I am new to the board but have visited several times. I need help on my 2007 CT322. Let me start by saying I had a wiring harness issue when I first bought the machine and it had about 700 hours on it. My machine is a hand and foot and the foot pedals locked out on me. Local JD service guy came out and said it needed a new wiring harness and it was going to be about $1000 if memory serves. Maybe more. Anyway, he patched around it and I have had no further problem, until now. Just bought a brand new root grapple and hooked it up to my machine. It is the first attachment I have had on it that used aux. hydraulics. My control on the right hand steering bar is unlocked but the spool in the valve is locked up and will not move. The solenoid there has me locked out. I did take the cable from the control handle loose at the valve and the cable is free. The switch on the overhead dash doesn't release the interlock. I opened everything up, lifted the seat and there is a red wire and purple wire going to that solenoid for the aux. spool. I need help testing it backwards to see where the issue is. Worst case can I bypass the interlock? Thanks in advance for any help.
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The valve is operated by the mechanical cable from the right hand steering handle. The interlock is solenoid that pins the spool. The solenoid is not firing to unlock the valve.So it is a mechanical cable from the valve to the Handle? On other machines the lock is a solenoid with a lock pin that locks the spool. If thats the case many times you can remove the pin to unlock it
Was thinking the two wires coming out of the interlock solenoid would be a positive and a ground. Reckoned I was not getting current to it but thought if I could find the ground I would put 12v on the other side and see if the interlock energized. Checked both with a Fluke set on continuity and was expecting the ground to show continuity to the frame. Wrong. Both leads going to the switch beeped intermittently. Now I am confused.So it is a mechanical cable from the valve to the Handle? On other machines the lock is a solenoid with a lock pin that locks the spool. If thats the case many times you can remove the pin to unlock it
On the older deere machines these locks grounded through the display and those often failed. If trying to jumper it I would disconnect both wires and then try putting voltage to it. Intermittent continuity would lead a guy to think it is burned out. If you try putting voltage to it I would bet the continuity goes away as the load increasesWas thinking the two wires coming out of the interlock solenoid would be a positive and a ground. Reckoned I was not getting current to it but thought if I could find the ground I would put 12v on the other side and see if the interlock energized. Checked both with a Fluke set on continuity and was expecting the ground to show continuity to the frame. Wrong. Both leads going to the switch beeped intermittently. Now I am confused.
I have not tested the solenoid itself. Was checking plug going to it, or back toward the relay/switch trying to determine which wire was ground. Thought if I could find which side of the plug was ground I could ground that side of solenoid and put 12v on the other side. I guess the coil wouldn't care about polarity?? I also thought about making a harness and tie the aux hyd lock into either the boom or bucket so at least that way the interlock would still work.On the older deere machines these locks grounded through the display and those often failed. If trying to jumper it I would disconnect both wires and then try putting voltage to it. Intermittent continuity would lead a guy to think it is burned out. If you try putting voltage to it I would bet the continuity goes away as the load increases
That shouldwork if it is the harness. Can you switch locks between aux and one of the other functions to test?I have not tested the solenoid itself. Was checking plug going to it, or back toward the relay/switch trying to determine which wire was ground. Thought if I could find which side of the plug was ground I could ground that side of solenoid and put 12v on the other side. I guess the coil wouldn't care about polarity?? I also thought about making a harness and tie the aux hyd lock into either the boom or bucket so at least that way the interlock would still work.
The bucket and mast have different weatherhead type connectors than the aux interlock. To connect one of them to the aux will require some creative work as the weatherhead connecters have really small pins. I am not a JD tech as you can see but I do find it difficult to do troubleshooting since you need someone in the seat and buckled in to tell what is going on. I am guessing a real tech would be able to fool the rest of the interlocks in order to fire the solenoids. As I mentioned before the harness was monkeyed with by the last JD service guy to work on it to get the bucket and mast unlocked. There is a gremlin somewhere that has been left for me to find. I am tempted to take the aux solenoid out and plug the hole. The machine has some US and some metric fasteners and I am wondering if the solenoid switch is standard pipe threads or some arrangement with an o-ring seal.That shouldwork if it is the harness. Can you switch locks between aux and one of the other functions to test?
