Drive Belt Breaks repeatedly

[Tazza]

Oh yeah!, the V-cut is because I made the chain very tight and It will not slip off.....

Good idea!
I did get a pictures of the *proper* engine removal tool but i figure for something that will be only used a few times its not worth the effort to build. I like the chain idea, nice and simple!

 

[conc2steel]

We feel your pain... Fishfiles is on the money.
Can you get a good look at the belt and the area of the break? Does it show excessive wear on the drive surface or the back of the belt? The belt damage could help lead you to the problem.
A spontaneous break on a new belt could come from running it too tight and tearing the web layers in the belt. Did you turn the pulleys and make sure the grooves were clean and no remnants of the last belt were stuck on the pulley?
If you see excessive wear on the drive surface either the belt was not tight enough or you have excessive resistance in the Hydrostatic/Hydraulic pump or the pulleys are worn and not gripping the belt properly.
If you have wear on the back of the belt you idler may have a bearing that froze after it got warm enough.
You could have got a defective belt.
I would get a good light and mirror and do a careful inspection. When you get the belt out I would also check the pump drive pulley for run-out. Maybe the shaft bent when the previous belt jammed?
Pulling the engine and pumps is a project. I wouldn't pull them unless absolutely necessary.
My .02 worth.

Thanks for the input. I took a good look at the belt once I removed it, it seemed to tear with no obvious burn marks. There were a few teeth on the belt that were pretty torn up. I think I have found the culprit! RUST... I purchase this machine from the Public Works in SC and it sat for about a year prior to me purchasing it. When I identified that the belt was torn up along the V-Groves I looked hard at the drive pully and identified that there was scaling rust that looks as though it was GRABBING the bet and not slipping at all when under stress... in effect the drive pully would just tear the belt. FIX: NAVAL JELLY, A WIRE BRUSH, AND A BUNCH OF ELBOW GEEASE. Looks as good as new now, we'll see how it pans out.

 

[conc2steel]

Thanks for the input. I took a good look at the belt once I removed it, it seemed to tear with no obvious burn marks. There were a few teeth on the belt that were pretty torn up. I think I have found the culprit! RUST... I purchase this machine from the Public Works in SC and it sat for about a year prior to me purchasing it. When I identified that the belt was torn up along the V-Groves I looked hard at the drive pully and identified that there was scaling rust that looks as though it was GRABBING the bet and not slipping at all when under stress... in effect the drive pully would just tear the belt. FIX: NAVAL JELLY, A WIRE BRUSH, AND A BUNCH OF ELBOW GEEASE. Looks as good as new now, we'll see how it pans out.

Removing the rust was the fix, no more breaks.

 

[Tazza]

Removing the rust was the fix, no more breaks.

Glad you got it sorted!
On my 751 i actually sand blasted both pullies so they are smooth as. I remember a bit if rust on there before blasting it, it has about an hour up since the re-build and hasn't eaten my drive belt (yet).