773 10v control actuator

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wolfinaz

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Jan 20, 2008
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7
I have a problem with reverse of flow to release grapple and have removed the servo.Does anyone know what the ohms test should be .And also is there a place to get them besides bobcat dealer.I am reading 4 ohm on meter check for elec control. Thanks
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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You took the coil off the aux hyd valve stem? (located on the main hyd control valve)
4 ohms sound right. If its sticking on its likely the stem itself. Try swapping the stems side to side and see if the problem moves. If it does try swapping the cpoils on the stems and see if its in the electrical.
Also if you remove the coil from the stem, do Not over tighen the nut to hold it on, or your will distort the stem, finger tight is good enough.
Ken
 
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wolfinaz

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
7
You took the coil off the aux hyd valve stem? (located on the main hyd control valve)
4 ohms sound right. If its sticking on its likely the stem itself. Try swapping the stems side to side and see if the problem moves. If it does try swapping the cpoils on the stems and see if its in the electrical.
Also if you remove the coil from the stem, do Not over tighen the nut to hold it on, or your will distort the stem, finger tight is good enough.
Ken
I tried swaping coils and found one of the stems was bent bad.I guess it came that way as I have never had it off.I am second owner .Who knows .Also tried running variable voltage all the way to 10v and got know kick in either vaulve .The teck at bobcat said you could feel the click if they were working.Also said 9 ohms was what they should read. Thanks for any feedback. Gene
 

skidsteer.ca

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I tried swaping coils and found one of the stems was bent bad.I guess it came that way as I have never had it off.I am second owner .Who knows .Also tried running variable voltage all the way to 10v and got know kick in either vaulve .The teck at bobcat said you could feel the click if they were working.Also said 9 ohms was what they should read. Thanks for any feedback. Gene
If the stem is noticable bent it is toast for sure. There not cheap either, @ $100 Even a minor deflection can jamb the needle inside the stem, open, shut or anywhere in between.
Be sure you don't drop bang or anything else them, they are that fragile.
If the magnetic coils are working, you can feel the field pulling them onto the stem (remove nut carefully first) slide them 1/2 off and activate the switch, the coil will snap itself back on.
Your ohms are @ 1/2 of what he said it calls for, not sure if these coils can short out or not.
I would have though they would show a open circuit, or the correct ohms. Lower ohms will pull more amps through the circuit, but if you not blowing fuses it may not matter. Do both the coils shows 4 ohms or is one showing @ 9 ?
You aux hydraulics work one way but not the other? not at all? or are they "stuck on"?\
Ken
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,844
If the stem is noticable bent it is toast for sure. There not cheap either, @ $100 Even a minor deflection can jamb the needle inside the stem, open, shut or anywhere in between.
Be sure you don't drop bang or anything else them, they are that fragile.
If the magnetic coils are working, you can feel the field pulling them onto the stem (remove nut carefully first) slide them 1/2 off and activate the switch, the coil will snap itself back on.
Your ohms are @ 1/2 of what he said it calls for, not sure if these coils can short out or not.
I would have though they would show a open circuit, or the correct ohms. Lower ohms will pull more amps through the circuit, but if you not blowing fuses it may not matter. Do both the coils shows 4 ohms or is one showing @ 9 ?
You aux hydraulics work one way but not the other? not at all? or are they "stuck on"?\
Ken
Don't rely on the resistance to be exactly the same on the coils. It will be different depending on if your meter uses ac or dc to check for resistance. Getting a *true* reading on a coil is not as simple as it sounds because being a coil it reacts differently than a standard resistor or straight length of wire does. A lot of things i don't full understand come into play like reactance, capacitance plus more. Just use these figures as a guide. If there is low resistance you should be pretty well rite, if its high its probably burnt out.
 
