Going to pick up an old 632

[Ster1]

Well, I had some excitement today. I had a few things loose, in case I needed to take them off again. The ROP and the seat were not bolted down, they were just sitting on there. The ROP, over a little time, had worked it's way forward a bit, and I was attempting to bolt it back down, when I shoved it a little too hard, and move it a little too far back. There is a clamp on the wiring harness just in front of the hydraulic tank. That clamp got caught in between the tank and the ROP, and shorted a small ground wire to the main red wire, inside the clamp, inside the wiring harness. So I had a nice hot circuit for a few moments. I ripped the battery out, and grabbed the fire extinguisher, but fortunately there was no fire, just some melted insulation. So, I have to rebuild the harness from the plug in the cab (actually have to cut it out, and replace it), to the engine.

Yikes.

 

[Ster1]

Can anyone tell me, on a 632 (or similar), how the bottom door hinge is supposed to look? There's a hole down there, and I remember taking a bolt and a piece of metal out of there to take the rear door off, but I can't remember what that bolt or that piece of metal was for. A pic would be lovely!

 

[brdgbldr]

Can anyone tell me, on a 632 (or similar), how the bottom door hinge is supposed to look? There's a hole down there, and I remember taking a bolt and a piece of metal out of there to take the rear door off, but I can't remember what that bolt or that piece of metal was for. A pic would be lovely!

If I remember correctly, that piece of metal is the door stop. Sorry I don't have any photos.

 

[Ster1]

I'm just going to keep updating this thread, no point in starting a new one. I just changed hydraulic fluid, I put in about 5 gallons of 15w40 conventional oil, and WOW is that thing noisy now. The manual calls for 10w30, I assumed 15w40 would be ok. That fluid that came out was no nasty, I assumed darn near anything would be an improvement. Maybe I need to just run it for awhile, maybe there's air bubbles in there still.

 

[Jyuma1]

What is the capacity of the hydraulic reservoir? My T133 holds 8 gallons, if yours is similar and it took 5 gallons to fill, sounds like it was quite low.
Hydraulic fluid is generally thinner than motor oil so, I'd stick with the manufacturers recommendation and use 10w30.

When does the noise occur? Driving the loader or operating the lift and/or bucket?

 

[Fabricator]

I'm not sure where you're located, but as Jyuma mentions about hydraulic fluid being thinner combined with cold weather the 15w40 could be pretty thick. Add in old components and you're putting extra strain on things with that thickness.

 

[Ster1]

I'm in Denver, and it's cold here now, but the machine is in my heated shop, so viscosity wouldn't be an issue. I'm thinking air bubbles or maybe I have a pickup tube screen that is blocked. I don't know yet. I'm not working on it this week. Hell I'm not even going to leave the house today or tomorrow The hydraulic capacity of these machines is only 6 gallons, so the fact that I got 5 out is pretty good, considering there's no actual drain plug.

 

[oiu789]

I had a JD hydro drive lawn mower. I took it to the dealer for spring service they were running a good deal. They topped off the hydro with engine oil which some models used mine took hydra oil not eng oil. the system foamed up and was not that easy to flush out this mixture. Are you sure it had engine in it to start with? Also did you use non detergent oil most hydra systems that use eng oil says to use non detergent oil.

 

[Ster1]

I've never run into a machine that specified non-detergent oil for the hydraulic system. I don't know why you'd do that on a filtered system. Anyway, the little bobby specifies 10w30 or 10w40 SE (detergent) oil. That's why I felt safe putting 15w40 in there (that's what I had sitting around). Obviously the machine didn't like it, so I have a bucket of 10w30 SM oil coming.

 

[Hotrod1830]

If you emptied it via a auxillary port until it was empty, you may very well have air in the system. I tried that with my old 632 and it was noisy/ jerky for awhile. Running it on jack stands helped. It eventually cleared up and ran quiet.

 

[Ster1]

If you emptied it via a auxillary port until it was empty, you may very well have air in the system. I tried that with my old 632 and it was noisy/ jerky for awhile. Running it on jack stands helped. It eventually cleared up and ran quiet.

Yep that's exactly what I did, and I'm right there with you thinking I got air in there, probably lots of it. Anyway, I did block it up and ran the hydrostat for a few minutes, back and forth, and no change. I get noise whether I'm using the wheels or the bucket, so I may have trashed that little vane pump. Why the heck isn't that a gear pump anyway?

 

[RandyL]

I have no technical experience concerning this, but I do have a lifetime of automotive situations that may help. I don't think it is a detergent problem, or a viscosity problem. I think it is air related. It can cause skreech, sqeal, and jumpy feel until finally all has been bled out. In autos it can take from hours to days, depending on how you go about it. Once the fluid is foamy due to have air induced into the system it must be left set for hours to let the air seperate from the fluid. At this point, start the motor for 5 seconds or so and shut it back down to let set for another couple hours. You want to purge those air bubbles before they return to foam again. It can be a long process but in time, you will win. Generally, once foamed, leaving the motor running just agravates the situation. Time is the only thing that will turn foamy fluid back to solid fluid and air bubbles. The air bubbles need to be purged. Good luck.

