Heater in 2001 T190

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scsindust

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I just traded my 7753 for a 2001 T190. It has heat & A/C, enclosed cab, etc. The heater didn't work weel when I got it, and I think I have narrowed it down to the one problem. The electric valve that shuts off the coolant flow isn't working too good, so I took it off and turned the valve myself. There is a 'T' in the lines going to the heater core, so when the valve is off, the coolant just recirculates. I think the problem is that the coolant just flows through the 'T' instead of going all the way back the core. As they say, the passage of least resistance. So, my question is - the short hose that connects the 'T' together is the same size hose as the rest of them. Shouldn't the hose be smaller or there be some kind of restrictor in it, so when the coolant valve is open, the passage of least resistance is through the heater core instead of the 'T'? Otherwise the coolant barley passes through the core, and there is no heat in the cab? Anybody have any thoughts? Thanks!!
 

TriHonu

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I asked my dealer the same question about my 763F. It also did not seem to put out much heat. They told me there should be a restrictor inserted in the hose near the T fitting. They stated they have seen a number of machines that people had removed the restrictor trying to get more heat.
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I was told the older loaders (pre G series) heaters will not put out near the heat of the G or K series machines. I don't know if the G series uses a restrictor in the hose or not.
Are you sure the heater core is full of coolant? You might try disconnecting both hoses and insuring the core is full. If you can easily get to the heater core in your machine I would make sure it is not plugged and just not letting the air flow across it. I would also measure the temp with the heater running and compare it to the temp at the engine. You could try pinching the hose a little with a set of ViceGrips or a clamp and see if the temp at the heater core increases.
Hopefully someone with a G-Series will chime in here
 

scsindust

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I asked my dealer the same question about my 763F. It also did not seem to put out much heat. They told me there should be a restrictor inserted in the hose near the T fitting. They stated they have seen a number of machines that people had removed the restrictor trying to get more heat. I was told the older loaders (pre G series) heaters will not put out near the heat of the G or K series machines. I don't know if the G series uses a restrictor in the hose or not.
Are you sure the heater core is full of coolant? You might try disconnecting both hoses and insuring the core is full. If you can easily get to the heater core in your machine I would make sure it is not plugged and just not letting the air flow across it. I would also measure the temp with the heater running and compare it to the temp at the engine. You could try pinching the hose a little with a set of ViceGrips or a clamp and see if the temp at the heater core increases.
Hopefully someone with a G-Series will chime in here
I took the hoses off going to the heater core and blew them out, and refilled it, but I don't know how much got in it. I figured the circulating coolant would fill it back up anyway. I;m going to try to pinch that short hose and see what happens. The inlet hose to the heater core is warm, not hot, and the outlet hose is real cold, which leads me to believe that the coolant isn't moving fast if at all through the core.
 

Tazza

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I took the hoses off going to the heater core and blew them out, and refilled it, but I don't know how much got in it. I figured the circulating coolant would fill it back up anyway. I;m going to try to pinch that short hose and see what happens. The inlet hose to the heater core is warm, not hot, and the outlet hose is real cold, which leads me to believe that the coolant isn't moving fast if at all through the core.
The core in my car did that, hot in cold out. The core was blocked inside. If you can get it out, you can try hooking up the garden hose to it to remove as much as possible. You may even be able to do that without pulling the core just attach it at the engine, try different directions too to try and dislodge the gunk (if there is any). Hopefully it doesn't have a 1 way valve.
 

scsindust

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The core in my car did that, hot in cold out. The core was blocked inside. If you can get it out, you can try hooking up the garden hose to it to remove as much as possible. You may even be able to do that without pulling the core just attach it at the engine, try different directions too to try and dislodge the gunk (if there is any). Hopefully it doesn't have a 1 way valve.
I used my air compressor. I'm pretty sure it is not blocked.
 

