General questions?

[Petetown]

03 s175 is the transmission oil separate from the hydraulic oil ? Or do they share the same reservoir? Also wondering if you your required to drain the oil to change axle bearings? I would guess that you would want to put fresh oil in if the existing bearings were bad lastly to remove the oil from the gearbox do you pump it out? Thanks in advance I'm a bit new to bobcats in generals I'm trying to get a grasp on things.

 

[Tazza]

The lift/tilt and drive system use the same oil tank. The chain case is a seperate system.
To change the bearings, you need to drain the oil from the chain case. There is a plug at the rear of the chain case behind a flat plate. One side has a plug for the fuel tank, the other into the steel chain case is the chain case oil. Remove this plug and drain the oil out.
Have a helper to empty out drain pans, as there is quite a bit of oil in there.

 

[Petetown]

The lift/tilt and drive system use the same oil tank. The chain case is a seperate system.
To change the bearings, you need to drain the oil from the chain case. There is a plug at the rear of the chain case behind a flat plate. One side has a plug for the fuel tank, the other into the steel chain case is the chain case oil. Remove this plug and drain the oil out.
Have a helper to empty out drain pans, as there is quite a bit of oil in there.

Ya ok thanks for the input that all makes perfect sense is there any trick to getting the axle shaft back into the sprockets?

 

[Tazza]

Ya ok thanks for the input that all makes perfect sense is there any trick to getting the axle shaft back into the sprockets?

The only trick is to have a helper.
I have been lucky enough to have the machine in bits when i did the axle bearings, so i could hand it up so gravity was holding everything in place, very easy, but installing it in the machine, you really need a helper to lift and position the sprocket.
One thing to be careful of is the sprockets can get some really sharp edges!
When installed, check for end play, if there is any, you can ake a skim from he internal part of the washer to pull the axle ina a little bit more to take up the play.

 

[Petetown]

The only trick is to have a helper.
I have been lucky enough to have the machine in bits when i did the axle bearings, so i could hand it up so gravity was holding everything in place, very easy, but installing it in the machine, you really need a helper to lift and position the sprocket.
One thing to be careful of is the sprockets can get some really sharp edges!
When installed, check for end play, if there is any, you can ake a skim from he internal part of the washer to pull the axle ina a little bit more to take up the play.

Ok thanks again for the input on the washers I have a large so it wouldn't be a big deal if I had to machine the washer to tighten up the end play! Are the rears basically the same to change? Besides being tight for space also any idea if a bearing warehouse can cross reference bobcat part numbers ? The bearings I pulled have timken numbers and I have a bobcat seal number I'll also need a some repair sleeves to make the seals work right.

 

[Tazza]

Ok thanks again for the input on the washers I have a large so it wouldn't be a big deal if I had to machine the washer to tighten up the end play! Are the rears basically the same to change? Besides being tight for space also any idea if a bearing warehouse can cross reference bobcat part numbers ? The bearings I pulled have timken numbers and I have a bobcat seal number I'll also need a some repair sleeves to make the seals work right.

Same setup front and back, the only difference was the way the sprocket is installed.
Just work from the Timkin numbers, they are valid and easy to match, they were in stock at my local bearing supply joint.