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Bobcat Skidsteer Forums
General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
charge pressure dropping under load
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<blockquote data-quote="Tazza" data-source="post: 7156" data-attributes="member: 82"><p>Drive motors are pretty simple, you just need to be careful with aligning the valve plate. I have never done it myself, but i have a book on it and another member of the forum has done it and he said it was very easy. Just keep it all clean and use lots of oil for re-assembly.</p><p>I don't know just what seals are inside the motors, i do know bobcat want 2 arms and a leg for the kit. You can get the seals from your local hydraulic seal shop much cheaper though.</p><p>I'm not too sure if it will be a seal problem or just wear between the outer housing and the geroler. I still don't fully understand how this setup works, but it works well.</p><p>The symptoms you describe still sound like a blocked bronze filter to me, even though it has been replaced. Did it work properly when it was changed? Mine was working well then i pulled the motor and pump out to paint the machine. When it was all back together it was doing the same thing as you mention. It turns out the filter needed another clean. Cleaned it up and it was good to go.</p><p>One thing you can try to see if the pump is cavetating is to remove the pressure switch and install a valve with clear tubing running back to the hydro oil tank. There should be no bubbles when the machine is running. If there are bubbles you have a restriction somewhere causing cavetation or low charge pressure. This is what bobcat sent me a fax detailing this for removing air from the system too.</p><p>I don't know enough about the system to know how much case drain is acceptable. I know my 743 must have a fair bit as on a hill it will creep quite a bit without the brake on. One machine i sold a few months back did not move any where near as much.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tazza, post: 7156, member: 82"] Drive motors are pretty simple, you just need to be careful with aligning the valve plate. I have never done it myself, but i have a book on it and another member of the forum has done it and he said it was very easy. Just keep it all clean and use lots of oil for re-assembly. I don't know just what seals are inside the motors, i do know bobcat want 2 arms and a leg for the kit. You can get the seals from your local hydraulic seal shop much cheaper though. I'm not too sure if it will be a seal problem or just wear between the outer housing and the geroler. I still don't fully understand how this setup works, but it works well. The symptoms you describe still sound like a blocked bronze filter to me, even though it has been replaced. Did it work properly when it was changed? Mine was working well then i pulled the motor and pump out to paint the machine. When it was all back together it was doing the same thing as you mention. It turns out the filter needed another clean. Cleaned it up and it was good to go. One thing you can try to see if the pump is cavetating is to remove the pressure switch and install a valve with clear tubing running back to the hydro oil tank. There should be no bubbles when the machine is running. If there are bubbles you have a restriction somewhere causing cavetation or low charge pressure. This is what bobcat sent me a fax detailing this for removing air from the system too. I don't know enough about the system to know how much case drain is acceptable. I know my 743 must have a fair bit as on a hill it will creep quite a bit without the brake on. One machine i sold a few months back did not move any where near as much. [/QUOTE]
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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
charge pressure dropping under load
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