protected]
 

Tazza

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Scott, there are just a couple of us with the 751C here on the forum (that I know of). In general I try to change the oil/filter at something like 50 hrs (manual says 100 hrs). Fuel filter and hydrostatic fluid filters at 250 hrs as the manual says. Air filter (outer) at maybe 250 hrs, although the manual says only change it when the indicator says. Personally, I don't really trust the indicator, as I intentionally blocked a new filter with paper to see how blocked it had to be to make the indicator say "clogged". As I recall, I had to wrap almost 90 percent of the outer filter with newspaper before the indicator clicked on. And that was after I replaced the air tube that a rodent had chewed through. Manual says to only change the inner air filter every third time the outer is changed. Shoot me an email and I'll try to help any way I can with specifics. --- Bob, [email protected]
As everyone else has said, change engine oil and filter regularly. Watch your coolant level!! if it uses water and over heats you are in a world of trouble.
Just basic maintenance is really needed, keep it greased, change oil as specified and you will be fine.
 

Roozter

Active member
Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
31
As everyone else has said, change engine oil and filter regularly. Watch your coolant level!! if it uses water and over heats you are in a world of trouble.
Just basic maintenance is really needed, keep it greased, change oil as specified and you will be fine.
Hey thanks everyone! I put 8 hours on it this weekend and greased all the fittings I could find. I'm not sure if I am using the right names for these places but they make sense to me! :) 1 on the top of the bucket ram 1 on the bottom of the bucket ram 1 each side of bucket pivot pins (2 total) 1 each side of lift arm pivot points (2 total, rear top of machine) 1 each end of lift rams each side (3 total) I could not get the grease gun onto the fitting for the right lift arm / engine end . It seems this fitting was taken off and put back on so that the angled end of the fitting is pointing inside toward the engine rather than out of the hole. Anyone have any ideas on fixing this? I have not tried taking it off and re-installing it yet, that was my first thought that it was just started in the wrong position and ended up in the wrong position. Now, it also appears that hydraulic oil may be leaking from this right lift ram around the fitting that is angled with a hex head bolt. My first thought is to just make sure the bolt is tight. Any ideas on torque setting for this bolt? I need to buy the service manual and I know about the guy on Ebay but I also read somewhere that the dealer may be only $60 vs. the Ebay guy at around $85. I am also a little embarrassed to ask but does anyone know of some online instructions for loading a grease gun? I lost the instructions for my gun and I do it so rarely that I have forgotten. It works, but I know it is not loaded properly because I have to remove it from the fitting and mess with it then re-install it on the fitting to get any grease to come out. Thanks everyone!
 

sterlclan

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2004
Messages
528
Hey thanks everyone! I put 8 hours on it this weekend and greased all the fittings I could find. I'm not sure if I am using the right names for these places but they make sense to me! :) 1 on the top of the bucket ram 1 on the bottom of the bucket ram 1 each side of bucket pivot pins (2 total) 1 each side of lift arm pivot points (2 total, rear top of machine) 1 each end of lift rams each side (3 total) I could not get the grease gun onto the fitting for the right lift arm / engine end . It seems this fitting was taken off and put back on so that the angled end of the fitting is pointing inside toward the engine rather than out of the hole. Anyone have any ideas on fixing this? I have not tried taking it off and re-installing it yet, that was my first thought that it was just started in the wrong position and ended up in the wrong position. Now, it also appears that hydraulic oil may be leaking from this right lift ram around the fitting that is angled with a hex head bolt. My first thought is to just make sure the bolt is tight. Any ideas on torque setting for this bolt? I need to buy the service manual and I know about the guy on Ebay but I also read somewhere that the dealer may be only $60 vs. the Ebay guy at around $85. I am also a little embarrassed to ask but does anyone know of some online instructions for loading a grease gun? I lost the instructions for my gun and I do it so rarely that I have forgotten. It works, but I know it is not loaded properly because I have to remove it from the fitting and mess with it then re-install it on the fitting to get any grease to come out. Thanks everyone!
when you pull the handle on the bottom of the gun out pull it to one side there is a slot there to hold the plunger out unscrew the tube from the head remove the old cart. and install the new paper end twords the bottom open the handle and screw it together if you twist the bottom handle some itll hold the plunger and you can"burp" the cart to get the air out then twist again to release the plunger and push the handle in sometimes I leave the tube part a little loose it helps with trapped air welcome to the forum... Jeff
 

