732 rough running, backfiring

[OldMachinist]

Could someone with the Ford engine take a look at the pulley on the end of the crank? My book says there is three marks to use when setting the timing. My pulley only has one saw cut on it and I'm questioning if it's even right. The cover for the timing chain has three marks and I believe they are correct but, things aren't making sense to me when trying to set the timing up with out running the engine. My mechanic friend is supposed to stop by Wednesday night and I'm trying to eliminate as many possible problems as I can. Does anyone else have only one mark on their pulley? Thanks Greg

Old style pulley had 3 marks, newer ones have 1.

 

[GILL]

Old style pulley had 3 marks, newer ones have 1.

Thanks OldMachinest! The center view of the single cut is not in my book. That should help! Greg

 

[GILL]

Thanks OldMachinest! The center view of the single cut is not in my book. That should help! Greg

It Lives! We adjusted the timing correctly and it started up and ran pretty good. I had mistakenly advanced it way too much. Next I will order a valve cover gasket and the valves will get adjusted. Thanks to all who offered their advice! Greg

 

[GILL]

It Lives! We adjusted the timing correctly and it started up and ran pretty good. I had mistakenly advanced it way too much. Next I will order a valve cover gasket and the valves will get adjusted. Thanks to all who offered their advice! Greg

Well, so far I have not adjusted the valves. My friend has multiple things come up and I may end up doing myself. Years ago I helped a guy do a Chrysler slant 6 but, I can't remember how to do this other than the gap between the stem and the rocker should be at it's widest and each valve should be closed completely. Then you adjust with feeler guage, etc. Got any clues? I've been digging around on the internet and not coming up with a good, clear tutorial. Another problem I see is that starting it has changed. It seems to start best if I let the starter stay engaged slightly longer than normal. Otherwise it will start and die while I fiddle with choke. I also need to open throttle more than before. The choke seems to be at the correct position with the lever pulled or relaxed. Anybody have any ideas? In the meantime I've looked at a New Holland machine and like the design although the newer stuff has more electrical gadgets than what I'm used to. The engine seems easier to get to. I'd be happy to listen to any and all comments on any of this. Thanks Greg

 

[GILL]

Well, so far I have not adjusted the valves. My friend has multiple things come up and I may end up doing myself. Years ago I helped a guy do a Chrysler slant 6 but, I can't remember how to do this other than the gap between the stem and the rocker should be at it's widest and each valve should be closed completely. Then you adjust with feeler guage, etc. Got any clues? I've been digging around on the internet and not coming up with a good, clear tutorial. Another problem I see is that starting it has changed. It seems to start best if I let the starter stay engaged slightly longer than normal. Otherwise it will start and die while I fiddle with choke. I also need to open throttle more than before. The choke seems to be at the correct position with the lever pulled or relaxed. Anybody have any ideas? In the meantime I've looked at a New Holland machine and like the design although the newer stuff has more electrical gadgets than what I'm used to. The engine seems easier to get to. I'd be happy to listen to any and all comments on any of this. Thanks Greg

One more thing. It tends to leak oil by the triangular plate by oil filter. There is an o-ring behind plate and I may be able to get one at NAPA. Anyone had any experiance with changing one? Thanks Greg

 

[Tazza]

One more thing. It tends to leak oil by the triangular plate by oil filter. There is an o-ring behind plate and I may be able to get one at NAPA. Anyone had any experiance with changing one? Thanks Greg

Neverworked on one, but id assume that the plate would have a gasket or O ring. RTV seems to seal up almost every leak if you can't get a gasket or O ring.
With the starting, every engine seems to have it's quirks to get a smooth start, the extra run time isn't something that is really unusual.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Neverworked on one, but id assume that the plate would have a gasket or O ring. RTV seems to seal up almost every leak if you can't get a gasket or O ring.
With the starting, every engine seems to have it's quirks to get a smooth start, the extra run time isn't something that is really unusual.

The replacement is a gasket if you get it for a passenger car. Works fine.
As for valve lash, turn the engine over by hand until both valves are closed on Compression stroke(1 cylinder at a time) and adjust. Lash specs are .008" intake, .018" exhaust.

 

[Hotrod1830]

The replacement is a gasket if you get it for a passenger car. Works fine.
As for valve lash, turn the engine over by hand until both valves are closed on Compression stroke(1 cylinder at a time) and adjust. Lash specs are .008" intake, .018" exhaust.

I just realized you were talking about the end plate on the oil pump. If you can get a new oring that would be best. Black RTV works, but you have to be carefull how much you use and dont let any ooze into the pump gear section.

 

[GILL]

I just realized you were talking about the end plate on the oil pump. If you can get a new oring that would be best. Black RTV works, but you have to be carefull how much you use and dont let any ooze into the pump gear section.

HR yes the end plate. I have a o-ring coming from Bobcat, $8.32 plus shipping to me. You are right about the oozing. I may try the valves but it's been about 0 to 15 above here and I'm going to wait for warmer weather on the valves. I don't feel I'll find much there anyway. Thanks Greg