I have a 01 773g that has been acting up latley. It will not give me any codes, It runs fine for 10-15 mins then starts acting up and just states " input" on the screen. It seems to be doing most it when I make a jerky movement or turn or lower the bucket down and let it slam. It will start right back up and then do the same thing. After a few times of startng and it shutting down it makes a countous beep will not start or stop beeping even with the key removed. It was working fine up until I painted the machine. I did not sandblast it i only "scuffed it up" and did not paint any of the engine compartment, under the cab, etc. When it is numming normally it says no codes. It really has me confused thanks for your help. Jeff
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Websterspower
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"input" in the display usually means that one of the panels is not operating correctly if I am not mistaken. Did you remove them when you painted the machine? could be a loose connection.... But I would suspect the one of the panels are bad. I believe "input" refers to the panel with the hour meter.
Thanks Webster, I didn't remove them at all while painting the machine, I kinda did a quick paint job to make it look good for winter . I have already after painting the machine, took off both panels and checked for corrosion/loose connections. I looked up in the manual that it means they are not communicating with each other or a bad ground. I will go thru those connections better tomorrow. I just have moved it back into the garage and got the code 06-18 for the first time "Engine Speed out of range". I am thinking it nay be a ground or something simple. The reason being is it will sit and idle fine, it is just when you start turning the machine or make a jerky movement it will shut down. The machine did have a fair bit of corrosion on the front due to loading salt and working in the elements but was working flawlessly until it was painted... Do you happen to know much a panel cost off the top of your head or if a used one can be used? Thanks
Websterspower
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Not sure about the used market, but I remember from the dealer they were 200-300ish for standard panels. If you have another machine with similar panels (any G-series I believe) you can swap them out to isolate the problem if there is one. Do you loose electric power when it shuts down or does the engine just turn off? Are all the Relays in tight and not sloshing around in place? Keep us posted with the progress
When it shuts down it has power and the engine just shuts off. Before the engine cuts off thou all the safeties engage and you come to a abrupt stop, then the engine shuts down but the dash/hour meter stay on stating input. Then I have to turn the key off and restart the engine. I have tried it with both the seat bar down and pressing "operate" button and pushing the traction lock override with the seat bar up to the same effect.
Websterspower
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OK, 90% sure you have a panel issue as I remember the machine I am referencing in my head did the same thing. Have you check for codes right after a shut down?
Found some broken wires on the spool lock solenoid.Then after running it around it gave me the fault code 1806 so hopefully this may correct this issue as it is only a 50 dollar part due in Tues or wensday.
I doubt very seriously that a stem coil will show a input code , input code means that the left panel , right panel and or controller are not communicating , I'd give it a 90% chance it is a wiring issue , did you check the wirng harness between the two panels and the controller for damaged wires --------- you could get someone elses machine next to yours and swop out the panels one at a time and see if that solves the problem , but I am thinking wiring
Yes Fishfiles i checked all the connections up in the controller area, remover both controls looked at all the connectors on both the panels and wires which were clean didn't see any obvious signs of rubbing of wires or pinching etc.. If it were a or both panels though wouldn't it do it as soon as it were started or a bit after? The other day it was idling and i slammed the back door on it and it shut down....After I pulled the battery cleaned all the wires, connections, grounds. Made sure everything was tight. Also it is not always giving the code input. it gives 06-18 and 18-06.engine speed out of range and spool lock, never at the same time.. Is there any way to bypass the spool lock solenoid wiring as it is broken off the top too short to solder and the plunger tube is in-op. The part will be in tomorrow though but if it is something you guys don't think is causing the problem i would rather not throw money at a snow machine thanks
I am not a fan of by passing the safety systems , but there are a few ways to by pass the spool lock solinoids , one way is to remove the solinoid and take a grinder and cut the plunger which sticks out the solinoid off flush and screw it back in , it will no longer engage the spools ----- if you want to save the solinoids then you can go to a hydraulic supply house and get some plugs with the same straight pipe /o ring seal ( also called boss/o ring ) I think it's 3/8's ( #6) -----you can run it with out a plug in it for a short period as no oil will leak out , but the plug keeps the dirt and water from getting into the housing ----------------- you said that when you slammed the door it shut down , that tells me there is a shorted wire or connection problem some where ------------- it can be very hard to locate a short or broken wire , here are a few wiring problems I have seen on that type of machine ----does your machine have a deluxe roof insulation package and have the plastic console over your left shoulder which is for the a/c controls , even if you don't have a/c then sometimes the panel is there on machines , the screws that hold that panel in are too long and very pointy and pierce the wiring harness which runs behind it , I seen where this is very hard to see as the screw leaves a very small hole through the braided covering of the wiring harness but dames the wiring inside the braid -------------another place to look at , which is pretty hard is where the harness goes under the hydrostat , there is a bolt that goes from the bracket under the pump to the pump which always falls out and lets the pump jump around and damages the harness -------another spot is the right controll lever where all the wires from the right side aux controller come out the tube , those wire will hit the bar that crosses the chain case to the controll valve , that right controll head ties into the RPM sensor -------where ever there is a water tight plug in , try pushing each wire into the plug , sometimes the wiring end will slip out the connector and get a bad connection -------- try running the machine with the cab and boom up and locked off and grabbing , pulling and twisting the wiring harness every place you can and see if it will shut down --------------- there comes a time when you might just bring it into a dealer and pay the price
turns out it is the computer. 800 and they have to updater it. It this BS or accurate? Can i swap one from a use machine available fine one on eBay.. Has anyone had to swap out the computer with a used or a borrowed one (773) same machine or will it fry the computer? what tels me it is the computer is that barely tap it. Taking a the kid that runs it he said it would shut down about every now and then when he slammed the boom arm down,and would shut down sometime giving a inpt code. its got appro2500hr just got the 1000 hr service or 2000 just painted itpossible sale or trade
The fact that it shuts down when hit, leads me to believe its a loose connection somewhere.... I would start by checking grounds and connectors first, especially the fuse box, the terminals seem to always corrode here first. I'd hate for you to get a new computer and find its exactly the same....
That is right about needing updating, the hours need to be loaded, functions must be enabled, i think its a bit silly that they aren't by default fully ready to operate all functions, even if they are not there, but thats how it is.
you can stick another controller (computer) from another machine and it will work but it will show the hours of the machine you took it out of and if scanned the serial number of the machine it came out of , you can take a new one out the box and not get it programmed and it will work on your machine it will start the hours at 0 and no serial number will be in it , on newer machines it is nessecary to have the controller programmed as there are functions that are turned off and on thru the lap top , but on your machine you should not have any problem -------I have to agree with Tazza for the most part if hitting or shaking the machine causes it to drop out then it seems it must be a wiring issue BUT it is possible the loose connection is on the board inside the controller
skidsteer.ca
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I have a spare G series controller that I bought new when I was having intermittant temp guage problems. I used it around 300 hours until I ruled the problem to not be the controler and put the original back in
It is programed for bucket positioning option,
It was a newer style (smaller) then my 2000 773g and I had to drill one more bolt hole higher up in the frame to install it.
Not sure I should sell it though as I have 2 other G series loaders.
Definitely no problem swapping or borrowing another one to test for problem anyway.
Ken
I had emailed you ken hopefully we can work out a deal, i got some attachments for sale or trade..
O by the may days of trouble shooting its the controller. 667806 pn inside it is is all corroded due to salt. Just painted it though looks great ill get some pics up.
is your controller the 2 plug or the 4 plug controller , I believe the 773 came two different ways depending on serial number break
