General maintenance on skidsteer. Also, HI all !

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dirtyb115

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Jun 25, 2007
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hey everyone. My first post here :) I just purchased an older model ski steer. (its actually a koehling scat track, but didnt see a category for them here.) I really just wanted to know what kind of general maintenance i need to do. I heard i need to greese the lift arms and pins ect..., what should i use? how often should i replace oil, filters, ect... What should i check and when. I dont have a manual and i have no idea on these things. any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
 

arlen

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Jun 24, 2007
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skidsteer, not ski steer
I am not a great speller either but you can use spell checker in tools or the google tool bar to check spelling before you post. I could contact the manager and get a parts manual and a service manual you could always try e- bay David
 

Tazza

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I am not a great speller either but you can use spell checker in tools or the google tool bar to check spelling before you post. I could contact the manager and get a parts manual and a service manual you could always try e- bay David
Its a good idea to grease all pivot points regularly. I don't use my machine that much so it gets done every few months. I just use molly grease, its messy as it contains molly but seems to work well.
Engine oil and filter should be changed between 50 and 200 hours. My manual says 50 hours but other users in here do 200. I feel 50 isn't long enough. The oil doesn't look very dirty at 50 hours.
Fuel filters should be done around 500 hours as with the main hydraulic filter from memory.
Hydraulic/hydrostatic oil should be changed after about 1000 hours.
These figures are just a guide! you can never over service your machine. Now if you get any signs of water contamination you must change the oil and filter straight away. If the oil looks milky this is a sign of water.
I'm sure other people will have more things for you to check but this is a starting point.
 

dirtyb115

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Its a good idea to grease all pivot points regularly. I don't use my machine that much so it gets done every few months. I just use molly grease, its messy as it contains molly but seems to work well.
Engine oil and filter should be changed between 50 and 200 hours. My manual says 50 hours but other users in here do 200. I feel 50 isn't long enough. The oil doesn't look very dirty at 50 hours.
Fuel filters should be done around 500 hours as with the main hydraulic filter from memory.
Hydraulic/hydrostatic oil should be changed after about 1000 hours.
These figures are just a guide! you can never over service your machine. Now if you get any signs of water contamination you must change the oil and filter straight away. If the oil looks milky this is a sign of water.
I'm sure other people will have more things for you to check but this is a starting point.
Thank you for the great reply Tazza: I think i may just do everything since i have no idea of the history. So...what kind of motor oil do you use? Rotella T a good choice? What kind, and where can i purchase and dispose of the hydro fluid? Still looking for a manual but no luck yet. Thanks again!
 

Tazza

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Thank you for the great reply Tazza: I think i may just do everything since i have no idea of the history. So...what kind of motor oil do you use? Rotella T a good choice? What kind, and where can i purchase and dispose of the hydro fluid? Still looking for a manual but no luck yet. Thanks again!
I assume your engine is diesel, so you must use a diesel grade engine oil. They are all just about the same. I run penrite 15W40 or castrol 15W40. Just use a good brand oil that MUST be diesel grade.
As for disposal of old oil, we know people in the engine business that get waste oil collected for free. Our rubbish transfer stations offer free disposal of waste oil too, i'm not sure what the deal is over there...
Your hydraulic and chain case oil should be standard engine oil grade like 20W50 or there abouts but you should talk to a dealer first. I don't want to tell you to use it and find out its not rite.
 

dirtyb115

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I assume your engine is diesel, so you must use a diesel grade engine oil. They are all just about the same. I run penrite 15W40 or castrol 15W40. Just use a good brand oil that MUST be diesel grade.
As for disposal of old oil, we know people in the engine business that get waste oil collected for free. Our rubbish transfer stations offer free disposal of waste oil too, i'm not sure what the deal is over there...
Your hydraulic and chain case oil should be standard engine oil grade like 20W50 or there abouts but you should talk to a dealer first. I don't want to tell you to use it and find out its not rite.
Yes, its diesel(i never mentioned model, its a koehlring scat trak 1350). I finally got a chance to look over everything and found some general maintenance stuff on the side of the engine compartment. It recomends 10w30 for the hydraulic fluid. I checked the fluid level, and it was good. I cant figure out where to check/add for the chain case. there are 2 square plates on each side, is this where i should be looking? Hopefully ill get some time to work on it this weekend. Wish me luck! Thanks!
 

Tazza

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Yes, its diesel(i never mentioned model, its a koehlring scat trak 1350). I finally got a chance to look over everything and found some general maintenance stuff on the side of the engine compartment. It recomends 10w30 for the hydraulic fluid. I checked the fluid level, and it was good. I cant figure out where to check/add for the chain case. there are 2 square plates on each side, is this where i should be looking? Hopefully ill get some time to work on it this weekend. Wish me luck! Thanks!
I have no idea where to check the chain case oil....my 743 has a bolt at the front you remove to check the level. If you can feel oil or if it just trickles out its correct.
To add oil you need to remove a panel on the top.
The plates you speak of sound like hydro motor covers to me more that to gain access to the chain case.
10W30 sounds rite for hydro oil!
 

