2002 463 axle bearing/seal replacement

[cl55953]

Anybody have a recommendation besides the dealership in North Carolina that could handle this repair?

 

[mmsllc]

Most of the guys on here do most of their own work. If in doubt, they're are also real bobcat repair mechanics that help out a $hit ton when in doubt. From what I've been reading on here, you can replace the wheel seals without removing the axles & all that stuff. It may not be the case for you, but if you jack under each wheel, just check for movement on each wheel. You are looking to see if there is any movement (at all) when pulling out of pushing in on each axle. Fairly simple check.

 

[cl55953]

Most of the guys on here do most of their own work. If in doubt, they're are also real bobcat repair mechanics that help out a $hit ton when in doubt. From what I've been reading on here, you can replace the wheel seals without removing the axles & all that stuff. It may not be the case for you, but if you jack under each wheel, just check for movement on each wheel. You are looking to see if there is any movement (at all) when pulling out of pushing in on each axle. Fairly simple check.

I do most of my own work, but their is some end-play on the right rear wheel, were the seal has gone bad. I am assuming this is why. Can anyone offer some step by step guidance to replace the inner and outer bearing/races? Really my only main concern is working inside the chain case and removing the races. They only tool I wont have is the puller for the wheel hub, I have seen some people use bottle jack?

 

[Bobcatdan]

I do most of my own work, but their is some end-play on the right rear wheel, were the seal has gone bad. I am assuming this is why. Can anyone offer some step by step guidance to replace the inner and outer bearing/races? Really my only main concern is working inside the chain case and removing the races. They only tool I wont have is the puller for the wheel hub, I have seen some people use bottle jack?

Personally never did one, but I see it as big job as the machine will need a major gutting. The control vavle is mounted over the chaincase so that would have to come out to get into the chaincase. From there it should be pretty standard Bobcat chaincase repair. If you want to tackle it, I can go into more.

 

[SkidRoe]

I do most of my own work, but their is some end-play on the right rear wheel, were the seal has gone bad. I am assuming this is why. Can anyone offer some step by step guidance to replace the inner and outer bearing/races? Really my only main concern is working inside the chain case and removing the races. They only tool I wont have is the puller for the wheel hub, I have seen some people use bottle jack?

There is only one cover on top of the chain case, and it does not run back as far as the control valve, so you should not need to take the valve off.
If you are pulling the entire axle out to replace both bearings, you can leave the hub on the axle. The hub only needs to come off if you are changing the seal only.
HTH - SR

 

[mmsllc]

There is only one cover on top of the chain case, and it does not run back as far as the control valve, so you should not need to take the valve off.
If you are pulling the entire axle out to replace both bearings, you can leave the hub on the axle. The hub only needs to come off if you are changing the seal only.
HTH - SR

Any end play means that axle will need new bearing & will have to come apart to accommodate that job. If you are doing even one position, I'd suggest pulling them all apart; to better ensure you will not need to redo the job later on. Just my opinion, but I have never been a fan of double - work / redo jobs / comebacks.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Any end play means that axle will need new bearing & will have to come apart to accommodate that job. If you are doing even one position, I'd suggest pulling them all apart; to better ensure you will not need to redo the job later on. Just my opinion, but I have never been a fan of double - work / redo jobs / comebacks.

I agree with doining double work sucks. now if you are goining to keep it. it should be said that unit is small enough that seperatining main frame from chain case. is pretty easy . givining you full access to every thing in there. and you should never have to be in their again. brgs and races can be sourced locally for a 1/4 of the price. chains as well. pay attention for any cracks around drive motor mountining bolts prone to crack here. if cracked drill a hole a 1/4 inch from end of crack and weld em up. build youre case. stick main frame on.

 

[SkidRoe]

I agree with doining double work sucks. now if you are goining to keep it. it should be said that unit is small enough that seperatining main frame from chain case. is pretty easy . givining you full access to every thing in there. and you should never have to be in their again. brgs and races can be sourced locally for a 1/4 of the price. chains as well. pay attention for any cracks around drive motor mountining bolts prone to crack here. if cracked drill a hole a 1/4 inch from end of crack and weld em up. build youre case. stick main frame on.

Smallie - I was thinking that, too. There is not much holding the chain case to the frame on these machines: Mounting bolts, control valve bolts, motor covers & hoses, and I think that is about it. Is there anything I missed? Cheers - SR

 

[pwrwlz1k]

I do most of my own work, but their is some end-play on the right rear wheel, were the seal has gone bad. I am assuming this is why. Can anyone offer some step by step guidance to replace the inner and outer bearing/races? Really my only main concern is working inside the chain case and removing the races. They only tool I wont have is the puller for the wheel hub, I have seen some people use bottle jack?

i fabricated my own but mainly a 3 jaw puller and alot of heat to the hub will do but to get the inner bearings done you need to go into the chain case to remove one bolt holding the axle in.