My 743 is leaking hyd fluid and based on the buildup of oil/dirt I am 99.9% sure it is coming from the pump input shaft seal. My eyeballs dont bend around corners so I am getting ready to pull the engine to do a full cleanup in the engine area and grease the u-joint (looks like about a 1 hour job to pull the engine so not a big deal). QUESTION: once the engine is out can I change the pump shaft seal without removing the pump? The added work and drooling mess to remove the pump is not something I look forward to. Pump is a Vickers TA1919V10R. Any special instructions to change the seal? Thanks
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Can you look with a mirror or stick you camera under there and take a picture, sometime try that in those tight spots.
Tazza may know the answer to your question or try Levi at www.loaderpartssource.com
He sell seals and pumps etc and is quite knowledgeable on various hydraulic components.
Ken
Tazza may know the answer to your question or try Levi at www.loaderpartssource.com
He sell seals and pumps etc and is quite knowledgeable on various hydraulic components.
Ken
I work at Loader Parts Source and we just had a 743 in to repair and we had a bad u-joint, so we pulled the motor and noticed that the shaft seal on the Drive pump, so to answer your question is yes you can replace it with it still being attached. You do have to be kind of quick about it because there is oil behind it and it will start to leak. The other thing is before you start it again you want to prime your pump to replace the lost oil. We do offer a seal kit for the TA1919's and the price is $56.12 That is a complete rebuild kit, which would not hurt to have around in case a gasket fails or something. www.loaderpartssource.com click bobcat and then on the left side click 743 and then its like the sixth item on the list.
OK the engine is out (easy job!) and I pressure-washed the muck off the back end of the pump. The shaft seal is definately leaking (1-2 drips in 10 minutes). Through the rear pump mount bracket I see a silver cast plate around the shaft, but nothing to "remove" at all now except a 9/16 bolt down the spline. Do I remove the bolt with an impact (assume normal right-hand thread?) and then does the spline pull off to reveal the seal? Thanks Re priming the pump can you describe the process. First time at this!
I was not the one who actually did the fix, but I am pretty sure that you have to take the splined coupler off the tapered shaft, and then its just a matter of a snap ring I believe. As far as priming, I am not sure what they had to do to prime it before they drove it. Sorry.
The seal is easy to change. Remove the engine, you can see the shaft, remove the bolt, attach a puller to the splined adaptor. Tighten it up then strike the screw with a hammer, a few hits and it should pop free. Its a taper and key fit. Its on tight, but when you crack the seal, it will fall right off.
Get your seal kit, have it ready as oil will flow out, not super fast but it will come out.
Remove the snap ring, drill a small hole in the seal, screw in a self tapping screw and use pliers to lever it out. Tap the new seal in slowly, when its past the shoulder on the housing i installed the snap ring and used it to tap it in slowly, working around. When the ring snapped into place you know its square, go all the way around till its fully seated.
One thing i didn't mention, but i'm sure you would do. Make sure its clean clean! get into it with degreaser and compressed air, get the area clean before you remove the seal, you don't want any dirt getting in there.
I pulled the spline and am just waiting for the seal to arrive (tomorrow?) before I go any further. Yeah I have the thing super clean and dont anticipate any issues. Thanks so much for the help. Is there a "prime the pump" process to follow on reassembly as mentioned by another poster, or do I just be careful to stick to low revs for a few minutes on first start until I burp any air out? I really cant see much air getting in as the new seal will be in place in seconds. Great forum, by the way. I see by previous lurks on the site you are the long-time guru and appreciate the knowledge. After many trouble-free years my little 743 has been one of the best toys I have ever bought - more work done per gallon of diesel than I ever thought possible. It owes me nothing! Rob.
No need to purge it, the oil flows pretty slow, if your tank is pretty full, it won't get any air in there anyway. If there is, it will self purge, don't worry about it.
I know what you mean about how good they are, my old 731 owed me nothing for all the work it saved me. After you own one, its hard to give it up.
I hope your seal replacement goes as smoothly as it did for me. From running to running it took me about three hours, that was with me fiddling with the U joints too.