A 743 in pieces

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Seano

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Jul 2, 2008
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You want to see the craziest thing about a 743? Watch what this guy does with his machine. Wait until the very end, he pulls off a stunt I've never seen before. wow http://www.skidloader.org/unbelievable.aspx
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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I have just found this forum and really appreciate all the info. I recently bought a 743 and have fixed most of the problems. I replaced the motor seal to stop hydo oil from getting into the chain case and rebuilt the tilt hydrolic cylinder. Both jobs made easier by info found here. I now have a question about the chains and sprockets. When looking into the chain case I noticed that the sprockets were not rounded on the top of the teeth. They are more pointed than round. Should I consider replacing them or is this normal and acceptable wear? Also I see a little play in the chains. How tight should they be? And finally am I in any danger of blowing out my chain case? Some of the forum talk about massive damage to the chain case and components which I surely want to avoid. Thanks for any insight..
 
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Tazza

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I have just found this forum and really appreciate all the info. I recently bought a 743 and have fixed most of the problems. I replaced the motor seal to stop hydo oil from getting into the chain case and rebuilt the tilt hydrolic cylinder. Both jobs made easier by info found here. I now have a question about the chains and sprockets. When looking into the chain case I noticed that the sprockets were not rounded on the top of the teeth. They are more pointed than round. Should I consider replacing them or is this normal and acceptable wear? Also I see a little play in the chains. How tight should they be? And finally am I in any danger of blowing out my chain case? Some of the forum talk about massive damage to the chain case and components which I surely want to avoid. Thanks for any insight..
Its normal to have a little slack in the chains, there should be the same amount for front and back on each side. The teeth do have points, they are not round like you may think. They will get sharp burs on the sides over time so be careful feeling the teeth with your hands, been caught a few times when re-installing them.....
The chain case is pretty tough, i can't see how you can blow it out unless you let it run low on oil. The best test to ensure your bearings are good is to jack it up then grab hold of the wheel and see if it moves in and out. You want to know if there is any play in the bearings, if you can feel or hear it clunking around you should consider changing the bearings and seals. The ideal way is to use a dial gauge, i think the limit was 0.005"
Any other questions just yell.
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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Its normal to have a little slack in the chains, there should be the same amount for front and back on each side. The teeth do have points, they are not round like you may think. They will get sharp burs on the sides over time so be careful feeling the teeth with your hands, been caught a few times when re-installing them.....
The chain case is pretty tough, i can't see how you can blow it out unless you let it run low on oil. The best test to ensure your bearings are good is to jack it up then grab hold of the wheel and see if it moves in and out. You want to know if there is any play in the bearings, if you can feel or hear it clunking around you should consider changing the bearings and seals. The ideal way is to use a dial gauge, i think the limit was 0.005"
Any other questions just yell.
Thanks for your quick reply. I will jack it up and check for any wheel bearing play. If I don't find any, I will relax and put my 743 to work... Thanks...
 

743Boy

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Sep 19, 2007
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Hi Tazza, Can you re-post these pictures? I am in the process of rebuilding a 743B and I would love to see your work. Thanks Much!
 
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Tazza

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Hi Tazza, Can you re-post these pictures? I am in the process of rebuilding a 743B and I would love to see your work. Thanks Much!
743Boy - tell me exactly what piccies you are after and i'll dig them and e-mail them to you "taz38sup at yahoo.com.au" at = @ naturally.
 

Skiddy

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Feb 14, 2009
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743Boy - tell me exactly what piccies you are after and i'll dig them and e-mail them to you "taz38sup at yahoo.com.au" at = @ naturally.
Tazzi can you send me some pics of the machine when it's done. my machine is stripped to the bare bone right now. all parts are being blasted as I go. I am going to replace all of the hoses as I reassemble now that I found a very reasonable place to buy them. WWW.DISCOUNTHYDRAULICS.COM I wish you were close we would have a pump/ wheelmotor rebuilding party. I would supply the adult beverages.
 
