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General Skidsteer & Technical Topics
Construction & Landscaping
Rough and final grading
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<blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 15626" data-attributes="member: 307"><p>I just use a home made water level.</p><p>Take a 5 gal plastic bucket, drill a hole in the side, down at the bottom that a tire valve stem will fit in. Install the stem with silicone around the base to make sure it seals.</p><p>Remove the valve core. Now attach a 3/8" clear vynyl hose over the other end of the valve stem and clamp it on. The hose needs to be long enough that you can place the pail in the middle of your project and reach the edges with the other end.</p><p>Fill the pail with water and let it run out the hose until you have the air purged. Plug the end of the hose. </p><p>Now attach the out side hose end to a 1" x 2" 8 ft long, with the plug at the top end of the board.</p><p>Top the pail up with water if necessary and place it in the middle of your job site on top of something so the top of the water level is about waist high.</p><p> Stand your 1 by 2 on end and remove the plug. The water in the hose will equalize with the water level in the pail.</p><p>Mark the board 0 at that height. </p><p>Now as you walk around the job site if the water rises above 0 , you are going below grade, and vice versa. Plug the end of the hose when your done making your checks, to be sure you don't lose any water.</p><p>Its not technically perfect as the water in the pail lowers a tiny amount as you fill more length of hose. (important not to use to large of diameter or hose) Cost less the $30 for mine with 75' of hose.</p><p>Here is a link to one with pictures.</p><p><a href="http://www.buildeazy.com/fp_waterlevel.html" target="_blank">http://www.buildeazy.com/fp_waterlevel.html</a></p><p>Ken</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skidsteer.ca, post: 15626, member: 307"] I just use a home made water level. Take a 5 gal plastic bucket, drill a hole in the side, down at the bottom that a tire valve stem will fit in. Install the stem with silicone around the base to make sure it seals. Remove the valve core. Now attach a 3/8“ clear vynyl hose over the other end of the valve stem and clamp it on. The hose needs to be long enough that you can place the pail in the middle of your project and reach the edges with the other end. Fill the pail with water and let it run out the hose until you have the air purged. Plug the end of the hose. Now attach the out side hose end to a 1” x 2” 8 ft long, with the plug at the top end of the board. Top the pail up with water if necessary and place it in the middle of your job site on top of something so the top of the water level is about waist high. Stand your 1 by 2 on end and remove the plug. The water in the hose will equalize with the water level in the pail. Mark the board 0 at that height. Now as you walk around the job site if the water rises above 0 , you are going below grade, and vice versa. Plug the end of the hose when your done making your checks, to be sure you don't lose any water. Its not technically perfect as the water in the pail lowers a tiny amount as you fill more length of hose. (important not to use to large of diameter or hose) Cost less the $30 for mine with 75' of hose. Here is a link to one with pictures. [URL]http://www.buildeazy.com/fp_waterlevel.html[/URL] Ken [/QUOTE]
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