Zorack

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Yes, its diesel(i never mentioned model, its a koehlring scat trak 1350). I finally got a chance to look over everything and found some general maintenance stuff on the side of the engine compartment. It recomends 10w30 for the hydraulic fluid. I checked the fluid level, and it was good. I cant figure out where to check/add for the chain case. there are 2 square plates on each side, is this where i should be looking? Hopefully ill get some time to work on it this weekend. Wish me luck! Thanks!
dirtyb115: I tried a google for a service manual for your model and ebay didn't have any,if you can find a dealer nearby you might have better luck at getting one that way. I got my S220 service manual through ebay,if I happen to see one listed somewhere I'll be sure to let you know. Bert
 

dirtyb115

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Jun 25, 2007
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115
dirtyb115: I tried a google for a service manual for your model and ebay didn't have any,if you can find a dealer nearby you might have better luck at getting one that way. I got my S220 service manual through ebay,if I happen to see one listed somewhere I'll be sure to let you know. Bert
Well, i cant even beleive it. First full day out running the machine and its broken. Just my luck..... Anyways, it only turns one way now. Left side drive is fine, but the right side only moves a small amount forward and backward. Almost seems like there is a kink in drive chain on the right side maybe? It will move foward just a bit, and backward just a bit, but that is all. So now i got no manual, dont know even where to start, and its stuck in the woods.... I am thinking i need to remove the side plate behind the wheels, but dont even know where to start really. Has anyone ever had these symptoms? Does it sound like a kinked chain? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Tazza

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Well, i cant even beleive it. First full day out running the machine and its broken. Just my luck..... Anyways, it only turns one way now. Left side drive is fine, but the right side only moves a small amount forward and backward. Almost seems like there is a kink in drive chain on the right side maybe? It will move foward just a bit, and backward just a bit, but that is all. So now i got no manual, dont know even where to start, and its stuck in the woods.... I am thinking i need to remove the side plate behind the wheels, but dont even know where to start really. Has anyone ever had these symptoms? Does it sound like a kinked chain? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
When you push the right lever forward does the lever push back at you? like its fighting? If so, its a sign the hydrostats are working but the motors are un-able to move.
The only other thing i can think of if the park brake. I'm not sure if these machines use a pin to go through the chain or not. It *may* not be disengaging and the pin on the fest is broken. But i don't know how these machines work so i'm just guessing.
Can you hear the engine bog down when you try the right stick? if so, again the hydrostats sound to be working and you may indeed have a broken chain thats hooked up.
I'm sure others will reply with better answers than i have.
Good luck!
 

dirtyb115

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Jun 25, 2007
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When you push the right lever forward does the lever push back at you? like its fighting? If so, its a sign the hydrostats are working but the motors are un-able to move.
The only other thing i can think of if the park brake. I'm not sure if these machines use a pin to go through the chain or not. It *may* not be disengaging and the pin on the fest is broken. But i don't know how these machines work so i'm just guessing.
Can you hear the engine bog down when you try the right stick? if so, again the hydrostats sound to be working and you may indeed have a broken chain thats hooked up.
I'm sure others will reply with better answers than i have.
Good luck!
Thanks for the reply Tazza. The engine definitely bogs down when i hit the right stick. And it does go so far foward but then stops hard, and then the same distance backward, and its always in the same spot, so right away i felt like it was a chain. Are there usually adjustments on the chain? I guess ill just have to start taking it apart still i find it. Ill keep you posted, im sure ill have more questions, like where do i get new chain ect..
 

Zorack

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Thanks for the reply Tazza. The engine definitely bogs down when i hit the right stick. And it does go so far foward but then stops hard, and then the same distance backward, and its always in the same spot, so right away i felt like it was a chain. Are there usually adjustments on the chain? I guess ill just have to start taking it apart still i find it. Ill keep you posted, im sure ill have more questions, like where do i get new chain ect..
dirtyb115: Do you happen to know the model number and how old is your machine(year made?)? There should be a plaque somewhere on the inside of the cab or maybe the number if it's on the side of the cab(outside). I'd really like to find the manual for you or even a dealer(if still around)nearby to you. Hate to see you have so much trouble especially since you just bought it.
 

dirtyb115

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Jun 25, 2007
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dirtyb115: Do you happen to know the model number and how old is your machine(year made?)? There should be a plaque somewhere on the inside of the cab or maybe the number if it's on the side of the cab(outside). I'd really like to find the manual for you or even a dealer(if still around)nearby to you. Hate to see you have so much trouble especially since you just bought it.
It does have the plaque, ill have to go look today (its about 20 min away from my house on some land i bought.) I know it was built in the late 80's. As far as i know volvo took over the scat trak line, but i dont know if they still make parts or anything. Guess i should've spent the extra money and got that 743 i was looking at :( Thanks for helping me, i do appeciate it, this site is great.
 

dirtyb115

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Jun 25, 2007
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It does have the plaque, ill have to go look today (its about 20 min away from my house on some land i bought.) I know it was built in the late 80's. As far as i know volvo took over the scat trak line, but i dont know if they still make parts or anything. Guess i should've spent the extra money and got that 743 i was looking at :( Thanks for helping me, i do appeciate it, this site is great.
Update. Well i went out to work on it yesterday. I took the right side wheels off, and then an access plate on the side. To my surprise the chain was not broken or kinked. It was however extremely tight. So i took a flashlight and saw a chunk of metal in between the chain and sprocket on the rear wheel. I was able to loossen tension on the chain with an ajuster plate, which gave enough slack to get the chain moving again. Of course the metal dropped back into the oil, so looks like ill be replacing the drive oil this week, but at least it is moving again. When i was adjusting the chain tension, i noticed that one of the 3 bolts holding the bracket was missing, so im pretty sure that bolt head dropped into the tank and caused the problem. I was so happy i could move it again, i forgot to get the serial number. More to come. BTW, how tight should the chains be?
 
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