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Tazza

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Tazzi can you send me some pics of the machine when it's done. my machine is stripped to the bare bone right now. all parts are being blasted as I go. I am going to replace all of the hoses as I reassemble now that I found a very reasonable place to buy them. WWW.DISCOUNTHYDRAULICS.COM I wish you were close we would have a pump/ wheelmotor rebuilding party. I would supply the adult beverages.
LOL sure, send me an e-mail and i'll hook you up :)
My dad actually has ahose crimper at work, so get hoses even cheaper hehe
I keep the ends too, make plugs out of them!
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
Messages
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I have a problem that I need help with. I had previously posted that I replaced the hydro motor seal on my 743 to stop hydro oil from getting into the chain case. Well it didn't work. I just removed my chain case oil plug and got about 4 quarts of overflow oil. I checked my hydro oil and it is at leat 4 quarts low. With the drive motor removed I see a seal inside the opening where the short drive shaft comes thru. I also find an O ring which fits the outer portion around the mounting flange. I assume that the seal inside the round opening of the motor where the drive shaft passes thru is the culprit. It is a round inside seal which looks to be a couple of inches in diameter. Am I on the right track? Any help appreciated.. Thanks, Danny Matthews [email protected]
 
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Tazza

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I have a problem that I need help with. I had previously posted that I replaced the hydro motor seal on my 743 to stop hydro oil from getting into the chain case. Well it didn't work. I just removed my chain case oil plug and got about 4 quarts of overflow oil. I checked my hydro oil and it is at leat 4 quarts low. With the drive motor removed I see a seal inside the opening where the short drive shaft comes thru. I also find an O ring which fits the outer portion around the mounting flange. I assume that the seal inside the round opening of the motor where the drive shaft passes thru is the culprit. It is a round inside seal which looks to be a couple of inches in diameter. Am I on the right track? Any help appreciated.. Thanks, Danny Matthews [email protected]
Yes, the O ring on the inside is the problem. The one on the outside just seals the motor against the chain case. Pick the old O ring out where the shaft comes through, oil it up before you push it back in place though. That should fix your problem.
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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I'm not sure if I am posting this in the right place. If not , please forgive.. I am putting a seal kit in my 743 drive motor. When I disassembled it, I found about 8 round cam like inserts which are about an inch or so long and about a quarter of an inch or so in diameter. They have a dimple on one end. I noticed that all but two were inserted with the dimples pointing in the one direction. The other two were inserted with the dimples pointing in the opposite direction. Does it matter which direction they are inserted. Should they all be inserted with the dimples pointing in the same direction. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Danny Matthews
 
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Tazza

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I'm not sure if I am posting this in the right place. If not , please forgive.. I am putting a seal kit in my 743 drive motor. When I disassembled it, I found about 8 round cam like inserts which are about an inch or so long and about a quarter of an inch or so in diameter. They have a dimple on one end. I noticed that all but two were inserted with the dimples pointing in the one direction. The other two were inserted with the dimples pointing in the opposite direction. Does it matter which direction they are inserted. Should they all be inserted with the dimples pointing in the same direction. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Danny Matthews
They should go back in the exact same way they came out. I don't think the dimples matter its the wear they will have now that matters. I use an egg container when working on drive motors, i pill the rollers out and put them in the same way they come out remembering what one starts where, usually a case drain hole then work clockwise. Pull them out and keep them in the same location and same way up.
They will have a few marks on them and the housing they run in too, its best that they stay the same so you have minimal leakage as they have worn in. Use lots of oil when re-assembling it too.
Any problems just yell, i have done a few drive motors.
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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They should go back in the exact same way they came out. I don't think the dimples matter its the wear they will have now that matters. I use an egg container when working on drive motors, i pill the rollers out and put them in the same way they come out remembering what one starts where, usually a case drain hole then work clockwise. Pull them out and keep them in the same location and same way up.
They will have a few marks on them and the housing they run in too, its best that they stay the same so you have minimal leakage as they have worn in. Use lots of oil when re-assembling it too.
Any problems just yell, i have done a few drive motors.
Tazza .. Thanks for your help on this and past post. I know sharing your knowledge on this forum takes a lot of your time. I for one appreciate it and just wanted to say thanks.. Danny Matthews
 
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Tazza

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Tazza .. Thanks for your help on this and past post. I know sharing your knowledge on this forum takes a lot of your time. I for one appreciate it and just wanted to say thanks.. Danny Matthews
Its not a problem, i have learnt quite a lot from the forum too!
I don't spend as much time around here as i should, but i make time when i can :)
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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I want to thank Tazza for his expertise and great attitude as he has helped me repeatedly with several repairs on my 743. For the past three days I have run my repaired 743 8 to 10 hours a day. It worked great and surprised me with how versatile and tough it is ( my first skidsteer). Thank you TAZA... Danny Matthews
 
