my first time posting here. I just wanted to say that just about everything you can think of has someone who has posted on it here. I will have to say that I have found several that are very close to my problem but I have not found the fix yet. 2 weeks ago I moved my 2003 Bobcat T-190 to my property in NC. from Georgia. I noticed a small amount of creep while loading so I knew the first thing to do once I arrived was to block it up and find the neutral spot. Once that was complete we added some AW32 to the reservoir because I had a small leak from the tilt cylinders. After about three hours of digging dirt and trying to remove an old stump. I noticed that the machine was bucking while simply driving forward. I tried it backwards and same thing. I adjusted throttle, same thing. I elevated machine and readjusted the creep back to neutral to fine tune it. no fix. went back this past weekend to change the filters and case drain filters, no change. while up on blocks I ran through the motions and no problem everything worked good with no surging. All bucket operations work fine on the ground and in the air. once it was back on the ground I did the WAO full throttle in a straight line on level ground. I felt the pulsating of the sticks trying to push back against my hands as it was going forward. I was able to plant my arms on the lap bar and my knees so I could keep the surging down to a minimum because of operator error. I have several thousand hours on a track machine and this problem is very similar to the many times when I have tried to drive and turn on concrete and pavement. I cannot figure this one out . so any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated. I have the old style sticks with foot controls. Also is there a possibility that the AW32 is not mixing well with the AW46. I know the system is a closed loop and it can take a while for it to circulate,( maybe three hours was enough to mix it up) I did not see any foaming and I over filled so it naturally has purged it self thru the vent tube.
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Thanks for replying Tazza, The hub oil is due now. I will be onsite in NC. tomorrow and I will be doing that change over a couple of days since I have other items that I will be working on as well. I have to stop by Bob Cat In Atlanta and pick up the special oil since no one else carries it. It is good to know that the oils mix, I was contemplating picking up 3 pails of AW46 also and do a complete change out. to answer your question I have only put 700 hours on this machine since I purchased it so I am about 200 past due. it would be amazing if the 1.5 oz in two hubs made this difference, but non the less it has to be done. If this needs to be done before we can proceed with any more trouble shooting , then let me complete this work and I will post results by Friday. any tricks or tips for the task I am about to embark on would be appreciated.I don't see the oils not mixing, they all mix together just fine.
When did you last change the hub oil in the final drives?
I have never worked on a tracked machine, hopefully someone that has, will post advise too.Thanks for replying Tazza, The hub oil is due now. I will be onsite in NC. tomorrow and I will be doing that change over a couple of days since I have other items that I will be working on as well. I have to stop by Bob Cat In Atlanta and pick up the special oil since no one else carries it. It is good to know that the oils mix, I was contemplating picking up 3 pails of AW46 also and do a complete change out. to answer your question I have only put 700 hours on this machine since I purchased it so I am about 200 past due. it would be amazing if the 1.5 oz in two hubs made this difference, but non the less it has to be done. If this needs to be done before we can proceed with any more trouble shooting , then let me complete this work and I will post results by Friday. any tricks or tips for the task I am about to embark on would be appreciated.
The main advise i have seen is to check the hub oil as its drained out to look for metal particles that would indicate wear of bearings/seals.
One other thing that can cause jerking/surging is the steering linkages. I have an S250 that when i bought it, you couldn't do any fine work with it as it would just jump forward of backwards. The problem was the aluminium arms that bolt to the pump to join to the steering levers. They came loose and the square holes were no longer square, this allowed the arms to move on their own giving erratic controls.I have never worked on a tracked machine, hopefully someone that has, will post advise too.
The main advise i have seen is to check the hub oil as its drained out to look for metal particles that would indicate wear of bearings/seals.
Just another thing to ensure is right.
siduramaxde
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2005
- Messages
- 362
Do change the outer hub oil. I'm not sure if you have to remove the sprocket to gain access to the oil plug on a t190. Anyway, I highly doubt that changing the hub oil will help with your problem. All the oil does is lubricate the outer bearing in the drive motor. Without the oil, the motor will destroy itself. I would be looking at the shock absorbers of the steering linkage.One other thing that can cause jerking/surging is the steering linkages. I have an S250 that when i bought it, you couldn't do any fine work with it as it would just jump forward of backwards. The problem was the aluminium arms that bolt to the pump to join to the steering levers. They came loose and the square holes were no longer square, this allowed the arms to move on their own giving erratic controls.