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wolfinaz

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
7
Don't rely on the resistance to be exactly the same on the coils. It will be different depending on if your meter uses ac or dc to check for resistance. Getting a *true* reading on a coil is not as simple as it sounds because being a coil it reacts differently than a standard resistor or straight length of wire does. A lot of things i don't full understand come into play like reactance, capacitance plus more. Just use these figures as a guide. If there is low resistance you should be pretty well rite, if its high its probably burnt out.
I checked the coils and found out they are reading proper at 3.5 ohms.I got the dealer to check a new one.I replaced one of the stems and still have the hydraulics only close the grapple.I reversed the hose couplers and thus reversec flow through the unit and then it only opens.How do you test the hand control switch to see if it is bad?I unpluged the coil and did an ohm test to the hand switch and found it to show continuity.Is it suppose to all the time or just when switch is activated? Thanks Gene
 
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wolfinaz

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
7
If the stem is noticable bent it is toast for sure. There not cheap either, @ $100 Even a minor deflection can jamb the needle inside the stem, open, shut or anywhere in between.
Be sure you don't drop bang or anything else them, they are that fragile.
If the magnetic coils are working, you can feel the field pulling them onto the stem (remove nut carefully first) slide them 1/2 off and activate the switch, the coil will snap itself back on.
Your ohms are @ 1/2 of what he said it calls for, not sure if these coils can short out or not.
I would have though they would show a open circuit, or the correct ohms. Lower ohms will pull more amps through the circuit, but if you not blowing fuses it may not matter. Do both the coils shows 4 ohms or is one showing @ 9 ?
You aux hydraulics work one way but not the other? not at all? or are they "stuck on"?\
Ken
I checked and ohms ar 3.5 on both units and a new one is the same so they are fine. The hydraulics only close the grapple or only open it if houses are swaped.The right trigger activates the flow as it works my auger and mower fine.It just won't reverse to flow to open grapple arms. Gene
 

140mower

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Jun 4, 2006
Messages
87
I checked and ohms ar 3.5 on both units and a new one is the same so they are fine. The hydraulics only close the grapple or only open it if houses are swaped.The right trigger activates the flow as it works my auger and mower fine.It just won't reverse to flow to open grapple arms. Gene
The trigger on the right controller won't run a grapple in both directions, for that you need to use the thumb rocker and only press the aux. hydraulics once to activate. Hopefully the problem will be that simple.
Good luck,
Don
 
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wolfinaz

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
7
The trigger on the right controller won't run a grapple in both directions, for that you need to use the thumb rocker and only press the aux. hydraulics once to activate. Hopefully the problem will be that simple.
Good luck,
Don
I tried the thumb switch that is what the prob is it won't work.Tryig to trace down cause of malfunction.
 

Tazza

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I tried the thumb switch that is what the prob is it won't work.Tryig to trace down cause of malfunction.
I would start by hooking up a meter at the coil and operate the thumb switch, see if the coil is getting power, if its not it could be the switch or the control box that controls the aux hydraulics.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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I would start by hooking up a meter at the coil and operate the thumb switch, see if the coil is getting power, if its not it could be the switch or the control box that controls the aux hydraulics.
Front trigger is not for operating hyd cylinders, it locks the flow on in the same direction as holding the thumb switch to the right. If you reverse your coils or flip flop the wires coming to the coil and the grapple opens, at least you know the valve/hyd portion is working fine.
That where I'm at with mine, flow sticks on when I use the thumb switch to the right, unless I slow the rpm some. I'm starting to think its in the thumb switch to. Let me know if you learn anything about testing these. I need to get back and work on mine to.
Ken
 
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wolfinaz

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Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
7
Front trigger is not for operating hyd cylinders, it locks the flow on in the same direction as holding the thumb switch to the right. If you reverse your coils or flip flop the wires coming to the coil and the grapple opens, at least you know the valve/hyd portion is working fine.
That where I'm at with mine, flow sticks on when I use the thumb switch to the right, unless I slow the rpm some. I'm starting to think its in the thumb switch to. Let me know if you learn anything about testing these. I need to get back and work on mine to.
Ken
Hi I found out what was wrong .It was the swithch .It was replaced and ended up working great.I took it the dealer and he put it on his computer and identified problem. Thanks , Gene
 
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