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Tazza

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I want to thank Tazza for his expertise and great attitude as he has helped me repeatedly with several repairs on my 743. For the past three days I have run my repaired 743 8 to 10 hours a day. It worked great and surprised me with how versatile and tough it is ( my first skidsteer). Thank you TAZA... Danny Matthews
Not an issue! thats why i'm paid the big bucks! *cough* i'm still waiting on my cheque :)
Glad things worked! the 743 is an excellent machine.
 

dannym

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Nov 17, 2008
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Not an issue! thats why i'm paid the big bucks! *cough* i'm still waiting on my cheque :)
Glad things worked! the 743 is an excellent machine.
Tazza, This is my second attempt to post this one. My 743 is working great but I have developed a leak at the control valve. I have a seal kit to repair it with. I spent four hours yesterday trying to get the spool assembly off the machine. I am having problems getting to the lower hoses. My questions are: 1) What is the best way to get this assembly off the machine? 2) Should I remove the drive motor hoses and other components in front of the valve? 3) Should I get to the back hoses from inside the engine compartment? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Danny Matthews
 
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Tazza

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Tazza, This is my second attempt to post this one. My 743 is working great but I have developed a leak at the control valve. I have a seal kit to repair it with. I spent four hours yesterday trying to get the spool assembly off the machine. I am having problems getting to the lower hoses. My questions are: 1) What is the best way to get this assembly off the machine? 2) Should I remove the drive motor hoses and other components in front of the valve? 3) Should I get to the back hoses from inside the engine compartment? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Danny Matthews
The tube lines are murder to get off the control block. When i did mine, the engine was out, you could then remove the entire line to gain access. The bottom hose, you simply can't access when the motor is in, even when its out its next to impossible to get off with the tube lines in the way. When you pull the control block, ensure you replace this hose, with the bend, they crack and leak and its a lot of work to remove the control block again.
The absolute best way, is to remove the lines as you go with the engine out, but this is totally your choice.
I don't remember the drive motor hoses being in the way, but it was a long time ago that i did it. The problem is once removed you still have them attached to the pump, removing them from the pump is a HUGE job, things are in the way. Its easier to remove the entire pump! remove the hoses at the motors, so the 4 large hoses are still connected and remove the others at the pump. Lift the whole thing out.
It can be a big job, but if you do that, you can clean the machine well and even change the chain case oil while there.
All goes on how far you want to go.
 

Garauld

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Mar 14, 2009
Messages
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The tube lines are murder to get off the control block. When i did mine, the engine was out, you could then remove the entire line to gain access. The bottom hose, you simply can't access when the motor is in, even when its out its next to impossible to get off with the tube lines in the way. When you pull the control block, ensure you replace this hose, with the bend, they crack and leak and its a lot of work to remove the control block again.
The absolute best way, is to remove the lines as you go with the engine out, but this is totally your choice.
I don't remember the drive motor hoses being in the way, but it was a long time ago that i did it. The problem is once removed you still have them attached to the pump, removing them from the pump is a HUGE job, things are in the way. Its easier to remove the entire pump! remove the hoses at the motors, so the 4 large hoses are still connected and remove the others at the pump. Lift the whole thing out.
It can be a big job, but if you do that, you can clean the machine well and even change the chain case oil while there.
All goes on how far you want to go.
I have just been down that road and replaced the two problem hoses. You have to remove the engine - actually the easiest part of the project if you have a decent hoist - and don't use one of those cheapy asian come-alongs... Drain the hydraulics best you can, but plan on getting real oily. Take a couple good pics of the tubing layout and start removing them. The drive motor hoses aren't in the way. Disconnect the linkage and pull the block out the rear.
 

renopker

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May 2, 2009
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225
I have just been down that road and replaced the two problem hoses. You have to remove the engine - actually the easiest part of the project if you have a decent hoist - and don't use one of those cheapy asian come-alongs... Drain the hydraulics best you can, but plan on getting real oily. Take a couple good pics of the tubing layout and start removing them. The drive motor hoses aren't in the way. Disconnect the linkage and pull the block out the rear.
I would agree take the motor out and the blower housing and turn the pressure washer loose.
 
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