A little heat would help also.The way i do it is while still in the machine using 2 bottle jacks, one was 12 tonne the other was 2.2 pushing the hub with the bolt loose. Hit the back of the hub with a copper hammer, don't tap it HIT it, a few whacks and it should pop free. Keep the bolt on though, those suckers can really move when they come free and do some damage to you or someone near by.
The only other way s to find someone with a 50 tonne press, that should get it to separate.
I have always used a sledge hammer hitting on the back side of the hub. The little guys in the shop use a bottle jack and torch, apply pressure with the jack and then add heat. Leave and come back later, as the axle cools the hub pops loose. This takes too long, I work flat rate. Make sure you seat that taper when you put everything back together. If you don't get the taper seated the hub WILL come off and trash the hub and axle.A little heat would help also.
I never needed to use heat, just pump the jacks up and strike the back with a copper hammer. Ensure the bolt is still in place to prevent it skating across the shop or landing on your foot! been there done that one....I have always used a sledge hammer hitting on the back side of the hub. The little guys in the shop use a bottle jack and torch, apply pressure with the jack and then add heat. Leave and come back later, as the axle cools the hub pops loose. This takes too long, I work flat rate. Make sure you seat that taper when you put everything back together. If you don't get the taper seated the hub WILL come off and trash the hub and axle.
I use a mechanical puller on the ones that won't hammer off , the lug studs threads happen to be the same thread size as one of my pullers legs , I took two lug nuts and welded them together , screwed the nut onto 2 of the hub lugs and onto the puller leg , also have an extra hub bolt with a center mark to hold the puller push shaft from slipping off , a little tention and hit it with a hammer and they will will knock off 90 % of the time , every now and then I have have to use heatI never needed to use heat, just pump the jacks up and strike the back with a copper hammer. Ensure the bolt is still in place to prevent it skating across the shop or landing on your foot! been there done that one....
How do you seat your tapers? i wiped the grease/oil off and hit it with a copper hammer then hauled on it with a bar and socket to get it super tight, even used loctite on the threads.
When we put hubs back on we torque the bolt (600 for singles 200 for triples), then smack then bolt head with a hammer, and retorque. Repeat this until the bolt doesn't turn at full torque. I've seen a couple come off but never one that I put on.I use a mechanical puller on the ones that won't hammer off , the lug studs threads happen to be the same thread size as one of my pullers legs , I took two lug nuts and welded them together , screwed the nut onto 2 of the hub lugs and onto the puller leg , also have an extra hub bolt with a center mark to hold the puller push shaft from slipping off , a little tention and hit it with a hammer and they will will knock off 90 % of the time , every now and then I have have to use heat
Wow, i have nothing that would read 600!!! all i can do is haul on them with a pipe...When we put hubs back on we torque the bolt (600 for singles 200 for triples), then smack then bolt head with a hammer, and retorque. Repeat this until the bolt doesn't turn at full torque. I've seen a couple come off but never one that I put on.
The book says 600, we have a big torque wrench in the shop. And when I get into one of these at the house I borrow the one from the shop.Wow, i have nothing that would read 600!!! all i can do is haul on them with a pipe...
I'll need to keep an eye out for a cheap one, i'm sure a new one would be a little expensive....The book says 600, we have a big torque wrench in the shop. And when I get into one of these at the house I borrow the one from the shop.