Tazza

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when you pull the handle on the bottom of the gun out pull it to one side there is a slot there to hold the plunger out unscrew the tube from the head remove the old cart. and install the new paper end twords the bottom open the handle and screw it together if you twist the bottom handle some itll hold the plunger and you can"burp" the cart to get the air out then twist again to release the plunger and push the handle in sometimes I leave the tube part a little loose it helps with trapped air welcome to the forum... Jeff
LOL at the grease gun bit, i have done it myself......
I had no idea it was spring loaded when i opened it and grease went everywhere. As Jeff said, there should be a slot in the shaft and one in the base of the gun to hold it back, some are very touchy and can pop out quite easily.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
when you pull the handle on the bottom of the gun out pull it to one side there is a slot there to hold the plunger out unscrew the tube from the head remove the old cart. and install the new paper end twords the bottom open the handle and screw it together if you twist the bottom handle some itll hold the plunger and you can"burp" the cart to get the air out then twist again to release the plunger and push the handle in sometimes I leave the tube part a little loose it helps with trapped air welcome to the forum... Jeff
You can tighten that grease fitting a liitle more and get it to point at the hole in the side of the machine. No need to remove. If it seems excessively tight, then just loosen it a part turn.
Don't forget the 2 grease nipples on each side of the quick attach where the pins slide up and down to latch your bucket on. They get buried in the dirt and are easier to find with the bucket off. If you seldom remove your bucket and forget to grease them you will be removing the pins with a BIG hammer someday.
If the hydraulic leak you speak of is on a cylinder where a hose attaches just snug it up reasonable tight.
The grease gun you will figure out, the biggest thing is to try to keep the air out of them. Its not uncommon to have them air lock and have to remove them and pump a few strokes until they prime again
You will learn alot here.
Regards
Ken
 

Roozter

Active member
Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
31
You can tighten that grease fitting a liitle more and get it to point at the hole in the side of the machine. No need to remove. If it seems excessively tight, then just loosen it a part turn.
Don't forget the 2 grease nipples on each side of the quick attach where the pins slide up and down to latch your bucket on. They get buried in the dirt and are easier to find with the bucket off. If you seldom remove your bucket and forget to grease them you will be removing the pins with a BIG hammer someday.
If the hydraulic leak you speak of is on a cylinder where a hose attaches just snug it up reasonable tight.
The grease gun you will figure out, the biggest thing is to try to keep the air out of them. Its not uncommon to have them air lock and have to remove them and pump a few strokes until they prime again
You will learn alot here.
Regards
Ken
Hey thanks everyone! (sorry for another long post) ;-)


I realized that I loaded the grease gun backwards. I couldn't figure out how to get the cartridge in so I unscrewed and removed the bottom (plunger end) and spooned the grease in from there. It works, but frequently gets airlock as Ken described. As for the quick attach pins I didn't notice any grease fittings but I did smear grease all over the retracted pins (I did take the bucket off) and moved the pins up and down. I'll uncover the pins and do it properly when it stops raining. We had beautiful weather here in UT last week and a cold front and rain moved in this week.


Yeah the hydraulic leak looks like it may be coming from where the hose attaches to the cylinder. I’ll try tightening it up a bit.

Next question(s)

I have a broken headlight that I want to replace. I am having a terrible time locating headlights online. I found some work lights at Northern Tool, should I just compare wattage on the old light to a replacement and buy the same wattage? I am concerned that maybe someone installed the lights I have (aftermarket) and what if they are the wrong wattage? I am worried about a fire, I have heard (and read on here) about these skid steers catching fire due to wiring problems and/or overloaded circuits.

Then, I don't think my rear lights work at all, and I have a backup alarm, but it does not work either. I ordered the service manual from Bobcat for $65 + $8 S&H (not bad) so maybe I should wait till I get the manual to start diagnosing the wiring/lighting issues. I know it could be very difficult to diagnose over the internet.

Thanks for everyone’s input and help. Hopefully I can provide some back soon!

