Half-abandonded bobcat 632 not running

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Nate0918

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Apr 21, 2022
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Sitting in my driveway is half-abandoned, frankensteined, propane powered, mostly not running bobcat 632. I'll spare you the story. Ultimately, it won't start and I need to get this running. It starts with some effort initially but if it's shut off, it's impossible to get started again when warmed up. It cranks but doesn't fire up when warmed up. After lots of cranking i can smell propane. Starter fluid doesnt make a difference. I'm new to skid steers in general, but some initial research shows that the resistor inline with the ignition coil has been bypassed. I removed the distributor cap, rotor, condenser, and points. The points looked like they had melted at one time, with a pit in one side and a tiny blob of metal on the other. Otherwise the parts looked worn but ok. The vacuum advance was difficult to move, i dont know what to expect however. I am new to a points distributor as well. My plan was to replace all the ignition parts and see what happens but any advice would be appreciated. Any negative to having that resistor removed?

EDIT: This has the ford 1.6l 4cyl Industrial engine setup for propane. I should mention that when running, it seems to run just fine but at what I would think a high idle. It scoots around and the bucket and arms work well. There is no choke, not needed on propane?
 
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spitzair

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Dec 17, 2009
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Don't know about the propane side of things but I do know that the points and condenser setup on these engines is extremely fussy. You have to set the points exactly and they have to be clean or you'll have all kinds of grief with them. Lots of guys including myself have ditched the points and condenser in these units in favour of a solid state ignition, I myself went with a Pertronix system, the only regret I have is that I disn't do it sooner!

Point gap should be set to 0.025" or 0.64mm and initial timing is 12 degrees BTDC. Also check your valve lash, intake should be 0.008 to 0.010" cold, exhaust 0.018 to 0.020" cold. Also make sure you have a nice fat blue spark, that makes the engine much easier to start. If you can, replace the condenser, I've seen many go bad that look brand new. We even stocked 2 spares at all times before switching over to solid state.
 
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Nate0918

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Apr 21, 2022
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Thanks for the reply. I purchased the pertronix 1843 solid state ignition kit with their coil and plug wires. I will be installing that tonight and we'll see how it goes. I would like to hear from someone regarding the choke on a propane system. Once it fires I could start playing with the choke and see what happens.
 
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Wayne440

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Sep 24, 2017
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281
A choke plate is normally not used with propane. There may or may not be a primer button on the regulator. It might be helpful if you will define "Starter fluid doesnt make a difference"- exactly when are you adding the fluid?
 
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Nate0918

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Apr 21, 2022
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This particular setup doesn't appear to have the primer button on the regulator. As for starter fluid, I gave a quick spray in the intake after removing the air filter and before turning the key. I replaced the air filter then attempted to start. With my previous experience with cars and small engines, I will typically get at least a few fires if the ignition is making spark. On the bobcat I don't get anything except cranking.
 

Wayne440

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Sep 24, 2017
Messages
281
I have a similar engine in my 742 and (knock on wood) have not had any ignition trouble in the several years I have owned it. In fact, I have not had the cap off- as long as it is running good, I'm not going to disturb it. I honestly have no idea if it has points or has been retrofitted.

My experience with the Pertronix in other engines has been good- that should help if your issue is ignition related.
 

oiu789

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Dec 23, 2017
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148
Ford liked a external resistor in the supply circuit make sure you have it or that your coil has a internal resistor.
 

Cary E Sip Sr

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Jan 16, 2023
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I'm a year behind on this conversation , but if it helps anyone , great . My know how came from old school - it's either gas or spark. it's a process of elimination to figure out which. I've had spark at the coil but not at points . Wire was broke inside rubber grommet going through bottom of distributor. , I've had spark at coil and points with test light but not by spinning motor . Test light had good ground at clamp. Points did not have good ground in distributor. Remove , clean w/ tiny steel brush , replace snuggling all screws associated w grounding also. Sniff of wd-40 to prevent corrosion.
 
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