743b final drive parts

[melcha187]

my 743b rear right tire locked up sounds like chain was draggin in case. found easiest way to fix was to drop the whole case out of machine. got everything out tonight, 2morow morning im gunna open it up and investigate more. my qustion is does anyone know a good web site to buy final drive parts? im probely going to need final drive chain and couple axle seal kits i noticed i have 2 leaking. also if anyone has any good advice. there was no way to get into chain case without droping it out of machine.it wasnt as bad as i thought it would be but i learned alot from an older post it helped out big so any advice would be great and where i can buy final drive parts? thanks

 

[antfarmer2]

Loaderpartsource your in luck I just did this on a 743 yours will be a lot easyer if your bearings are ok

 

[antfarmer2]

Loaderpartsource your in luck I just did this on a 743 yours will be a lot easyer if your bearings are ok

Pick it up and pull the tires in and out to check the bearings......glade you learned but you could have changed the seals and chains with it toghter on the B alot easyer

 

[antfarmer2]

Pick it up and pull the tires in and out to check the bearings......glade you learned but you could have changed the seals and chains with it toghter on the B alot easyer

But since you have it out I would replace the bearings about fifty bucks a axle with the seal.......if yours has wear rings I would replace them too

 

[melcha187]

Pick it up and pull the tires in and out to check the bearings......glade you learned but you could have changed the seals and chains with it toghter on the B alot easyer

how could you do it together theres no way to get into the axle panels to access chains

 

[antfarmer2]

how could you do it together theres no way to get into the axle panels to access chains

Flip up the cab pull the steering levers take the chain case covers off........when you replace the chains do not measure count the links one 10' box will do front and back on one side with a few links left over use 80 HD chain figure out if you are going to do the bearings you do have a choice I did not but your already in there I can teach you some tricks

 

[antfarmer2]

Flip up the cab pull the steering levers take the chain case covers off........when you replace the chains do not measure count the links one 10' box will do front and back on one side with a few links left over use 80 HD chain figure out if you are going to do the bearings you do have a choice I did not but your already in there I can teach you some tricks

Do some home work and find out if yours has wear sleaves

 

[antfarmer2]

Do some home work and find out if yours has wear sleaves

One more thing don't botter looking for master links won't be any unless someone has been in there

 

[Tazza]

One more thing don't botter looking for master links won't be any unless someone has been in there

If you have already pulled the chain case, your job is going to be a lot easier.
Chain can be bought from a bearing supply shop. Get the chain and some master links.
As for the axle seals, your machine has 2 piece axles. Loosen the bolts on the axle hubs a few turns. Put a hydraulic bottle jack behind the hub and push, i acutally use two, one per side of the hub then hit the bolt head with a hammer to crack the taper seal. Remove and replace the axle seal. Repeat for all axles.
If you are in that deep, check the axles for end float. There should be none, but can be fixed if there is any. If you have a lathe it is an easy job. There are bolts and washers inside the chain case that you take a small skim off the internal to take away any play there is. You will see what parts run on the axle and what run on the sprocket. Take the material off the axle part to tighten it.

 

[melcha187]

If you have already pulled the chain case, your job is going to be a lot easier.
Chain can be bought from a bearing supply shop. Get the chain and some master links.
As for the axle seals, your machine has 2 piece axles. Loosen the bolts on the axle hubs a few turns. Put a hydraulic bottle jack behind the hub and push, i acutally use two, one per side of the hub then hit the bolt head with a hammer to crack the taper seal. Remove and replace the axle seal. Repeat for all axles.
If you are in that deep, check the axles for end float. There should be none, but can be fixed if there is any. If you have a lathe it is an easy job. There are bolts and washers inside the chain case that you take a small skim off the internal to take away any play there is. You will see what parts run on the axle and what run on the sprocket. Take the material off the axle part to tighten it.

everything looks pretty good internally. the rear right chain snapped and the rear left is about to snap there must of been some water in there so they rusted up the front 2 look good. i was gunna order chains off wengers.com but right when i was about to order them i saw they were used so ill just take your advice and go to bearing shop i use. it should be fine with master links? the rear right axle is leaking so since im replacing both chains i figured i would do axle seals and bearings im gunna oder the kit off loaderpartsource.com later down the line if i have to i figured i could do front axle seals the the machine all together

 

[melcha187]

everything looks pretty good internally. the rear right chain snapped and the rear left is about to snap there must of been some water in there so they rusted up the front 2 look good. i was gunna order chains off wengers.com but right when i was about to order them i saw they were used so ill just take your advice and go to bearing shop i use. it should be fine with master links? the rear right axle is leaking so since im replacing both chains i figured i would do axle seals and bearings im gunna oder the kit off loaderpartsource.com later down the line if i have to i figured i could do front axle seals the the machine all together

also what gear oil do you recommend ?