Oh, one more thing. I figured out how to lock the arm support for doing service, BUT, I am way too nervous to get out of the machine with the lift arm raised even though it is supported. Should I just get over it and "trust" the support? I guess I'll have to eventually. I have read about some terrible accidents with these things and getting under the lift arms.
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Hey thanks everyone! (sorry for another long post) ;-)


I realized that I loaded the grease gun backwards. I couldn't figure out how to get the cartridge in so I unscrewed and removed the bottom (plunger end) and spooned the grease in from there. It works, but frequently gets airlock as Ken described. As for the quick attach pins I didn't notice any grease fittings but I did smear grease all over the retracted pins (I did take the bucket off) and moved the pins up and down. I'll uncover the pins and do it properly when it stops raining. We had beautiful weather here in UT last week and a cold front and rain moved in this week.


Yeah the hydraulic leak looks like it may be coming from where the hose attaches to the cylinder. I’ll try tightening it up a bit.

Next question(s)

I have a broken headlight that I want to replace. I am having a terrible time locating headlights online. I found some work lights at Northern Tool, should I just compare wattage on the old light to a replacement and buy the same wattage? I am concerned that maybe someone installed the lights I have (aftermarket) and what if they are the wrong wattage? I am worried about a fire, I have heard (and read on here) about these skid steers catching fire due to wiring problems and/or overloaded circuits.

Then, I don't think my rear lights work at all, and I have a backup alarm, but it does not work either. I ordered the service manual from Bobcat for $65 + $8 S&H (not bad) so maybe I should wait till I get the manual to start diagnosing the wiring/lighting issues. I know it could be very difficult to diagnose over the internet.

Thanks for everyone’s input and help. Hopefully I can provide some back soon!

Oh, one more thing. I figured out how to lock the arm support for doing service, BUT, I am way too nervous to get out of the machine with the lift arm raised even though it is supported. Should I just get over it and "trust" the support? I guess I'll have to eventually. I have read about some terrible accidents with these things and getting under the lift arms.
If the support is in good condition it can't fail. You also have a hydraulic lock valve the lock the oil flow when you turn the key off or lift the seat bar, and the mechanical locks that lock the pedals when the seat bar is lifted. tripple protection, so thats pretty safe imho.
HOWEVER be sure to check the condition of all these safety features, as some get damaged, worn or bypassed over the years.
If your machine is a C model its more likely 1996 97, The G sries started sometime in 98 and they have Triangle shaped headlites A standard 35 or 55 watt headlite should be fine. If you headlites work getting the rear one to should not be a problem. Try to find out the wattage of the original replacement halogen bulb if your concerned.
Reagards
Ken
 

Roozter

Active member
Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Messages
31
If the support is in good condition it can't fail. You also have a hydraulic lock valve the lock the oil flow when you turn the key off or lift the seat bar, and the mechanical locks that lock the pedals when the seat bar is lifted. tripple protection, so thats pretty safe imho.
HOWEVER be sure to check the condition of all these safety features, as some get damaged, worn or bypassed over the years.
If your machine is a C model its more likely 1996 97, The G sries started sometime in 98 and they have Triangle shaped headlites A standard 35 or 55 watt headlite should be fine. If you headlites work getting the rear one to should not be a problem. Try to find out the wattage of the original replacement halogen bulb if your concerned.
Reagards
Ken
Yes, I have square headlights not triangular. That verifies it as a C series correct?
I guess it is not a 99 then, oh well, It works and I don't think I want an older G series from the description of the BOSS system vs the BICS system.
Thanks
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Yes, I have square headlights not triangular. That verifies it as a C series correct?
I guess it is not a 99 then, oh well, It works and I don't think I want an older G series from the description of the BOSS system vs the BICS system.
Thanks
Could be a C or a F series I believe. Prior to the C the models did not have a press to operate button or a Bics controler beside the seat and were just know as 751 or 753 etc, just the number, no letter followed the numbers.
And yes you are better off without the Boss shutdown system or equivalent to it that became standard on the G series.
Bics is standard on all models from 94 up, and is a lock system, boom and wheels, to protect the user.
Boss was optional in those years (in addition to the Bics) and became standard on the G series and is a engine/machine protection system.
2 different animals, although many people lumped them together as they are both electronic controls. However the bics is not too bad to keep functional were as the Boss can be a nitemare.
Regards
Ken
 

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