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StuZ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2003
- Messages
- 133
If you have the outer 1/2 off ...... Press in on the piston/swivel and remove the big snap ring. Remove the piston and swivel. Take the bolt and washer off , then thread the BOLT ONLY back in all the way. then thread 2 1/4 " bolts into the sheave hub. Then install a "T " bar puller and tighten the puller till it comes off. It shouldn't be real tight if it had a leak. Good Luck !! I haven't seen any of these for years. Do you guys have horses ??
yes we do have horses. we tried a slide hammer, didnt work. thanks for the reply, hopefully it works
StuZ, Your right about the horses, if I didn't I would have bought a newer bobcat. Thanks for the reply. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I also own a "vintage" bobcat, my trusty 731, it has served me VERY well. It was my first bobcat. It cost me $5k, and i have had more than that out of it in work. It starts instantly, doesn't smoke, not bad for a 27 year old machine.
Hey. we got the piston out and the bolt, but we still cannot get the pulley off. how do you get it off, were trying to pull the engine and it wont come out unless thats off, were stumped write back soon! Thanks!
StuZ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2003
- Messages
- 133
You will need a puller that you can bolt to the pulley across the shaft, and push against the bolt you screwed back into the shaft. A front crankshaft puller will work if it's big enough. As you tighten the center bolt on the puller, you might have to tap on that bolt to break it loose.
We were able to get the pulley off, had to put pressure between the motor and pulley flang, while using a large hammer and punch on the bolt in the end of the crank shaft. Mine looked as though it had an adhessive on the tapered shaft.
Now We cannot get the Flywheel off the 610 wisconsin, help me out Thanks!
You will need to use a puller and maybe heat.
Attack it with penetrating oil, attach a puller to the fly wheel tighten it up quite tight and strike the forcing screw with a hammer, this sometimes helps shock the taper enough to get it to release. if it still refuses to let go, use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the flywheel just around the shaft then do the same as before, tighten up and strike the forcing screw. I have used this technique on some 9hp Wisconsin engines and other small engines.
Do NOT strike the fly wheel directally, they are made of cast iron, they can develop hair line cracks which when running can cause pieces to fly off at high speed.
I totally know how hard it can be to remove the fly wheel, they can be evil things! good luck.