TriHonu

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I used my air compressor. I'm pretty sure it is not blocked.
Make sure the heater core is full of coolant. Ideally you want to push fluid in the bottom and have it return from the top. We used to attach a spare heater hose and extend it up and put a funnel in the top let gravity slowly flow the coolant into the core giving the air time to displace and move out.
Any air in the core will significantly reduce the amount of heat that it can transfer to the air going to the cab.
Did you find any kind of restrictor in any of the hoses?
 

jerry

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Make sure the heater core is full of coolant. Ideally you want to push fluid in the bottom and have it return from the top. We used to attach a spare heater hose and extend it up and put a funnel in the top let gravity slowly flow the coolant into the core giving the air time to displace and move out.
Any air in the core will significantly reduce the amount of heat that it can transfer to the air going to the cab.
Did you find any kind of restrictor in any of the hoses?
I think Tazza's idea is worth a try. A friend of ours has a Ford Taurus 2000 and they have a heater with a bypass like that and no restriction either way from the t , they had no heat so we disconnected the hoses and filled the core with muriatic acid for a few minutes, flushed it and it works fine now. Go to the auto parts store and they have heater core flush kits and probably the proper flushing fluid included. Muriatic acid is the old fluid used and it may be bad for some of the newer cores.
 

scsindust

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I think Tazza's idea is worth a try. A friend of ours has a Ford Taurus 2000 and they have a heater with a bypass like that and no restriction either way from the t , they had no heat so we disconnected the hoses and filled the core with muriatic acid for a few minutes, flushed it and it works fine now. Go to the auto parts store and they have heater core flush kits and probably the proper flushing fluid included. Muriatic acid is the old fluid used and it may be bad for some of the newer cores.
When I shot air through it, a lot of fluid came out. There was a lot of air pressure coming out, so I have to assume the core is clean. The old machines had those restrictors. do the newer ones have it? I really don't want to have to take the T apart because the hoses are really tight on it. I'm going to try and clamp the bypass hose a little and see if it makes a difference.
 

scsindust

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When I shot air through it, a lot of fluid came out. There was a lot of air pressure coming out, so I have to assume the core is clean. The old machines had those restrictors. do the newer ones have it? I really don't want to have to take the T apart because the hoses are really tight on it. I'm going to try and clamp the bypass hose a little and see if it makes a difference.
I tried clamping off the bypass hose. No great luck. The heater core has to be partially blocked? When I filled the heater core before, fluid would come out of the second tube as I was filling the first tube. Would a partial block do this? Anyway, I'm on my way to Advance Auto to get a flush kit. Lastly, there is pressure for the fluid to circulate around the heater core, right? So if the heatre core isn't 100% full, the moving coolant should fill it up completely, right?
 

Tazza

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I tried clamping off the bypass hose. No great luck. The heater core has to be partially blocked? When I filled the heater core before, fluid would come out of the second tube as I was filling the first tube. Would a partial block do this? Anyway, I'm on my way to Advance Auto to get a flush kit. Lastly, there is pressure for the fluid to circulate around the heater core, right? So if the heatre core isn't 100% full, the moving coolant should fill it up completely, right?
The core will bleed out the air.
With compressed air it will sound like its ok, you really need to run water through but generally if its quite blocked you will only get a trickle out.
 

scsindust

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The core will bleed out the air.
With compressed air it will sound like its ok, you really need to run water through but generally if its quite blocked you will only get a trickle out.
Well, I fixed it. What a joke. I tried to flush the heater core, but it seemed like a bad clog. After an hour or screwing with it, I found that one of the inlet hoses were pinched behind the cab. The cap to the hyrdraulic breather was jammed against the hose when the cab was down. So, I moved the hose over, and the heat works great!!
 

Tazza

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Well, I fixed it. What a joke. I tried to flush the heater core, but it seemed like a bad clog. After an hour or screwing with it, I found that one of the inlet hoses were pinched behind the cab. The cap to the hyrdraulic breather was jammed against the hose when the cab was down. So, I moved the hose over, and the heat works great!!
Glad it was a simple fix. Enjoy your heat :)
 
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