2004 T250 1.5” fitting to chaincase? Leak. Few questions.

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PITTM3RR

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May 31, 2019
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Hi guys, I just got this 2004 T250, it's been great apart from a few leaks that I'm taking care of, but that is as to be expected for the age. I got a good deal on it. Anyway, I replaced one hose and noticed today that this fitting is leaking where it goes into this case. Is this a threaded connection there into the case? I have my pipe wrench on, but it's not moving. Before I go whacking everything I Just want to be sure it's on threads. Also, Is there a seal back there? Can I put sealant there if there isn't one!? Thanks!
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flyerdan

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How do we add photos?!
I fixed your picture links, basically any formatting or html stuff requires coding, like you were writing a web page in notepad.
Is the leak between the pump body and the fitting? It could be one that has an O-ring behind it that's got a tear. Rather than a pipe wrench, I'd take the hose off and get on it with a box end wrench.
Edit: ok, a box end won't fit, can you get on it with an open end and try tightening it? It looks like the type of fitting that has an o-ring with a big hex nut that seals it. If it's what I think it is, the fitting itself will remain stationary and the hex part will move toward the pump where it should compress the missing o-ring. Those type of fitting aren't generally installed overly tight.
 
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PITTM3RR

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My apologies, this forum is a different format than I'm used to! It's leaking at the connection w the save yes, trouble is I can't get the hose lose, the whole assembly has play. Am I being too gentle? I'm used to working on bmw. I'm trying to get a wrench on the hose and the fitting to break them away from each other.
 

flyerdan

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My apologies, this forum is a different format than I'm used to! It's leaking at the connection w the save yes, trouble is I can't get the hose lose, the whole assembly has play. Am I being too gentle? I'm used to working on bmw. I'm trying to get a wrench on the hose and the fitting to break them away from each other.
Yes, if the whole thing is moving you need to tighten the jam nut against the pump so the hose can be removed from the fitting.
On the plus side, everything looks clean and corrosion free so it should come apart with no problems.
 
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PITTM3RR

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Yes, if the whole thing is moving you need to tighten the jam nut against the pump so the hose can be removed from the fitting.
On the plus side, everything looks clean and corrosion free so it should come apart with no problems.
OK, I will go outside and work on it, I just don't like stressing everything under all that tension but I guess that's what needs done! I'll try to tighten the fitting to the case first. Also is there a way for me to edit posts? I'm not seeing much along the lines of the menu once something is posted.
 

flyerdan

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OK, I will go outside and work on it, I just don't like stressing everything under all that tension but I guess that's what needs done! I'll try to tighten the fitting to the case first. Also is there a way for me to edit posts? I'm not seeing much along the lines of the menu once something is posted.
It shouldn't take much to get it apart, but it does look like a two wrench job. You might have to grind down an Harbor Freight cheapie if the open end wants to span the two hex parts, can't tell how much clearance there is there. Once the hose is off, back off the jam nut and the fitting should only be finger tight.
There isn't an edit option, best advice it to use the preview button first. If anything gets through that needs fixed, just mention it in passing and one of us will be along to sort it. In the edit mode it shows how you intended to write it so we can add the paragraphs and linefeeds and take out the ^E$%Qs that sometimes take the place of apostrophes.
 
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PITTM3RR

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It shouldn't take much to get it apart, but it does look like a two wrench job. You might have to grind down an Harbor Freight cheapie if the open end wants to span the two hex parts, can't tell how much clearance there is there. Once the hose is off, back off the jam nut and the fitting should only be finger tight.
There isn't an edit option, best advice it to use the preview button first. If anything gets through that needs fixed, just mention it in passing and one of us will be along to sort it. In the edit mode it shows how you intended to write it so we can add the paragraphs and linefeeds and take out the ^E$%Qs that sometimes take the place of apostrophes.
Ok so I got it off w a bit of leverage. The oring was shot you were correct! I replaced it w a nitrile (Buna) o ring and all was good for about 2 hrs. Then I noticed fluid in the dirt. I thought it was a new leak but when I popped the cab it's the same thing. I think it's coming from the JiC fitting this time not the o ring. This thing is killing me. I've not been able to go for more than two hours at a time before having to refill about a gallon of fluid. I don't want to break it. Is this normal for these?
 
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PITTM3RR

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Ok so I got it off w a bit of leverage. The oring was shot you were correct! I replaced it w a nitrile (Buna) o ring and all was good for about 2 hrs. Then I noticed fluid in the dirt. I thought it was a new leak but when I popped the cab it's the same thing. I think it's coming from the JiC fitting this time not the o ring. This thing is killing me. I've not been able to go for more than two hours at a time before having to refill about a gallon of fluid. I don't want to break it. Is this normal for these?
Just want to update this. I got it about 5MM more by leverage, but wasn't quite enough. It does hold when hot and drips after cooling a little. I've ordered a crows foot 1 1/2", 1/2 drive wrench head. I'll break it all down when that arrives and also use a flaretite if necessary. I'll report back! Thanks
 
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PITTM3RR

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Just want to update this. I got it about 5MM more by leverage, but wasn't quite enough. It does hold when hot and drips after cooling a little. I've ordered a crows foot 1 1/2", 1/2 drive wrench head. I'll break it all down when that arrives and also use a flaretite if necessary. I'll report back! Thanks
Ok hoping for a little more help. First of all, I solidified the leak mentioned earlier. Tight and good. Cleaned the hell out of it and re-inspected. Found 2 more leaks. 1. Is from the large 1.5" hose that goes to the right drive motor from that hydraulic gear pump I posted above. It's leaking at the compression sleeve part of the line, flows down the line and drips every two seconds. 2. Is from what I think is the low pressure line at the back of the gear pump. I'm getting a weak right drive, cavitation or "feed back" ONLY in the right side drive motor operation (same side as leaky hose) and what looks like foam? In the reservoir. This is only after hot long use. My plan is to remove right track, replace the drive hose, change bearing fluid and seal the low pressure leak. Should that fix my issue or weaker, cavitating right motor and pump noice? It's subtle and sporadic w the right control but I can tell. Lastly, I want to do case train filters. Does anyone know the thread pitch so I can order caps for the lines while working on them!? Thanks
 

SkidRoe

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Ok hoping for a little more help. First of all, I solidified the leak mentioned earlier. Tight and good. Cleaned the hell out of it and re-inspected. Found 2 more leaks. 1. Is from the large 1.5" hose that goes to the right drive motor from that hydraulic gear pump I posted above. It's leaking at the compression sleeve part of the line, flows down the line and drips every two seconds. 2. Is from what I think is the low pressure line at the back of the gear pump. I'm getting a weak right drive, cavitation or "feed back" ONLY in the right side drive motor operation (same side as leaky hose) and what looks like foam? In the reservoir. This is only after hot long use. My plan is to remove right track, replace the drive hose, change bearing fluid and seal the low pressure leak. Should that fix my issue or weaker, cavitating right motor and pump noice? It's subtle and sporadic w the right control but I can tell. Lastly, I want to do case train filters. Does anyone know the thread pitch so I can order caps for the lines while working on them!? Thanks
Here is a thread chart for pretty much any fitting you will run into in inch sizes fluid connectors:
Image result for jic thread chart
The Dash sizes on the left of the chart represent the size of the fitting/tube/hose in 1/16". So -02 = 1/8" (or 2/16").
Hope this helps - SR
 
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