A little more trouble-shooting today. What I thought was a solenoid is just a switch that tells the panel where the spool is at. It actuates a detent ball off of the spool. Pulled that puppy out and it has nothing to do with the spool not moving. The cable that operates the bell crank that in turn actuates the spool is free. With the cable loose I had to whack the bell crank with a hammer and piece of 2x4 and the spool moved. The machine is outside and it came up a storm so I stopped. My first thought was the spool is frozen. That doesn't make sense as it is sealed and has presence of oil. Thinking now the bell crank itself might be rusted on the shaft as it is exposed to all the crud that the skid steer sees. Hoping that is it.The bucket and mast have different weatherhead type connectors than the aux interlock. To connect one of them to the aux will require some creative work as the weatherhead connecters have really small pins. I am not a JD tech as you can see but I do find it difficult to do troubleshooting since you need someone in the seat and buckled in to tell what is going on. I am guessing a real tech would be able to fool the rest of the interlocks in order to fire the solenoids. As I mentioned before the harness was monkeyed with by the last JD service guy to work on it to get the bucket and mast unlocked. There is a gremlin somewhere that has been left for me to find. I am tempted to take the aux solenoid out and plug the hole. The machine has some US and some metric fasteners and I am wondering if the solenoid switch is standard pipe threads or some arrangement with an o-ring seal.
Nope. Just went out and checked. The bell crank is free. The spool is stuck. Any suggestions on how to free it up without removing the entire valve body would be appreciated.A little more trouble-shooting today. What I thought was a solenoid is just a switch that tells the panel where the spool is at. It actuates a detent ball off of the spool. Pulled that puppy out and it has nothing to do with the spool not moving. The cable that operates the bell crank that in turn actuates the spool is free. With the cable loose I had to whack the bell crank with a hammer and piece of 2x4 and the spool moved. The machine is outside and it came up a storm so I stopped. My first thought was the spool is frozen. That doesn't make sense as it is sealed and has presence of oil. Thinking now the bell crank itself might be rusted on the shaft as it is exposed to all the crud that the skid steer sees. Hoping that is it.
So pounding on it moved the spool? I would keep working it back and forth maybe spray some penetrating oil on it. There are some tight tolerences and if it didn't move for a while it might have rusted in s spot that was not in oil. The older 200 series had a bypass switch box that plugged in under the cab so you can run and start the achine with the cab up.Nope. Just went out and checked. The bell crank is free. The spool is stuck. Any suggestions on how to free it up without removing the entire valve body would be appreciated.
I was afraid to hit t too hard. It moved about 1/4' toward the end cap. Where would I apply lubricant? If I can get the end cap off what will I see there?So pounding on it moved the spool? I would keep working it back and forth maybe spray some penetrating oil on it. There are some tight tolerences and if it didn't move for a while it might have rusted in s spot that was not in oil. The older 200 series had a bypass switch box that plugged in under the cab so you can run and start the achine with the cab up.
If it is the aux spool when you take the end cap off there may be springs and balls in there for the detent. wrap a rag around it to contain as many as possible when you take it off.I was afraid to hit t too hard. It moved about 1/4' toward the end cap. Where would I apply lubricant? If I can get the end cap off what will I see there?
And how difficult will that be to re-assemble. Thinking that might be where the problem lies. this thing came off of a dairy farm and when I got it the entire cavity where the control valve is bolted was in about 4 inches of muck.If it is the aux spool when you take the end cap off there may be springs and balls in there for the detent. wrap a rag around it to contain as many as possible when you take it off.
The detent that actually told the panel where the spool was was in the switch that I removed. Spring loaded ball in the switch and a groove in the spool to indicate center.And how difficult will that be to re-assemble. Thinking that might be where the problem lies. this thing came off of a dairy farm and when I got it the entire cavity where the control valve is bolted was in about 4 inches of muck.
The detent that I am thinking of is to hold the spool in continuous flow and usually at the end of the spool.The detent that actually told the panel where the spool was was in the switch that I removed. Spring loaded ball in the switch and a groove in the spool to indicate center.
Got the spool freed up. Made an attachment for my slide hammer out of a clevis and bolted it up where the control cable attached to the linkage. Put penetrating oil in the port where the proximity switch went. Kept pecking it back and forth until it traveled the full travel. Now it centers itself and acts fine. Problem is now I can't get the pressure off the flat face connectors where the hoses connect for the grapple. Had them on the other day but can't get them to go on now. It is like there is pressure at the coupling. I have boom and bucket lowered and have cycled all the controls with motor off to relieve pressure.The detent that I am thinking of is to hold the spool in continuous flow and usually at the end of the spool.
Hooked the ends of the hoses on the grapple together. Pressure equalized....Voila!!! Everything working. Happy, Happy, Happy!!Got the spool freed up. Made an attachment for my slide hammer out of a clevis and bolted it up where the control cable attached to the linkage. Put penetrating oil in the port where the proximity switch went. Kept pecking it back and forth until it traveled the full travel. Now it centers itself and acts fine. Problem is now I can't get the pressure off the flat face connectors where the hoses connect for the grapple. Had them on the other day but can't get them to go on now. It is like there is pressure at the coupling. I have boom and bucket lowered and have cycled all the controls with motor off to relieve pressure.
Gotta get lucky once in a while. That was your one cheap and easy fixHooked the ends of the hoses on the grapple together. Pressure equalized....Voila!!! Everything working. Happy, Happy, Happy!!
