OldMachinist
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 24, 2006
- Messages
- 2,748
Just thought I'd post an update to the problem I was having with cavitation.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=3027
I removed the engine and almost all of the hydraulics except for the steel lines to the lift, tilt and aux. fittings. It is so much easier to work on with the engine out and the way it's designed it comes out pretty easy with the hydrostatic and hydraulic pumps attached.
I didn't find anything that made me think I had found the problem. All the orings where there and in good shape. The fittings where all tight. Removed and cleaned all the poppets and check valves. Flushed out the oil cooler and hydraulic tank. I didn't do anything to the hydraulic valve but remove and clean it externally and replace the vinyl caps over the detents.
The hydraulic pump seemed to turn a little free by hand so I put the seal kit in it and I needed pliers to turn it after that.
I reassembled it all with all new orings, fresh oil and three new hoses that required the engine out to change.
When I fired it up it was fixed.
Now if I had to guess what cured it I would say the seal kit for the pump. So even though it was putting out enough pressure the flow may have not been enough. I would recommend anyone with similar problems to have a pressure and flow test done at the dealer.
All together the parts and oil were only $163. I worked about 25 hours on it and that included cleaning 6 years of gunk under and behind everything.
.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=3027
I removed the engine and almost all of the hydraulics except for the steel lines to the lift, tilt and aux. fittings. It is so much easier to work on with the engine out and the way it's designed it comes out pretty easy with the hydrostatic and hydraulic pumps attached.
I didn't find anything that made me think I had found the problem. All the orings where there and in good shape. The fittings where all tight. Removed and cleaned all the poppets and check valves. Flushed out the oil cooler and hydraulic tank. I didn't do anything to the hydraulic valve but remove and clean it externally and replace the vinyl caps over the detents.
The hydraulic pump seemed to turn a little free by hand so I put the seal kit in it and I needed pliers to turn it after that.
I reassembled it all with all new orings, fresh oil and three new hoses that required the engine out to change.
When I fired it up it was fixed.
Now if I had to guess what cured it I would say the seal kit for the pump. So even though it was putting out enough pressure the flow may have not been enough. I would recommend anyone with similar problems to have a pressure and flow test done at the dealer.
All together the parts and oil were only $163. I worked about 25 hours on it and that included cleaning 6 years of gunk under and behind everything.
.