Finally!

[Skiddy]

Howdy i'm new here! I just bought a 642B basket case for 2300. motor is in pieces all steel is mint but lots of paint scratch's. Rops was removed and discarded by previous owner. I am starting a complete restoration bare frame up. If I end up with 6k in it I will be happy as a lark. I plan to go through all components and rebuild as necasary. Questions 1. can someone identify a dealer that don't rob you on parts? my local one does. 2. can someone identify a source for a rops. The guy gave me a mint rops for a newer machine with the rounded corners. ( maybe trade?) 3. how would I tie into the hydraulics to operate a homemade quick tach? 4 the hour meter has 2200 on it... what are my chances of the chains and sprockets being in good shape. 5. and most important where can I buy parts at brotherinlaw prices? LOL thanks

 

[brettk1]

my 642b has a Mitsubishi engine (4g32) that I recently rebuilt. The best prices on rebuilt kits was here, http://www.motorpowerinc.com/pricing/mitsubishi.html, Very nice people to deal with.

 

[Skiddy]

my 642b has a Mitsubishi engine (4g32) that I recently rebuilt. The best prices on rebuilt kits was here, http://www.motorpowerinc.com/pricing/mitsubishi.html, Very nice people to deal with.

were their parts good quality?

 

[brettk1]

were their parts good quality?

Well the machine shop that did my valves and bored out cylinders said that they have used these people before and were impressed at the quality for the price. This shop does a lot of racing engines so I guess the answer is yes; I know I was satisfied.

 

[Tazza]

Well the machine shop that did my valves and bored out cylinders said that they have used these people before and were impressed at the quality for the price. This shop does a lot of racing engines so I guess the answer is yes; I know I was satisfied.

If the chain case oil was kept clean the chains and sprockets should be good, but if there was a leak and ran low or water you may need new bearings and chain. All you can do is crack it all open and have a look. Bearings and chain aren't that expensive if required.

 

[thetool]

If the chain case oil was kept clean the chains and sprockets should be good, but if there was a leak and ran low or water you may need new bearings and chain. All you can do is crack it all open and have a look. Bearings and chain aren't that expensive if required.

Hi and welcome to the forum!
I don't think you can make your ROPS fit. Talk to Mark, or Bobcat Service Manager about a decent deal on a used one, or me....=).
A home-made power-bob-tach is something I've been thinking about lately, too. It's a tricky, high-dollar set-up on the newer machines. I never did like the way they mounted the valve, but they had their reasons, I guess.
I haven't thought about them on a north-south machine. Do you by chance have a four-spool control valve?
Yah-first things first-check out your chaincase right away like Tazza said. Engine out, all tore apart, you're gonna want to make sure that puppy's right before you put it back together.

 

[TriHonu]

Hi and welcome to the forum!
I don't think you can make your ROPS fit. Talk to Mark, or Bobcat Service Manager about a decent deal on a used one, or me....=).
A home-made power-bob-tach is something I've been thinking about lately, too. It's a tricky, high-dollar set-up on the newer machines. I never did like the way they mounted the valve, but they had their reasons, I guess.
I haven't thought about them on a north-south machine. Do you by chance have a four-spool control valve?
Yah-first things first-check out your chaincase right away like Tazza said. Engine out, all tore apart, you're gonna want to make sure that puppy's right before you put it back together.

You might want to consider using an electric actuator for the power Bob-Tach rather than a hydraulic cylinder.
I converted my 763 and my neighbors 753 to power Bob-Tach using 12v 12" stroke 500 lb actuators. I bought the longer pivot pins that go through the Bob-Tach handles from Bobcat. These are the same parts they use to connect the hydraulic cylinder. They are about $40 for the pair. I had to make custom ends for the actuator to connect the actuator to the pins.
A double pole double throw switch in the cab, with a 3 wire cable ran through the cab and down the boom to control the actuator.
They work well and they are much cheaper and easier to fabricate. If you happen to destroy the actuator (by accident of course), it only takes a couple of minutes to unplug the actuator and unscrew two bolts and have it out of the way and still be able to use the manual handles.

 

[thetool]

You might want to consider using an electric actuator for the power Bob-Tach rather than a hydraulic cylinder.
I converted my 763 and my neighbors 753 to power Bob-Tach using 12v 12" stroke 500 lb actuators. I bought the longer pivot pins that go through the Bob-Tach handles from Bobcat. These are the same parts they use to connect the hydraulic cylinder. They are about $40 for the pair. I had to make custom ends for the actuator to connect the actuator to the pins.
A double pole double throw switch in the cab, with a 3 wire cable ran through the cab and down the boom to control the actuator.
They work well and they are much cheaper and easier to fabricate. If you happen to destroy the actuator (by accident of course), it only takes a couple of minutes to unplug the actuator and unscrew two bolts and have it out of the way and still be able to use the manual handles.

