631 right drive problem

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sterlclan

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FOUND IT!!!
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=7745
It worked a treat, flat plate the wear plates and you will need to touch up the rotating groups too, they won't take much as they are harder than the wear plates (swash plates).
Good luck with it, if you have any questions on it just yell. I have had one of these pumps open before, they are fairly simple but you need to keep them clean clean clean.
the drive sprockets on a 630 are bolted on hummin tight I used the drive to loosen them (put the wrench on start the machine and move the drive lever) lapping the plates was mostly time consuming KEEP IT CLEAN before assembly good luck.....Jeff
 

Tazza

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the drive sprockets on a 630 are bolted on hummin tight I used the drive to loosen them (put the wrench on start the machine and move the drive lever) lapping the plates was mostly time consuming KEEP IT CLEAN before assembly good luck.....Jeff
You were talking about the hydro pump or are you talking the brake discs? if its the brake, you will need to get these from your dealer. If its the pump, you can do it your self or buy them frm the dealer or a hydraulics supplier that handles vickers/eaton pumps. It should be a TA1919 pump.
 
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alexvbugman

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You were talking about the hydro pump or are you talking the brake discs? if its the brake, you will need to get these from your dealer. If its the pump, you can do it your self or buy them frm the dealer or a hydraulics supplier that handles vickers/eaton pumps. It should be a TA1919 pump.
Yes it's the hydro pump, the dealer wants $226.00 for each wafer plate, plus $65.00 for the gasket kit. Can I really sand these down, because the parts guy said NO. He says the tolerances are too close.
 

Tazza

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Yes it's the hydro pump, the dealer wants $226.00 for each wafer plate, plus $65.00 for the gasket kit. Can I really sand these down, because the parts guy said NO. He says the tolerances are too close.
Thats total BS, if the scoring is only slight, you can sand it out if you are willing to take the time. The brass thats bonded to the steel backing is like 3-4mm, you won't be removing anywhere near that amount of metal. As for tolerance, its all spring loaded, it will take up any wear or metal removed when you flatten the plates (which will only be a few thou anyway).
If the scoring is really deep you may indeed need new swash plates, but if they are shallow i would give it a go. Worst case, give it a try and see how long it takes to get the scratches removed, if they seem too deep for you to remove you may just want to get new plates.
When you replace these plates, you really should flat plate the rotating group too, it will only need a slight touch up but it really should be done if you put in new plates.
If you feel more comfortable just buying new plates thats also your choice as using sandpaper and glass really does take some time.......
 

sterlclan

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May 1, 2004
Messages
528
Thats total BS, if the scoring is only slight, you can sand it out if you are willing to take the time. The brass thats bonded to the steel backing is like 3-4mm, you won't be removing anywhere near that amount of metal. As for tolerance, its all spring loaded, it will take up any wear or metal removed when you flatten the plates (which will only be a few thou anyway).
If the scoring is really deep you may indeed need new swash plates, but if they are shallow i would give it a go. Worst case, give it a try and see how long it takes to get the scratches removed, if they seem too deep for you to remove you may just want to get new plates.
When you replace these plates, you really should flat plate the rotating group too, it will only need a slight touch up but it really should be done if you put in new plates.
If you feel more comfortable just buying new plates thats also your choice as using sandpaper and glass really does take some time.......
try it its borked now what do you have to loose it only takes a couple hours mine is 100 percent better now Jeff
 

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