732 Tilt cylinder

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

GILL

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
58
I've got this 732 with a leaky tilt cylinder. Oil coming from around the rod seal. I've purchased a rebuild kit and made a spanner wrench to get the cap off. The problem I'm having is getting the nut off the piston so I can remove it and the slid the cap off to replace the seals and O-rings. Has anyone had any experience getting this nut (which is beveled) off? It measures at 1.642" across the flats. Not a 1-5/8 really and a sloppy fit for a 1-11/16 socket. My Bobcat book tells a lot about it but not nearly enough to suit me especially about putting the seals in the cap. They call out a special tool for this. Is something like this really needed? Thanks in advance, Greg
 

flyerdan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
983
That is a nice odd size, somewhere close to 1 41/64" or 42mm. If it was me, I'd use a vice to hold the nut and turn the rod with a suitable bar through the end.
Play a bit of torch flame on the threads to loosen the locktite that was likely applied at the factory.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,829
That is a nice odd size, somewhere close to 1 41/64" or 42mm. If it was me, I'd use a vice to hold the nut and turn the rod with a suitable bar through the end.
Play a bit of torch flame on the threads to loosen the locktite that was likely applied at the factory.
There is no special tool needed, heat can be needed but also a longer breaker bar should crack it free. The threads are meant to have loctite on them, that is what will be making it hard for you. I generally need to put a bar through the eye of the rod to stop it lifting, sit it under a machine then use a socket/bar and a pipe to crack the nut. A helper can make the job so much easier.
Good luck
 
OP
OP
G

GILL

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
58
There is no special tool needed, heat can be needed but also a longer breaker bar should crack it free. The threads are meant to have loctite on them, that is what will be making it hard for you. I generally need to put a bar through the eye of the rod to stop it lifting, sit it under a machine then use a socket/bar and a pipe to crack the nut. A helper can make the job so much easier.
Good luck
Thanks to all for the advice. I managed to mess up my right ribcage when the socket slipped off and the breaker got me and then I dinged my elbow. Past experience tells me this will be sore for a while. The dealer is an hour away but an employee that lives local got me an estimate for them to repair it. I've decided to go that route. Greg
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,829
Thanks to all for the advice. I managed to mess up my right ribcage when the socket slipped off and the breaker got me and then I dinged my elbow. Past experience tells me this will be sore for a while. The dealer is an hour away but an employee that lives local got me an estimate for them to repair it. I've decided to go that route. Greg
OUCH i hope you feel better soon.
I know any bruises on ribs are nasty and take some time to not feel like being stabbed with a knife every time you breathe.
 

rjitreeman0909

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
54
Remount the rod end to the bobcat. That will keep the shaft from rotating when you apply torque to nut. Check to make sure there isn't a roll pin thru the nut rather than loctite. If there is, you may need to rotate nut slightly in the tighten direction to relieve the bind created by prior attempt to remove.
 
OP
OP
G

GILL

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
58
Remount the rod end to the bobcat. That will keep the shaft from rotating when you apply torque to nut. Check to make sure there isn't a roll pin thru the nut rather than loctite. If there is, you may need to rotate nut slightly in the tighten direction to relieve the bind created by prior attempt to remove.
Thanks for all the help suggestions. I had Bobcat repair it and I re-installed it last Saturday. Keeping the rod from turning was easy, I just put the bushing end in the vise. The nut is recessed and difficult to get ahold of with maybe 3/16 to 1/4' sticking out. It was cheaper to have them do it than for me to get a socket and grind it down in order to get a better grip on the nut. Anyway, it's fixed and not leaking. Greg
 
OP
OP
G

GILL

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
58
Thanks for all the help suggestions. I had Bobcat repair it and I re-installed it last Saturday. Keeping the rod from turning was easy, I just put the bushing end in the vise. The nut is recessed and difficult to get ahold of with maybe 3/16 to 1/4' sticking out. It was cheaper to have them do it than for me to get a socket and grind it down in order to get a better grip on the nut. Anyway, it's fixed and not leaking. Greg
I had the l/h lift cylinder start leaking badly a week or so ago. Getting it out was tricky since I don't think it had ever been removed before. I got it out and had Bobcat rebuild it. But now I have a problem getting the hyd hose and the steel line to go back together. They should go but the fittings don't want to thread back together. Can someone verify if they used JIC fittings on these machines? If the threads are damaged somehow in the female fitting,(the one on the steel supply line), how would one fix that? Thanks, Greg
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,829
I had the l/h lift cylinder start leaking badly a week or so ago. Getting it out was tricky since I don't think it had ever been removed before. I got it out and had Bobcat rebuild it. But now I have a problem getting the hyd hose and the steel line to go back together. They should go but the fittings don't want to thread back together. Can someone verify if they used JIC fittings on these machines? If the threads are damaged somehow in the female fitting,(the one on the steel supply line), how would one fix that? Thanks, Greg
They should be all JIC on that machine.
They can be easily cross threaded though, it doesn't take much to do it. Then you need to fiddle to get it on correctly.
 
OP
OP
G

GILL

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
58
They should be all JIC on that machine.
They can be easily cross threaded though, it doesn't take much to do it. Then you need to fiddle to get it on correctly.
Thanks Tazza, I've been tinkering with this thing off and on and I can narrow it down to some threads being boogered up on the male end of the hose at some point. I'm going to get a new hose made up so I have fresh threads to use. I came to this conclusion by being able to thread a new fitting on fairly easily. I think that will do it. Thanks again, Greg
 
Top