Hey TriHonu that is a great idea and blows all my ideas right out of the water!......=). All that thinking for nothing.....
Have you or could you post a pic of that setup? I'd really like to see it.

 

[jerry]

Hey TriHonu that is a great idea and blows all my ideas right out of the water!......=). All that thinking for nothing.....
Have you or could you post a pic of that setup? I'd really like to see it.

This is something I think a lot of guys would be interested in, myself included. This could be adapted to older machines? approx material cost? Picture would be nice.

 

[TriHonu]

This is something I think a lot of guys would be interested in, myself included. This could be adapted to older machines? approx material cost? Picture would be nice.

Quote: Shane - 'Have you or could you post a pic of that setup? I'd really like to see it.'

I did a write up (with pics and diagrams) of my conversion. It is posted in the Homemade area as Electric Power Bobtach.

Quote: Jerry - 'This could be adapted to older machines? approx material cost?'

Yes it can be added to older machines. Mine is a C-Series and my buddies is a G-Series.
I already had an actuator and my cost was about $80. My buddy bought a used actuator for $90 and we did his for less than $200. I have a small milling machine and made the adapters to mount the actuator to the Bobtach. If you have a good drill press and welder you can make the adapters yourself. If you happen to have a buddy with a metal lathe you can make them fast and cheap. I wanted my adapters to fit the actuator with out any slop so my holes were bored on the mill to the exact size of the actuator piston and base.

 

[Rocky60]

You might want to consider using an electric actuator for the power Bob-Tach rather than a hydraulic cylinder.
I converted my 763 and my neighbors 753 to power Bob-Tach using 12v 12" stroke 500 lb actuators. I bought the longer pivot pins that go through the Bob-Tach handles from Bobcat. These are the same parts they use to connect the hydraulic cylinder. They are about $40 for the pair. I had to make custom ends for the actuator to connect the actuator to the pins.
A double pole double throw switch in the cab, with a 3 wire cable ran through the cab and down the boom to control the actuator.
They work well and they are much cheaper and easier to fabricate. If you happen to destroy the actuator (by accident of course), it only takes a couple of minutes to unplug the actuator and unscrew two bolts and have it out of the way and still be able to use the manual handles.

I am trying to build a electric Bob Tach that Trihonu posted. I am trying to get the parts that Trihonu designed and posted....I do not know how to use the computer design program which was listed in the posting.....any thoughts? Perfered contact via my email [email protected] thanks Rick

 

[renopker]

I am trying to build a electric Bob Tach that Trihonu posted. I am trying to get the parts that Trihonu designed and posted....I do not know how to use the computer design program which was listed in the posting.....any thoughts? Perfered contact via my email [email protected] thanks Rick

I have been restoring a 642 ground up. I'm at the point were I'm building a new bob tach with a hyd cylinder along with dual tilt cylinders. I have drawn all the parts out in a DFX file to get plasma cut out. As fare as the hyd tach I have decided to use power steering a pump with a remote reservoir (dodge caravan). Run it on the belt with a solenoid valve.

 

[Tazza]

I have been restoring a 642 ground up. I'm at the point were I'm building a new bob tach with a hyd cylinder along with dual tilt cylinders. I have drawn all the parts out in a DFX file to get plasma cut out. As fare as the hyd tach I have decided to use power steering a pump with a remote reservoir (dodge caravan). Run it on the belt with a solenoid valve.

Its not easier to run it off your aux hydraulics with an electric diverter valve? Less 'crap' to mount somewhere, just a thought.

 

[renopker]

Its not easier to run it off your aux hydraulics with an electric diverter valve? Less 'crap' to mount somewhere, just a thought.

Wouldnt you have to mount the diverter valve, splice in to the aux hyd, run lines ? Horse a peace maybe.

 

[Tazza]

Wouldnt you have to mount the diverter valve, splice in to the aux hyd, run lines ? Horse a peace maybe.

Yeah, tap into the lines at the quick couplers, run hoses down the arms and then up at the pivot point to the cylinder. Just not exactly sure how much room you will have to install the diverter valve though.

 

[mrdeere1959]

Yeah, tap into the lines at the quick couplers, run hoses down the arms and then up at the pivot point to the cylinder. Just not exactly sure how much room you will have to install the diverter valve though.

why do you need a diverter valve? If your use an attachment that needs aux you need to get out of machine to hook it up anyway. so just unplug bobtach and plug in attachment. same in reverse when unhooking

 

[Tazza]

why do you need a diverter valve? If your use an attachment that needs aux you need to get out of machine to hook it up anyway. so just unplug bobtach and plug in attachment. same in reverse when unhooking

This is a good point. If it does have aux hydraulics on the attachment, you will need to get out of the cab to hook them up any way.
I have seen some sexy no fuss hydraulic couplers that you just drive up, attach the attachment to the bobtach and the two parts mate together and you are off. I suspect they would be really expensive and they didn't look too robust.