 

[Ster1]

A little update, I ran it for 20-30 minutes this morning, just enough to warm the oil up a little. I noticed it's actually getting better. The way the system is made, there is no return to the tank. The returns are at the inlet of the pumps, and the tank just serves as a reserve to fill that area, and the rest of the system. So, air will have a hard time getting out, because most of it will go right back into the system. In fact, I bet that when the oil is cold, and maybe there is a little flow from the tank, on startup, the air can't get out at all, until the oil warms up and starts to flow back into the tank, and can let the air out. I checked my tank this morning, and it was clear. After my little ride, I saw quite a bit of bubbles / foam in there. That thing is still burping and farting from the fluid change. I'm going to run it a little each day for awhile and see where I'm at. Not only that, but my compressions are looking better and better each time I check it. The rings are starting to break in, and my blowby is not as bad as it used to be. I had thought of installing a Mitsubishi S3L2 I have sitting around. I still may do that, but I'm going to wait and see.

 

[jp8775]

I have a 632 with the ford engine. It simply won't start below -10 around or at 15-32 starts fine I have a block heater does not make a difference. I live in Minnesota. It has electronic ignition and a monster coil. Starting fluid just turns back to liquid when I spray it. Any one have any tricks? I am thinking just swap the engine out for a injected model. This engine is used in many ford cars like Fiesta's.

 

[bobcatzack]

I have a 632 with the ford engine. It simply won't start below -10 around or at 15-32 starts fine I have a block heater does not make a difference. I live in Minnesota. It has electronic ignition and a monster coil. Starting fluid just turns back to liquid when I spray it. Any one have any tricks? I am thinking just swap the engine out for a injected model. This engine is used in many ford cars like Fiesta's.

Sorry to hear about your dilemma with the cold temps!
I am a recent owner of 632 and have struggled much to even get it to start and run. It sure appears the engine may need to be rebuilt at best.
If you ever swap your 632 engine out for a fuel injected model, I can consider buying your old Ford engine, instead of rebuilding mine. Please keep me posted.
FYI, I live in the Chicago suburbs.
Thanks

 

[Ster1]

I'm going to try to attach a pic... let me see how it goes.

It worked This is my hydraulic filter, I just cut it open. That's the filter housing at the top of the pic, looking like it's original. This is the element opened up. No noticeable metal at all, steel or otherwise.

 

[cdmccul]

I'm excited to see your progress. I'm in the process of fine tuning my 632, learning a lot flowing you.

As for the cold start issue, I found out what I think was my problem. I'm still working on it, but my biggest issue was a huge carburetor leak. The bowl warps, so you have to mill it flat. Easy to do, I'll post of people are interested. I still need to get a carb kit (ordered) so I'm using my old gasket - it should get even better.

Anyone with starting problem - does it back fire when you shut it off?

BTW, HaPpY nEw YeAr!!!

 

[Ster1]

It's been awhile since I updated this thread. So after using the machine to clear snow at my shop, which was the first time I actually ran it for awhile, the hydraulic noise did get better, but still not as quiet as I think it should be. It turns out there are 2 different bleeding procedures in the manual, based on serial number, and I did the wrong one. I can't imagine it matters much at this point, but I'm going to try the correct one. I finally got the bucket of 10w30 the manual suggests, and although I seriously doubt there is going to be a difference between the 10w30 and the 15w40 that's in there now, I'm going to try. The 15w40 that's in there is not going to waste either, I have an old grey market Japanese tractor in the shop that's getting that 15w40 in its hydraulic system / gearbox. That old thing should be running and out soon WooHOO! By the way, word to the wise - don't buy grey market Japanese tractors. Parts are a GIANT PITA to get. Anyway, back to bobcats. I have a tiny shop, so when a money-paying job wants to come in, sometimes I have to shuffle machines over to my house to make room. The bobcat is now in my backyard, and shall return soon to hopefully get past this hydraulic issue.

 

[Ster1]

Well, I think it's time for close this thread out. I put the 10w30 in, and quite surprisingly, the hydraulic noise really went down. Didn't disappear altogether, but that machine obviously likes 10w30. I have to admit, I didn't think that oil would make that much difference, but it did! I've been working on this machine, kinda piddling with it when I have the time for almost a year, and it's all done. I was looking forward to selling it and buying something else, but I decided ti give it away. My father in law is almost 80, and he's finally getting around to building his man cave / happy place in Wyoming. He spent summers up there working on ranches as kid and just loves the place. Saratoga is the kind of place where you can drive 5mph through town and wave at everybody. It makes him happy. He's been very generous with me and my family over the years, so this is my way of helping return the favor. He needs something to clear his driveway in the winter, and this little bobcat is the perfect machine for the job. I put a much bigger bucket on it than it really should have, and chains on the tires, a new seat, and I fixed all the lights too (they actually work!). Anyhow, not a terribly exciting ending, but that's what life does sometimes. Looking forward to the next one! Thanks all.

 

[cdmccul]

Sounds like a VERY exciting ending! Congrats on getting it to this point. It will serve him very well if he can stay warm in it.