 

[antfarmer2]

also what gear oil do you recommend ?

I would do all chains at once if there is any end play do the bearings now while it's out with water I would do it anyways ......the oil most use what they use for the hydro I use 15-40 for all saves me from buying differant oils for engin,hydro and chain case but I live in Texas

 

[antfarmer2]

I would do all chains at once if there is any end play do the bearings now while it's out with water I would do it anyways ......the oil most use what they use for the hydro I use 15-40 for all saves me from buying differant oils for engin,hydro and chain case but I live in Texas

One box will not do both back chains so you will need two any ways so do all it will bite you latter master links are fine get 80HD chain

 

[antfarmer2]

One box will not do both back chains so you will need two any ways so do all it will bite you latter master links are fine get 80HD chain

If yours has the metal chain guids I would change to the plastic ones it will stop the wear on top of the gear box and will take up a bit more slop.........also very important on this cat is to grease and check the ujoints from the engine to the pump most don't do it and when they fail they can do major damage!!!!!!!

 

[Tazza]

If yours has the metal chain guids I would change to the plastic ones it will stop the wear on top of the gear box and will take up a bit more slop.........also very important on this cat is to grease and check the ujoints from the engine to the pump most don't do it and when they fail they can do major damage!!!!!!!

I run plain old engine oil, 20W50. Whatever is cheap will work in here. Others have flushed their hydraulic system and pumped the oil into the chain case. The oil from the hydro system is clean, so there is no harm not wasting it and using it in the chain case.
Before changing bearings, check for end play, if there isn't much and they feel smooth i'd leave them alone and take up the play with washer inside.

 

[melcha187]

I run plain old engine oil, 20W50. Whatever is cheap will work in here. Others have flushed their hydraulic system and pumped the oil into the chain case. The oil from the hydro system is clean, so there is no harm not wasting it and using it in the chain case.
Before changing bearings, check for end play, if there isn't much and they feel smooth i'd leave them alone and take up the play with washer inside.

i ended up biting the bullet and buying the two chains from bobcat at $148 per a chain and also got a rubber gasket for in between the access panels. i took your advice and orderd all 4 axle seal kits from loaderpartssource.com that way there its done and i know the undercarriage in machine is 100% i'm going to use 15w-40 i have a 55gallon drum of it i used for all my machines so i figured i would just use that. other then that i didnt notice any other problems inside im gunna try to load some pics on so anyone that has to do this can check it out

 

[antfarmer2]

i ended up biting the bullet and buying the two chains from bobcat at $148 per a chain and also got a rubber gasket for in between the access panels. i took your advice and orderd all 4 axle seal kits from loaderpartssource.com that way there its done and i know the undercarriage in machine is 100% i'm going to use 15w-40 i have a 55gallon drum of it i used for all my machines so i figured i would just use that. other then that i didnt notice any other problems inside im gunna try to load some pics on so anyone that has to do this can check it out

Not sure who's advice you took but you could have gotten all the chains for the price of one if they are a closed loop you will be cussing the seals are cheap and easy if you got the bearings like I said you will have to pull the axlels and fish them with the chain on not easy would have been better to buy the box with a master

 

[antfarmer2]

Not sure who's advice you took but you could have gotten all the chains for the price of one if they are a closed loop you will be cussing the seals are cheap and easy if you got the bearings like I said you will have to pull the axlels and fish them with the chain on not easy would have been better to buy the box with a master

If you want to talk I will give you my # to help

 

[melcha187]

Not sure who's advice you took but you could have gotten all the chains for the price of one if they are a closed loop you will be cussing the seals are cheap and easy if you got the bearings like I said you will have to pull the axlels and fish them with the chain on not easy would have been better to buy the box with a master

well its too late now i orderd everything. the front chains look good i really see no need to replace them i understand the close loop is gunna be more difficult but its not impossible right?