Just another thing to ensure is right.
I adjusted the pintal arms twice in the same day and I was able to get it in neutral. so definitely not any play there, also that part tends to be one where if I'm trying to go slow and easy while doing fork lift operations the machine will jerk and if you just go forward with both sticks the jerkiness will stop. this problem is much worse and dose not stop ever. The bucking is so severe that it has a pulsing action that seems to push the sticks backwards and forwards no matter how hard I hold them. to make it stop I simply just let go. all other hydro functions work perfectly. this action just started all of the sudden and recently after I added a mix of fluid AW32 to the reservoir. Also the outer hub lube did not help, nor did the hydro filter change, or case drain filters. Non the less it was time for this PM anyway. back to square one. the severe shaking has cause the tail pipe to rupture and now I need a new flex tube. dayum! $192.00 from bobcat. I was able to dig thru my box of refrigeration parts and found a coupler and it was a perfect snug fit for the inside diameter of the flex pipe. this and a muffler clamp should hold til I return with the new one.Do change the outer hub oil. I'm not sure if you have to remove the sprocket to gain access to the oil plug on a t190. Anyway, I highly doubt that changing the hub oil will help with your problem. All the oil does is lubricate the outer bearing in the drive motor. Without the oil, the motor will destroy itself. I would be looking at the shock absorbers of the steering linkage.
Good news to report..... Upon my arrival to make a possible track change I opened the engine compartment door and while looking around for any leaks or possible hazards I notice a large rubber donut looking object laying next to the battery. I realized it was an engine mount for the left rear of the machine. I used a pry bar to put it back into position and since the movement was so much it broke the flex tube that attaches to the muffler ( ouch! bob cat $192.00). I was going to go ahead and replace all 4 mounts until I found out that they were $75 per set. so we only replaced the missing one. once all parts were assembled and on the machine we fired it up and voila! drives like a Cadillac. I cannot believe no one else has had this problem. I have searched high and low for the same symptoms as my own and could not find any. Has anyone else had a bolt break for the engine mount or simply fall out? This will hopefully help someone in the future who may have these symptoms of severe bucking, jerking and surging at any speed while all other functions are working. thanks to those who offered help with me on this nightmare.I adjusted the pintal arms twice in the same day and I was able to get it in neutral. so definitely not any play there, also that part tends to be one where if I'm trying to go slow and easy while doing fork lift operations the machine will jerk and if you just go forward with both sticks the jerkiness will stop. this problem is much worse and dose not stop ever. The bucking is so severe that it has a pulsing action that seems to push the sticks backwards and forwards no matter how hard I hold them. to make it stop I simply just let go. all other hydro functions work perfectly. this action just started all of the sudden and recently after I added a mix of fluid AW32 to the reservoir. Also the outer hub lube did not help, nor did the hydro filter change, or case drain filters. Non the less it was time for this PM anyway. back to square one. the severe shaking has cause the tail pipe to rupture and now I need a new flex tube. dayum! $192.00 from bobcat. I was able to dig thru my box of refrigeration parts and found a coupler and it was a perfect snug fit for the inside diameter of the flex pipe. this and a muffler clamp should hold til I return with the new one.
Glad you seem to have worked it out.Good news to report..... Upon my arrival to make a possible track change I opened the engine compartment door and while looking around for any leaks or possible hazards I notice a large rubber donut looking object laying next to the battery. I realized it was an engine mount for the left rear of the machine. I used a pry bar to put it back into position and since the movement was so much it broke the flex tube that attaches to the muffler ( ouch! bob cat $192.00). I was going to go ahead and replace all 4 mounts until I found out that they were $75 per set. so we only replaced the missing one. once all parts were assembled and on the machine we fired it up and voila! drives like a Cadillac. I cannot believe no one else has had this problem. I have searched high and low for the same symptoms as my own and could not find any. Has anyone else had a bolt break for the engine mount or simply fall out? This will hopefully help someone in the future who may have these symptoms of severe bucking, jerking and surging at any speed while all other functions are working. thanks to those who offered help with me on this nightmare.
I have found engine mounting bolts that have rattled loose before.