763 Traction Lock

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nobull1

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Jan 4, 2007
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I was moving a bunch of snow today for 4 or 5 hours. After I shut off for a couple of hours I went to start and the traction lock would not release. All the lights were on, on the BICS but nothing would release the brake (no noise) including traction over ride. I looked at the fuses and found a 25 amp that was blown and replaced it but to no avail. The fuse did not blow again by the way. In the end I removed the solenoid and clamped the round pin up and made a rubber gasket to keep the dirt out. It meant I was able to finish the job without delay. Still I have to fix this problem and wondering if anyone has a procedure for checking other than just buying a new solenoid.
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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I have hot wired the solenoid before, hook up the black wire to ground and feed +12v to the red and white wires one at a time. I can't remember what is the pull and which is the hold coils though. Naturally the pull coil should make it snap back and the hold coil should hold it there, which ever one gives inly a small spark hold that to +12v then touch the other to get it to pull back and let it go, it should stay in place. This is what i did with my 751 while trying to work out my wiring, it allowed me to move the machine around.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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I have hot wired the solenoid before, hook up the black wire to ground and feed +12v to the red and white wires one at a time. I can't remember what is the pull and which is the hold coils though. Naturally the pull coil should make it snap back and the hold coil should hold it there, which ever one gives inly a small spark hold that to +12v then touch the other to get it to pull back and let it go, it should stay in place. This is what i did with my 751 while trying to work out my wiring, it allowed me to move the machine around.
Hello Brian,
Seasons Greetings
Don't forget to try swapping your relays as one is for the brakes as well. They switch the hi amp current for the pull coil
Ken
 
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nobull1

nobull1

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Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
196
Hello Brian,
Seasons Greetings
Don't forget to try swapping your relays as one is for the brakes as well. They switch the hi amp current for the pull coil
Ken
Well we got at it today to see what we could do. The fuse I replaced did in fact blow and did a couple more times. We tried a new solenoid and still blew fuses. Then we tried a new relay to no avail. This was looking like a wiring problem with a lot of searching anticipated. I just happened to notice on the inside of the back door the fuse location diagram. What I realized was the fuse that was continually blowing was in fact a accessory fuse (for what I don't know). The fuse on top of the blown fuse appeared OK but was in fact defective. Once I replaced that fuse all was fine with the new solenoid. After looking at the old solenoid it was apparent it was cracked and slightly raised Bakelite on the top where the wires go in. My guess is after warming up the ice melted and ran down on top of the solenoid and grounded out the solenoid. So after a dozen tries it appears to be working fine...hopefully.
Good year to you Ken. Hope all is well in Northern Ontario. I have a couple new attachments we made to go with the new quick attach. Whenever the snow gets low enough I will post some pic's.
Tazza, good idea about direct power to the solenoid. I also found a couple of ohm numbers to check as well, one coil should be 10-11 ohms the other 0.4-0.5. Unfortunately my ohm meter doesn't have the decimal point after 0 so that didn't work. I also suspect the ground would have disappeared after the solenoid dried.
 
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