743b final drive parts

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antfarmer2

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well its too late now i orderd everything. the front chains look good i really see no need to replace them i understand the close loop is gunna be more difficult but its not impossible right?
Much harder but your ok you can I paid 78 bucks for a box will do one front and back but you really want to do them all at the same time or they will wear differant and they are not that far off from breaking they can look good but streached you will see when you match them up
 

antfarmer2

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Much harder but your ok you can I paid 78 bucks for a box will do one front and back but you really want to do them all at the same time or they will wear differant and they are not that far off from breaking they can look good but streached you will see when you match them up
Did you get the bearings with the axle seals?
 
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melcha187

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If you can cancel the chains I would
yeah i got the axle seal kit comes with bearings. ill see if i can cancel chain this morning i hear what your saying. front chains our 66 link back are 48 link so thats 228 links so im thinkin 20' of chain wiht 4 master links?
 

antfarmer2

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yeah i got the axle seal kit comes with bearings. ill see if i can cancel chain this morning i hear what your saying. front chains our 66 link back are 48 link so thats 228 links so im thinkin 20' of chain wiht 4 master links?
Yes your right I had it backward the front are the longer chains two boxes of 80HD will do it one box will do one front and one back with I think three or so links left over and four master links make sure they are HD too make sure you break the bolts loose inside first before you loosen the hub like Tazza said that will get the axle out too Tazz put holes in a piece of plate with a pipe welded to it bolted to the hub to loosen and tightin the bolts on the axle I used a t fence post with a pipe over it and weged it between the studs with two lug nuts tightend on eack stud used both of us just weged a wrench in the chain case to get mine loose I removed the chains then wedge the wrench put a chain on the case and gave it a little jerk with the hummer when you call bobcat find out if you have wear rings for the seals mine did and only from bobcat 20 apiece
 

antfarmer2

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Yes your right I had it backward the front are the longer chains two boxes of 80HD will do it one box will do one front and one back with I think three or so links left over and four master links make sure they are HD too make sure you break the bolts loose inside first before you loosen the hub like Tazza said that will get the axle out too Tazz put holes in a piece of plate with a pipe welded to it bolted to the hub to loosen and tightin the bolts on the axle I used a t fence post with a pipe over it and weged it between the studs with two lug nuts tightend on eack stud used both of us just weged a wrench in the chain case to get mine loose I removed the chains then wedge the wrench put a chain on the case and gave it a little jerk with the hummer when you call bobcat find out if you have wear rings for the seals mine did and only from bobcat 20 apiece
Hunt yourself up a porta-power with a small ram
 
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melcha187

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Hunt yourself up a porta-power with a small ram
alright so bobcat already sent chains out but they said i can return them. my buddy owns a hardware store so i had him order me a 20' length of 80HD chain with 4 master links the only thing im missing is the tool to cut the chain but im sure i can just use a grinder unless you have another way. so im going to replace all 4 chains. i ordered 4 axle seal kits which each kit consist of 1 - Axle Seal replaces Bobcat part number 6513277 2 - Bearings replace Bobcat part numbers 6689775, 6669050, 6519925 2 - Races replace Bobcat part number 6519926 i ordered a new rubber gasket seal that goes in between both access panels and im going to fill it with 15w-40 oil. all the sprockets, e- brake, and axle's look good. so after i do this i should have just about 100% undercarriage. is there anything i missed? also should i put a quick weld on master link or should I be alright. i should have everything in my mid next week so ill be putting it together by the end of next week. thanks for all your help so far. i had posted another subject a couple weeks ago about the blow by which it is what it is for now im just gunna keep my eye on oil if the motor blows i can always get a remanned or sumthing. we do auto dismantling and scrap metal recycling so the machine gets used everyday most of the day im never gunna have down time to pull motor and rebuild it
 

antfarmer2

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alright so bobcat already sent chains out but they said i can return them. my buddy owns a hardware store so i had him order me a 20' length of 80HD chain with 4 master links the only thing im missing is the tool to cut the chain but im sure i can just use a grinder unless you have another way. so im going to replace all 4 chains. i ordered 4 axle seal kits which each kit consist of 1 - Axle Seal replaces Bobcat part number 6513277 2 - Bearings replace Bobcat part numbers 6689775, 6669050, 6519925 2 - Races replace Bobcat part number 6519926 i ordered a new rubber gasket seal that goes in between both access panels and im going to fill it with 15w-40 oil. all the sprockets, e- brake, and axle's look good. so after i do this i should have just about 100% undercarriage. is there anything i missed? also should i put a quick weld on master link or should I be alright. i should have everything in my mid next week so ill be putting it together by the end of next week. thanks for all your help so far. i had posted another subject a couple weeks ago about the blow by which it is what it is for now im just gunna keep my eye on oil if the motor blows i can always get a remanned or sumthing. we do auto dismantling and scrap metal recycling so the machine gets used everyday most of the day im never gunna have down time to pull motor and rebuild it
You can grind off the pin but will need a chain brake can buy for under 30 bucks will save alot of cussing.........did you ask about the wear rings from bobcat..............and grease and check your ujoints and nothing needed a on the masters
 

antfarmer2

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You can grind off the pin but will need a chain brake can buy for under 30 bucks will save alot of cussing.........did you ask about the wear rings from bobcat..............and grease and check your ujoints and nothing needed a on the masters
You will need some blue locktight
 
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melcha187

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Oct 26, 2014
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You can grind off the pin but will need a chain brake can buy for under 30 bucks will save alot of cussing.........did you ask about the wear rings from bobcat..............and grease and check your ujoints and nothing needed a on the masters
what and where are the wear rings
 
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melcha187

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Oct 26, 2014
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You can grind off the pin but will need a chain brake can buy for under 30 bucks will save alot of cussing.........did you ask about the wear rings from bobcat..............and grease and check your ujoints and nothing needed a on the masters
ill ask my buddy if he can get my the chain brake also but do u know any website where i can get it from for that price
 
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melcha187

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Oct 26, 2014
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Ebay has them might be able to rent one if you are close you can use mine
im in boston mass so i cant borrow yours. the guy i have doing the work will figure it out and ill remind him to grease and check the ujoints from the engine to the pump and the wear rings. he does most of the work on my machines but i helped on this project
 

antfarmer2

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im in boston mass so i cant borrow yours. the guy i have doing the work will figure it out and ill remind him to grease and check the ujoints from the engine to the pump and the wear rings. he does most of the work on my machines but i helped on this project
He is going to love the rear inside races
 

Tazza

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He is going to love the rear inside races
I should have copied my reply... Just lost it all, so here is a basic run down.
With the innards out of the chain case, axles and sprockets gone, i found it was easier to re-install the sprockets with the chains made up as a loop and have the sprockets hang inside. Gravity holds them in place for you as you slide teh axle into place. If not, you have to hold it up and line the splines up. Do not seat the axles before installing the sprockets.
Use a good dob of grease on the ebarings to hold them in place too.
Be careful of the sprockets, they get very sharp edges from wear, like razor blades.
As yours is a B model, it has two piece axles. Remove the hub before you start, this will make seating the axle seals easier later. You may not want to fully dismantle the axle as a bottle jack behind the hub is great to pull them out of the axle tube. You can then fully remove the bolt and hub.
The wear sleeve, when the axles are out, check where the seal lips run. You can generally get by with sand papering this area. Worst case, you can seat the seal slightly deeper to run on a fresh part of the wear sleeve.
That is a very basic run down of what to do.
 

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